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2G Out of fuel pump. Need suggestions

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I upgraded to the wally 520 and upgraded my feed line to -8 line from the pump
to the rail. This seems to have solved my fueling problem.
Nice!
The reason I asked was I read about someone pushing stock lines to over 700 to the ground with a Wally 450 and a Kenne Bell boost a pump.

For those still using the stock lines, use the Toyota seal: 23239-21010, it is the best option by far.

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The 450 has me at 37psi on a 76HTA using stock lines.
Thanks for the tip my friend!
 
That had to be Keltalon correct. He has changed that setup since with a -6 feed and eliminated the boost a pump.
Yeah, did @keltalon run completely stock fuel feed system lines from pump to rail and then an AFPR on the return?
Is the -6AN from pump to rail now or just from OE filter to rail? And what pump is he now running the Wally 450HP?
Any input is grately appreciated.
 
Yeah, did @keltalon run completely stock fuel feed system lines from pump to rail and then an AFPR on the return?
Is the -6AN from pump to rail now or just from OE filter to rail? And what pump is he now running the Wally 450HP?
Any input is grately appreciated.
He has a -6 feed pump to rail and I think stock feed return. He has an aftermarket fuel filter.I believe his fuel pump setup is totally different now. Hit him up on pm he usually watches the sight but he has not been to active. He ran stock lines for a long time using the 255 pump an AFPR in which he has made over 500whp or maybe even 600. There are Evo guys with the stock lines making over 500whp as well. I would hit him up! He may have his setup posted.
 
I'm maxing out a 37r with a single 450 and stock lines using e85. It's to the point that I adjust my boost level from upper 40s to the lower 50s based solely on outside temperature. Single pump with a BAP, 2150s, and a regulator is ALL you need to make power into the 700s on corn. Nothing else!

At first I was running out of fuel with it so figured I just maxed the 450 out, but then I learned of punching in the relief valve which made all the difference in the world. I later added a JMS boost-a-pump, and it sure did help to squeeze more out putting 18v to it, but the pump fried during highway pulls when I put 22v to it. The problem there was the few inch long wires Walbro put on there. So I dissected the burned out pump and wired 8 gauge directly to the inside of it, making it truly 8 gauge the entire way.

The common mistake I've seen over the years is people running out of fuel with 1 pump, then getting a second, then maybe a 3rd, when the relief valve was the issue the whole time. They'll add an inline pump, which obviously has no relief valve, and think ah yes, now I got enough pump, when in fact they did the whole time, the inline pump just picked up where the in-tank was bleeding off. Another is changing out the stock lines for -6, which is marginally larger and completely unnecessary. Completely.

If anyone's interested in the wiring or relief valve mod, I'm willing to share.
 
I'm maxing out a 37r with a single 450 and stock lines using e85. It's to the point that I adjust my boost level from upper 40s to the lower 50s based solely on outside temperature. Single pump with a BAP, 2150s, and a regulator is ALL you need to make power into the 700s on corn. Nothing else!

At first I was running out of fuel with it so figured I just maxed the 450 out, but then I learned of punching in the relief valve which made all the difference in the world. I later added a JMS boost-a-pump, and it sure did help to squeeze more out putting 18v to it, but the pump fried during highway pulls when I put 22v to it. The problem there was the few inch long wires Walbro put on there. So I dissected the burned out pump and wired 8 gauge directly to the inside of it, making it truly 8 gauge the entire way.

The common mistake I've seen over the years is people running out of fuel with 1 pump, then getting a second, then maybe a 3rd, when the relief valve was the issue the whole time. They'll add an inline pump, which obviously has no relief valve, and think ah yes, now I got enough pump, when in fact they did the whole time, the inline pump just picked up where the in-tank was bleeding off. Another is changing out the stock lines for -6, which is marginally larger and completely unnecessary. Completely.

If anyone's interested in the wiring or relief valve mod, I'm willing to share.
Any article on doing this mod (pics,)?
 
I'm maxing out a 37r with a single 450 and stock lines using e85. It's to the point that I adjust my boost level from upper 40s to the lower 50s based solely on outside temperature. Single pump with a BAP, 2150s, and a regulator is ALL you need to make power into the 700s on corn. Nothing else!

At first I was running out of fuel with it so figured I just maxed the 450 out, but then I learned of punching in the relief valve which made all the difference in the world. I later added a JMS boost-a-pump, and it sure did help to squeeze more out putting 18v to it, but the pump fried during highway pulls when I put 22v to it. The problem there was the few inch long wires Walbro put on there. So I dissected the burned out pump and wired 8 gauge directly to the inside of it, making it truly 8 gauge the entire way.

The common mistake I've seen over the years is people running out of fuel with 1 pump, then getting a second, then maybe a 3rd, when the relief valve was the issue the whole time. They'll add an inline pump, which obviously has no relief valve, and think ah yes, now I got enough pump, when in fact they did the whole time, the inline pump just picked up where the in-tank was bleeding off. Another is changing out the stock lines for -6, which is marginally larger and completely unnecessary. Completely.

If anyone's interested in the wiring or relief valve mod, I'm willing to share.
Please do. Thank you!
 
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