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New clutch, New slave and master, car won't go into gear/soft pedal

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lowered02eclipse

Probationary Member
9
0
Dec 22, 2017
sun city, California
Im pretty stuck right now and haven't got help from the 3g eclipse eclipse forum.

I have an 02 eclipse rs 4g64

I recently installed an ACT Mb1-xtss clutch and act throw out bearing. I can't put the car in gear while running. I didn't put the disc in the wrong way as I had a reference picture that it was in the right way.

I did get the stock flywheel turned for the first time and not sure how much they took off.

I've replaced master and slave cylinder and checked for leaks through the lines and found nothing.

I bled the slave using a tube to a bottle and the fluid had no air bubbles so im lost.

It seems like the clutch fork isn't pushing the pressure plates fingers enough to disengage the clutch.

The last clutch I had installed was an exedy and it was also very squishy pedal feel but I was able to drive it around at least. The only option right now that I have is getting a longer slave cylinder rod? And help would definitely be appreciated.
 
I know nothing about 3G's. If this was a 2G I would suspect your problem is most likely caused by the material removed from the resurfacing of the flywheel & the geometry changes of the friction surface to the postion of the pivot ball folcrum point. I'd ask if the clutch fork was centered, or little off towards the drivers side (because the tranny is on the passenger side) as it sticks ot the access hole in the bellhousing. Is the clutch fork positioned too far off center towards the passenger side & bottoming out against the access hole before it was able to achieve full range of motion? If it is bottoming out then you'd need to shim the pivot ball to restore the mechanical geometry & get the clutch fork back into the proper position of being more towards the drivers side. Anyway, I would not start buy things until I had identified the cause of the problem. At this point the tranny is going to have to come back out no matter what & you should prepare to pull the tranny before doing anything else. I do not think buy another clutch will fix your problem. Best of luck.
 
As Paul stated, you need to measure that step. Accurately. Got a Horror Fright Tool store nearby? Get a digital caliper, 6 inch is the common size, about $10-$20. Generally you would use the tail end rod to extend down to the second surface. It should be able to switch between reading in metric (mm) and SAE (inches) by pushing a button.

But first, get a straight edge and check that machined surface for flatness. Tool store if you don't have something that will work. You want an edge that will reach from one outer edge to the opposite side, over the crank area. Or close to the length. A little shorter would work, just offset a little from the center of the crank hole so the edge is covering the machined surface.

Shine a flashlight on one side of the edge, and see how much light leaks under it. If you see the same amount across it, it's probably flat. If you see an increasing amount as it gets closer to the crank hole, it's NOT flat. It MUST be flat. The pressure plate, disc, and flywheel surfaces all have to have flat areas that match and stack together. That is how power is transferred between them, and any unflat areas will be a weakness, and also cause weird engagement/disengagement symptoms.
 
dustyboner,
that's an excellent article! That should be a sticky post.

Paul,
you advise against using a caliper, but no explanation why. Properly used, it is just as accurate as a dial indicator for most applications, and is just an all-around better tool due to cost and more uses. Yeah, I skimped on detailing how to properly use it for depth measurement. (has to be vertical, no angle, since that will change the reading, and make multiple readings at each spot to see if you are doing it correctly. That bar shown in the article needs to be very precise to get consistent readings) Mostly, I suggested it to back up your suggestion that he needs to measure the step, and to give him an option to do it at home that won't be excessively expensive.
My real point was to get him to check for flatness of the clutch surface. If that is not flat, the step dimension means nothing. It has to be checked FIRST, since it is being used as the reference point. His symptoms were similar to mine, which is why I bothered to post to his question.
I'll see if I can get a measurement off that bad flywheel later today, for illustration.
 
dustyboner,
that's an excellent article! That should be a sticky post.

Paul,
you advise against using a caliper, but no explanation why. Properly used, it is just as accurate as a dial indicator for most applications, and is just an all-around better tool due to cost and more uses. Yeah, I skimped on detailing how to properly use it for depth measurement. (has to be vertical, no angle, since that will change the reading, and make multiple readings at each spot to see if you are doing it correctly. That bar shown in the article needs to be very precise to get consistent readings) Mostly, I suggested it to back up your suggestion that he needs to measure the step, and to give him an option to do it at home that won't be excessively expensive.
My real point was to get him to check for flatness of the clutch surface. If that is not flat, the step dimension means nothing. It has to be checked FIRST, since it is being used as the reference point. His symptoms were similar to mine, which is why I bothered to post to his question.
I'll see if I can get a measurement off that bad flywheel later today, for illustration.
You're right I didn't explain. You already answered. It has to be vertical. I've never gotten repeatable results with a caliper. So throw precision out the window. I have gotten consistent repeatable results with a depth mic. The machine shops I've been to didn't blink when I asked them to hand me a depth mic
 
personally i think its better to just use a aluminum flywheel because the friction disk can be replaced when you change the clutch. That way you know it has the correct step and don't have to worry about some dumbass messing it up.


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before someone points it out, this flywheel isn't for a dsm
 
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