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2G Fixing up a 95 Gsx - tips/advice?

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Sephent

Proven Member
61
2
Feb 18, 2016
Medford, Oregon
Hey all. So I just picked myself up a 95 gsx. Only info I got was "it was running fine. Then it died and will not start" Claims it would crank but not start and suggested fuel pump. Did not sound like it has been sitting for long, but tags have been expired since 2009.
I was just curious of any tips on what to check and replace overall for a car like this? I have read and will continue to read threads on similar issues. Sounds like crank sensor and cam sensors going bad trigger the auto shutoff relay. But if it is suggested to take off the head and investigate things, etc. Just let me know. I think I am going to change the oil and put fresh gas in before any startup attempt is made.

Just hoping to get some advice with this car on what to look for overall :) it is my dream car and glad I finally got it. Now time to make sure nothing is half assed on it. Only 90k miles also.

Thank you in advance. And as stated before. I know I have a lot more research and reading to do. Which I plan on doing thoroughly..
 

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youll definitely want to check all the timing components and make sure its still in time and not jumped. would also want to check and see if its getting spark to rule that out as well.
 
Check these and report back:

- Engine mechanical timing
- Compression
- Spark
- Fuel

After those you can start looking at those sensors you mention and a few others that will cause a no start.

Also update your profile with mods so we know what is all done to the car. Reason I ask is I see the stock MAF and the BOV not being recirculated. That won't cause the no start but its things like that make me believe there could be an accumulation of things not done "right".
 
thank you. i will report back with all that info. the mods i am going to try to get a list of today, as i was not given a list and need to see what all was done, to check if it was done right.. the guy i got the car from said it has been sitting for about a year and he obtained it from a tweaker... which explains why it looks like it was done by a highschool kid... should be fun :p
 
Second checking timing first to ensure no bent valves. A leakdown tester is a quick way to test without compromising mechanical stuff, but there are a lot of methods.

Check fuel pump, filter, verify injectors pulsing, verify ignition system components and spark.

Start with all that and see where you're at.
 
okay i see that. the MDP sensor.. i can not find a replacement MDP sensor anywhere... or a replacement plug that goes into it (looks like someone busted the plug and tried to just wire it straight up). any suggestions? i know a lot of people just replaced the MDP sensor with a MAP sensor and adapter for tuning purposes. but i dont need that since its a 95
 
There's a place in PA called DSMpartout that has a lot of used DSM stuff. They have a website and I believe they ship, you might be able to find something like that there. After you fix the sensor you need to recirculate that BOV to the large opening on the intake tube (as someone mentioned above). You'll probably have to lose the horn shaped end on the BOV so you can attach a hose to it.
 
Get the correct oil dipstick so you can verify you have the correct amount of oil.
 
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The mdp sensor is for emissions verification by the ecu, it wont affect the car starting or running. It might be way out of your budget for time and money but if that was mine, I would pull the engine and transmission and start with cleaning the heck out of the engine bay and then go through the engine and if its ok, clean and reseal it with new gaskets and seals, then pressure wash the transmission carefully so as not to get any water in it, then I would start prepping the body for new paint and get the engine and transmission back in and get it painted, that would be my immediate plan of action. The good thing is that it looks rust free, but that thing has definitely been sitting since at least 2009 if not longer.
 
the oil dipstick TUBE is wrong? geeze.. alright ill look into that.. just ordered a MDP sensor with pigtail plug to fix that. does anyone know if that BOV is a knock off tial or something? it looks like TIAL but no markings on it
 
Not tube, my fault. I meant actual dipstick. The one in there seams to be one meant for a transmission, "says ATF". Get a nice OEM one. The "tube" is fine!! Forgive me, I have been sick since Christmas, just got over it!! LOL
 
Looking at those pictures, you have some work ahead of you... Did you get a chance to check what I suggested above?

You will also need to get that BOV recirculated. If you do get it started, there will be a ton of unmetered air entering the engine with that recirculation opening on the intake pipe wide open. I would just get an oem 1g/2g BOV in there with the tube.
 
