The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

Mysterious Battery Drain

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BGSpyder

Probationary Member
25
0
Nov 22, 2002
Fort Worth, Texas
I think my power lock circuit is draining my battery.

Here’s brief background. After not driving car for a week (which is typical) it would not start up. So I jumped it, let the battery charge and thought all was well. Three days later, same thing. Now I’m thinking it’s my battery because it’s 7 years old, so I buy a new one (Optima yellow top). Everything seems ok, except my power locks don’t work (driver’s side switch, passenger’s side switch and keyless). There are no blown fuses so I figured I’d check into it later and just use the key for now. One week later same thing, the new battery is drained, no lights of any kind. This time I connect up my multi-meter and see there is only 3 volts across my battery. I jump it again and this time I start looking at the power lock system. I pull the 10A fuse on the driver’s side and measure the current (with the car still on). It’s 5 amps, I hit the lock switch and it goes to 0 amps, I hit the unlock switch and it stays at 5 amps. This seems high to me and it appears that a relay somewhere is stuck in the unlock position. I turn the car off and measure it again, now it’s pulling 2.5 amps.

Looking at the circuit diagrams, there appears to be 2 relays (drivers and passenger’s side) on the other side of that 10A fuse. But I can’t figure out where exactly in the car they are located. Are these in the ECU? Can anyone help me figure where to start in the power lock circuit to narrow this down?
 
Just out of curiousity did you by any chance short your altenator out? I had that issue while working on my car I grounded a wrench on my altenator, blew a bunch of fuses replaced them and figure all was well. Then realized whenever my car sits for a week or so my new optima is dead and realized it drains thru the altenator when its shut off. So replaced my altenator and all is good.
 
If it is my alternator it went on it's own. I wasn't working anywhere near it and didn't short anything out. There are no blown fuses at all. When I get time I'm going to let the battery charge some more just to verify that it is indeed holding a charge now.
 
I would check the electrical system. Including the new battery. I have seen new defective batteries. To find a short is to pull fuses and look when the short is eliminated. Then you can follow the short on that fuse. You can use an amp meter or just a test light.
 
I had the exact same thing happen to me it would be fine as long as I didn't have to use any accessories or the lights. It would sometimes last for a week sometimes a couple of days. It turned out my alternator was bad.
 
I pull the 10A fuse on the driver’s side and measure the current (with the car still on). It’s 5 amps, I hit the lock switch and it goes to 0 amps, I hit the unlock switch and it stays at 5 amps. This seems high to me and it appears that a relay somewhere is stuck in the unlock position. I turn the car off and measure it again, now it’s pulling 2.5 amps.

Looking at the circuit diagrams, there appears to be 2 relays (drivers and passenger’s side) on the other side of that 10A fuse. But I can’t figure out where exactly in the car they are located. Are these in the ECU? Can anyone help me figure where to start in the power lock circuit to narrow this down?
I assume you are measuring current from the battery? With car off and doors open 2.5A is about right for the interior lights. With doors closed you should have less than 50mA. Start by pulling those relays and repeat tests. Drivers side relay is in console beneath radio 2nd one from right. Passenger one is behind rear seatback just left of the keyless entry receiver.
 
My powerdrain was an aftermarket alarm someone had put in, that didnt work at all, it just drained power, it took me a month to figure it out.
 
I had the same problem with the locks and I pulled the fuse...problem solved...I haven't fixed the wiring issue yet but it's not like it a huge reach to lock the doors the old fasioned way.. I do think it's in the switch probally in the driver side door.
 
I have a similar battery drain going on with my 97 GSX, does your windows and fan blower work when its drained? I replaced my alternator with used one and I think thats still the problem. My power door locks don't work either. I would check the relays for the door locks. I am interested in your outcome.
 
I assume you are measuring current from the battery? With car off and doors open 2.5A is about right for the interior lights. With doors closed you should have less than 50mA. Start by pulling those relays and repeat tests. Drivers side relay is in console beneath radio 2nd one from right. Passenger one is behind rear seatback just left of the keyless entry receiver.

No, that was measured where I pulled the 10A power lock fuse. But I did have the door open. I was thinking about checking the current at the battery, but my multimeter is only rated up to 10A unfused (5A fused). Not being 100% sure what to expect I didn't want to risk damaging it without doing a little research first. Thanks for the feedback on the relay location too.

To answer the other questions, when the battery's drained, nothing works. No lights, no fan, instrument console, ect.... But when I have it on everything works except the power locks. I'm assuming my alternator is good, because the first time it drained my new Optima battery (and old battery for that matter) the battery did get charged up after running the car for a while and while running I get 13V accross the battery.

Thanks for all the feedback guys!
 
Update - I doubt it's my power locks now.

I jumped the car again and drove it around for 45 minutes. 90 minutes later the voltage accross the battery has dropped to 7.9 volts, not enough to start her up (i tried), but the interior lights still work. My plan is to check my grounds and if I don't find anything there take it to a shop somewhere and see if they can help track it down.
 
ive had the same "parasitic" draw issues with my car. it was the power lead to my eq for my stereo. also, the optima battery is garbage in my opinion. i switched to a interstate battery while trying to diagnose the problem...which stays charged for 2 weeks, while the poor asz optima would die in 2-3 days.
 
Here's the latest update. Turns out there were two probelms. The orginal problem was my power lock circuit constantly stuck in unlock and draining my battery, I measured 4.5A where the 10A fuse was with the car off and the door closed. So the power lock fuse is still pulled and I will start checking into that some more soon. The second was the Optima battery I got was defective and had a bad cell. So with it installed and the power lock fuse pulled it was still not holding a charge, which made the original problem hard to isolate. I got a new battery (replacement under warrently from Autozone) and I'm up and running as before, just minus power locks for now.

I'll post an update to what's causing my power lock issue when I track it down.
 
Hello,

I know it's been a while :D.. . But I am currently having this exact problem..

After doing the battery drain consumption test, I determined that the 10A Door Lock Fuse was consuming 230mAh, so I removed it temporarily.
But I'm trying to fix that problem, has anyone found the root cause of this issue? Any clue?
 
Mine never caused any drain issues that I knew of but they would randomly go off while driving like alot of other Dsm's. I just disconnected mine a long time ago and deal without them haha. I now use an Optima battery tender on my yellow top while always connected to my Dsm and absolutely love it! I hope you resolve the problems your having!
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top