The difference between 1.4 ohms and in spec is sometimes as simple as the way a person measures the resistance.

Put the 2 leads of the multimeter together and read the resistance. If it is not 0.0, that gives you an idea for how far the reading is off.

Now subtract that from your 1.4 ohm measured value, and that is closer to the actual resistance.

What makes you think you need to replace the coil, aside from that reading?

You only need to post about it 1 time. Posting about the same problem in multiple places is likely to get your posts ignored or deleted.

brads said:

The difference between 1.4 ohms and in spec is sometimes as simple as the way a person measures the resistance.

Put the 2 leads of the multimeter together and read the resistance. If it is not 0.0, that gives you an idea for how far the reading is off.

Now subtract that from your 1.4 ohm measured value, and that is closer to the actual resistance.

What makes you think you need to replace the coil, aside from that reading?

You only need to post about it 1 time. Posting about the same problem in multiple places is likely to get your posts ignored or deleted.

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Rebuilt the head. Pulled the evap solenoids. Car wont run. It fires up and dies. I can keep it going with some throttle but the RPMS jump up and down. I also doesn't sound "right" when it's running.

Artago said:

Rebuilt the head. Pulled the evap solenoids. Car wont run. It fires up and dies. I can keep it going with some throttle but the RPMS jump up and down. I also doesn't sound "right" when it's running.

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Did you do all of that because it wasn't running right? Or are you saying it isn't running right since you rebuilt the head?

I'd check your ignition timing first. If it is wrong, that isn't due to a bad coil. That is something else in the system.

And also make sure your timing belt was installed properly. If the timing belt was installed wrong with cams a tooth or more off, it can cause bad running.

brads said:

Did you do all of that because it wasn't running right? Or are you saying it isn't running right since you rebuilt the head?

I'd check your ignition timing first. If it is wrong, that isn't due to a bad coil. That is something else in the system.

And also make sure your timing belt was installed properly. If the timing belt was installed wrong with cams a tooth or more off, it can cause bad running.

Click to expand...

I seized a valve and had the head rebuilt. I was running like crap before due to a rocker being thrown out (probably cause a valve seized and threw a rocker arm).

I've checked the spark plugs, wires, coils pack, CAS and CPS. All check out.

I have a 2g CAS under the cam gear. I thought those were not adjustable. Hence, no base timing adjustment. Is that correct or am I wrong?

Here is my crank alignment at TDC. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/crank-timing-correct.519567/

Looks ok to me. Thoughts?

I pulled the valve cover today and the lifter not fully hard. Some of them are compressible when I push down on them. Shouldn't these be 100% rock hard? I installed them myself. Bled, cleaned, bled again, and installed. I'm concerned because I thought those should "pump up" when cranking the motor.

Finally, I pulled all my EVAP equipment while the head was out. Now it wont idle. I assume I need to adjust the biss screw to give it more air so it idles? Correct?

when your dealing with that low a resistance, it normal to be off by a up to 1/2 an ohm. it really depends on the DMM and the condition of the probes. With new probes your reading would most likely come down a few points.
If your getting 1.4 ohms on each coil, they are good.