Yeah I ordered the testers to check everything. I will pull up a diagram for the wga vacuum lines and get that fixed before I attempt to start the engine.
I plan on squirting some oil down the spark plug holes to lube stuff up. Check timing. Do the compression leak down test. Fresh oil and filter. All that fun stuff
 
While I am waiting on a couple parts, I went ahead and took apart the driverside door since the latch assembly was not springing open when I opened the door, making it so it would catch the striker on the car when I tried closing the door. Here are some pics. Any idea how to fix this? Not sure if it is missing a spring somewhere or if I just need a new one (unfortunately expensive).
 

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Looks like my turbo has seen better days... Curious if my old turbo from my srt4 neon would fit in this since it's a mitsubishi turbo...
 

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Doh. Just found out that the fuel pump on the 95 gsx does NOT prime until you start cranking the engine. Weird... Well I already ordered a 190hp wally pump and rewire kit. Hopefully the injectors are fine as I am not planning on upgrading them, is why I didn't go with the 255hp pump because that causes issues unless you get bigger injectors and a tune. Just got my compression tester/leak down tester and fuel pressure tester. New sparkplugs and wires. And ordered a new latch for that door and an ac belt tensioner (previous owner removed the tensioner and ac belt /sigh). Hopefully it stops raining the next couple days so I can do the compression test and what not. The mpi/fuel pump relay clicks when I turn the key on so that's good. Hopefully the cam sensor is fine as I heard that causes a lot of issues and is a biiiitch to get to... Timing looks dead on so that's good. Just getting everything prepared based on what I was told was wrong with the car before I try to crank it over... I did notice none of the interior lights turn on (even when I flip the switches for the review mirror lights) and the switch for the sunroof does nothing... So that's next on the list to figure out... Going to try to test all the relays in the fuse box with a multimeter. Any tips on this? Thanks for all your help already. I'll continue to update

Edit: oh, and I fixed that sensor on the intake and recirculated the bov with the air intake as suggested :)
 
Doh. Just found out that the fuel pump on the 95 gsx does NOT prime until you start cranking the engine. Weird... Well I already ordered a 190hp wally pump and rewire kit. Hopefully the injectors are fine as I am not planning on upgrading them, is why I didn't go with the 255hp pump because that causes issues unless you get bigger injectors and a tune. Just got my compression tester/leak down tester and fuel pressure tester. New sparkplugs and wires. And ordered a new latch for that door and an ac belt tensioner (previous owner removed the tensioner and ac belt /sigh). Hopefully it stops raining the next couple days so I can do the compression test and what not. The mpi/fuel pump relay clicks when I turn the key on so that's good. Hopefully the cam sensor is fine as I heard that causes a lot of issues and is a biiiitch to get to... Timing looks dead on so that's good. Just getting everything prepared based on what I was told was wrong with the car before I try to crank it over... I did notice none of the interior lights turn on (even when I flip the switches for the review mirror lights) and the switch for the sunroof does nothing... So that's next on the list to figure out... Going to try to test all the relays in the fuse box with a multimeter. Any tips on this? Thanks for all your help already. I'll continue to update

Edit: oh, and I fixed that sensor on the intake and recirculated the bov with the air intake as suggested :)
Incorrect on the fuel pump. You don't need a tune or injectors for any pump. A bigger pump may over run the stock fuel pressure regulator causing higher than stock fuel pressures. Fuel pressure needs to be consistent.
 
Any update on the tests?

Did a LeakDown test. all cylinders held pressure good besides some from a crack on the right side of my valve cover around a bolt that was over tightened (i put some gasket sealer over the crack as a bandaid while i look for a decently priced valve cover. which everyone wants $100+ for)... timing looked dead on. replaced the spark plugs and wires and cranked over the engine. engine cranked, sounded like it was getting spark fine, just no fuel. the fuel pump relay clicks but i tried to listen for the pump while cranking and i could not hear anything.
i ordered a new pump and rewire kit, which should be here in a day or two hopefully. when i pulled everything for the stock pump so it is ready when i get the new one in, there was some fuel that leaked out from the lines. i am guessing from the line getting pressurized when cranking. is this still possible with a bad pump? (i know i was supposed to unplug the relay for the fuel and crank over the engine to depressurize the lines beforehand, but i was curious). i have a fuel pressure gauge but could not for the life of me find the valve on my car to test the pressure...
 
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