All, I am hoping for some help! I have been at this for two days straight and still have no solution. I bought my GSX originally with a short to ground that was blowing the ignition fuse. It was the noise capacitor, removed it, car started & ran, and had no parasitic draw originally (I tested at the negative battery cable via test light. Now I am having this problem…

The door ajar light on the dash and reading/dome lights on the rear view mirror stay on even with everything closed. They go off if I remove the room lamp fuse but I am trying to fix the actual problem. Based on a search, I have tried all of the following below with no luck! Here is what I have done to try to diagnose…

1) replaced both driver and passenger door switches

2) tried to manually "jump" the trunk connector wires (+ to -) just in case the trunk switch was faulty. No luck.

3) Unplugged and reinstalled ECU

4) No here is where things get weird. I unplugged both door switches and the truck switch to measure the voltage at each point. I am getting between 10-11 volts at the driver door switch and at the trunk wires BUT ONLY 2 VOLTS at the passenger side door switch connector. I also tried to re-test with the driver door and trunk closed just in case the current makes a loop from driver side to rear to passenger side. Still only 2V. I also removed the plastics in the back seat and I don’t see any frayed wires that would be shorting out from the switch to where the wires go under the carpet.

The only things I did before this problem started was plug in my laptop to connect dsmlink for the first time to deal with smog related DTCs (connected and disconnected fine), replaced the passenger door handle itself (was broken – common from what I read), and I spliced into the wire going to the parking brake to try to “ground” the turbo timer so the timer would work. The turbo timer wiring didn’t work and I have since removed this. The e-brake light comes on and goes off like normal. The car also sat outside for about 3 weeks at my mechanic with smog issues (finally passed). My smog guy was the one who first found the dead battery due to the rear view mirror lights staying on.

Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Also my SRS light is on so I assume there is something wrong with my airbags.

Your problem is in the passenger door switch wiring. It's a simple circuit that when grounded, turns on the interior lights/door ajar. You need to trace back the red/green wire until you get to the point that it switches from 2 volts to 12 volts. Thatll be where your short is.

Okay thank you for the reply. So the switch, when engaged/pushed in/doors shut actually un-grounds/opens the circuit so that the lights turn off? And when the door opens and the switch is open the circuit is completed and the lights are on?

For some reason I thought it was the opposite and that the circuit was grounded with the doors closed (I now realize that makes no sense! haha).

I will try to trace the wires tomorrow.

I know that the OBD 2 port doesn't work when the fuse for the room lamp is pulled. No chance there is an issue with the OBD 2 port or ECU?

The door switch grounds 12v when open, your low voltage on the feed wire of the passenger door switch indicates that it's being pulled partially to ground somewhere along the line. The room fuse just powers a couple of circuits, theyre all separate from the door switch wiring, so unlikely that it would even be possible that the OBD port is causing this.

Awesome! Thank you. I am going to try to trace the red/green wires tomorrow. It is crazy though that it started happening suddenly. i did the little test light trick to test for a draw once I got the short to ground fixed and no light. Thank you for your help.

I found the problem! Both switches seem to connect to a relay mounted near the driver side seat belt. I think the connector wasn't plugged in all of the way. I unconnected everything and plugged both back in and no more battery draw!

This tread is resolved!

For the record. To find a battery drain:

Get a volt meter that measures amperage. Unhook the negative battery terminal and hook the positive on the volt meter to the negative terminal on the battery and the negative probe to the negative battery terminal

You should get a reading of about .7-.9 amps. A drain of 4 amps will kill your battery in 3-4 hours. Your headlights draw about 2 amps

So after you get your reading of amps, start removing fuses from the fuse box to find where it drops, or unhook switches and accessories to find your battery drain

It's very simple. You tube it, very very cheap and easy and you will be on your way to becoming a wiring whisperer

You've got it backwards. The positive ammeter probe always goes to the most positive. So it goes to cable terminal that used to be connected to battery negative (before you disconnected it) since it's now more positive than battery negative. The negative ammeter probe goes to battery negative (ie. the battery negative post). Note that to measure current you must plug the positive meter lead into the positive current jack (not leave it in the positive voltage jack). The negative lead stays in the same jack however. Also note a 50mA draw is normal for the radio and ECU.