sounds like youre going to have to bite the bullet and drill/ retap the hole

its gonna be a bi*** to try and drill it out with the broken extractor in it.
a picture would be helpful

dustyboner said:

its gonna be a bi*** to try and drill it out with the broken extractor in it.
a picture would be helpful

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Here’s a picture

Trying to just drill the whole thing out and yeah it’s a pain. Anyone know if I can just melt this thing out or something

Drill it and see if you can save the thread, if not drill it next size up and tap fornthe new size and match the o2 housing hole

Ditto. Ive had to drill through the transmission fill plug that was like 4 inches long plus 2 different extractors.

Drill all the way through the bolt using a small left hand threaded drill bit, then progrssively work the hole larger with the next size bigger drill bit . usually the integrity of the stud breaks down after you drill a hole in it, so the second hole you drill ends up removing the remnants of the broken bolt or stud

i would get a small bit and drill around the extractor then take a dremmel and grind out the material between the holes. then take a nail or punch or whatever and put the tip where the green dot is in the pic, and hit it with a hammer to pop the extractor out.
once the broken extractor is out, you can drill it out and retap easily

Weld a nut to it then let it fully cool before you try to remove it. Might take a few nuts. I don't know why people bother with ez outs. I've never had one not break off, but then again, I'm in the salt belt.

My process is usually with tig, letting it heat soak real good, using 312 filler rod. Standard MIG works too.

Here’s an update guys, I managed to remove the bolt and now I need to drill and tap. 3/8 is too small and the next drill bit I have is 1/2 does anyone think that’s too big? Take a look at the hole it got a little wonky from all this crap.

m10 x 1.25 is the spec on the original hole.
instead of tapping it, you could just put a nut on the back side

dustyboner said:

m10 x 1.25 is the spec on the original hole.
instead of tapping it, you could just put a nut on the back side

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Wow I’m glad I made this post I seriously didn’t even think about putting a nut. Thank you! Hopefully tomorrow I can get it all squared away. Any material I should stay away from when I get the new bolt? Like is zinc or steel better or something

You could always helicoil it back to the original size.

A timesert would work well, you should use a high grade bolt and nut, hardware store stuff will stretch and then break with the heat it will see.

motomattx said:

A timesert would work well, you should use a high grade bolt and nut, hardware store stuff will stretch and then break with the heat it will see.

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What grade? I’ve seen grade 8 and I think even 10 at my local hardware store

10 is what you what. I think, off the off the top of my head metrics are usually rated at 8.8 or 10.9. You want the 10.

techboy said:

10 is what you what. I think, off the off the top of my head metrics are usually rated at 8.8 or 10.9. You want the 10.

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and 12.9

Has anybody tried a rescue bit?


https://www.theoriginalrescuebit.com

No but I have a set of carbide burrs that I use on my dremel. I've cut through broken bolts and hardened pins with them. It seems similar to what you posted.

Easy outs do not work 99% of the time.......Its not worth the risk using them, when they snap your in for some shit

easy outs only work when the bolt isn't seized.

Dusty that just looks like a dremel drill attachment. Seems like the same solution as a good set of drill bits, but better if you had a very good dremel tool.

Use a grade 10 long bolt to go through the housing and use a nut on the other side. Dont bother trying to retap the housing. I'd use some locktite on the nut to make sure it doesn't back off on its own