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Lifter Tick [merged] Revised lifters 3rd Gen Generation 3g

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95talontsi

20+ Year Contributor
275
0
Jun 29, 2002
Princeton, NJ_Montgomery
I am fixing my valve tix by taking out the lifters or the auto valve lash adjusters. I have the valves cover off, the engine is at top dead center and I am on 3# cylinder. I got instructions off the net, now with either a tool or a standard screw driver press down on the valve and remove the rocker arm then remove the lifter. Which then I will clean out.
The question is where do I push down, The valve has the spring around is and the metal cap on top of that( forget the name of that) where do I push down with out damaging anything, I will probably have to push a bit so I do not want to damage anything. please help?
 
Wow there is alot of info in this thread. My problem is I have a 4g64 spyder and cant find info on my lifters in here I dont know if my lifters are the same as the 4g63 motors or what. I was looking at parts dinosaur and found lifters for 5.95 each but dont know if that is what people are running or what they are doing for the 2.4's. I dont know the generations of these cars or anything just bought it as a daily driver(I thought it was going to be a good deal but already had to do a engine swap).

I know for the 4g63 motor people are recomending the 3g revised lifters, just wandering are these the same lifters I need?

I think these are the ones people are suggesting.
http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product157.html
 
Hey guys, I've searched on this forum and also dsmtalk, I've got a 93AWD with 61K on it. But unfortunately it was a rough 61K, looked like the oil had never been changed. When I got the car it had real bad lifter tick, the worst I'd ever heard. Took the head off and sent it to the machine shop, timing was off and bent some valves. So I had the head rebuilt, new valve stem seals, valves, lifters, springs, retainers and cams. After putting the motor back together (I bead blasted everything, cleaned and replaced all gaskets from the headgasket up.

Still getting lifter tick, Ive tried warming it up, driving the car around to see if they just need heated cycling of oil through the head, still ticking.

I apologize for the long post but I'm about to pull my hair out with this ticking. I flushed the motor three times when I first got it and have replaced the oil three times as well. Mobil1. I've been working on turbo imports and DSMs since 1999 and I've never had such a problem with lifters before.

Any advice would be very appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Get a new set of TopLine lifters off of ebay and just change them out. You don't have to take the head or the cams out. After you get the valve cover off, all it takes is a flat-head screw driver with a square shaft (Craftsman). Plenty of people have documented how to do it.

The only other thing I can say is... damn man, I wish you hadn't bead blasted stuff. Glass beads stick to oil, like to get lodged in passages, and instantly destroy bearing surfaces once they work loose again. It just takes 1 bead to kill a main bearing, so meticulous care must be exercised to clean every last one out before re-assembly. It's painstaking if glass beads were used and I just hope the machine shop that performed those services stand behind any possible liability that may arise if they used glass beads.. Walnut shells or charcoal are best for blasting engine parts because they dissolve in oil.
 
Get a new set of TopLine lifters off of ebay and just change them out. You don't have to take the head or the cams out. After you get the valve cover off, all it takes is a flat-head screw driver with a square shaft (Craftsman). Plenty of people have documented how to do it.

The only other thing I can say is... damn man, I wish you hadn't bead blasted stuff. Glass beads stick to oil, like to get lodged in passages, and instantly destroy bearing surfaces once they work loose again. It just takes 1 bead to kill a main bearing, so meticulous care must be exercised to clean every last one out before re-assembly. It's painstaking if glass beads were used and I just hope the machine shop that performed those services stand behind any possible liability that may arise if they used glass beads.. Walnut shells or charcoal are best for blasting engine parts because they dissolve in oil.

Same guy, under my buddys screenname. (J_Heath)

No, we beadblasted parts when disassembled. Then carb cleaner and industrial simple green and toothbrush cleaned everything and wiped them down clean. We are clean freaks so everything had to be cleaned up to as close to new as possiable. No beads or anything got in any parts when assembled. The lifters are brand new 3G revised lifters purchased brand new from a forum vendor along with cams, valve springs and retainers and ARP headstuds. I've got the valve cover off now inspecting the oil pressure regulator. Thats the only thing we didn't mess with. Maybe there is still gunk (burnt caked oil in it) besides that the only other thing I can think of is maybe the rockers are clogged where the pin hole that allows oil into the lifters may be clogged.

We beadblasted parts as in intakemanifold, CAS, and such, not the actual cylinder head or any parts that go into the cylinder head. The cylinder head we carb cleaned and scrapped all the remaining gunk out where even after hottanking there was still gunk left from the burnt oil from the abuse. Everything was cleaned extremly well and wiped and air pressure dried.

Im not a newb when it comes to assembling a motor.
 
i just recently started getting a bad ticking sound coming from the top of my valve cover, i have two videos one at initial startup where the ticking is more prevalent and one after it has had time to warm up when it isnt as bad but still bad

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/hH6GCaC1hgU?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/hH6GCaC1hgU?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ryEI34JDG34?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ryEI34JDG34?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>

what do you guys think, time for some new lifters?
 
I have had more than a few dsms in my time and I do balance shaft deletes to them all, if the car had lifter tick before the balance shaft delete, it didn't have it after the delete. The oil pressure gets raised and the lifters charge up with a little more oil and the tick goes away, at least that's my theory.
 
Adding to this thread in case an answer to this question helps anyone.

At low speed/pressure/flow, is it normal for 3g HLAs to pass inconsistent amounts of oil? Or for the head itself?

As a test, with about 100rpms of oil pump rotation, I see everything from jets of oil onto cam lobes to completely dry rocker tops. Kiggley regulator present. Will all HLAs flow the same at regular engine speeds?
 
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