2G Engine rebuild and other questions

JaKee003 · Sep 9, 2018

So I have a rebuilt 1995 gst and got the motor running last weekend, i have forged internals and bigger cams. I wanted to know if i could keep my stock turbo and 93 octane while i save for a bigger turbo in the future? Its making high compression 10:1 and i have a 255 walbro fuel pump so would it damage anything if i run it like this? Also i replaced the slave and master cylinder, since i upgraded my clutch. I did the procedures from a post on here that says the proper steps to bleeding hydraulic clutch. I did the steps and my pedal is stiff from the lower bottom when i press it in but it doesn't come out after pressing it in. It just stays in the middle.and i cranked my car on and left it running and noticed the front wheels were spinning even though i had the car in neutral and it was in the air on jack stands, any ideas on what could be the reason of this?

motomattx · Sep 9, 2018

Thats normal.

chrysler kid · Sep 10, 2018

Sometimes a wheel will spin even in neutral on jack stands. Make sure when you press the brake pedal the engine doesn't stall.

With the larger cams your car is going to run like crap without any tuning.

JaKee003 · Sep 10, 2018

so i just have to get a tune to get it running correctly? I don't have to get bigger injectors and upgrade fuel rating if i'm keeping stock turbo for now right? and any idea on why my clutch pedal is doing that?

arrowhead · Sep 10, 2018

What do you mean "making 10:1 compression", do you know what forge internals you have
You dont go around making compression, it is built into the motor by a combo of things, like pistons ,head or block machining, head gasket thickness etc.
It is called static compression.
Find out more about your engine internals so you will know what you have to work with,
If you have bigger cams, how big?
ASK the PO or the engine builder.

JaKee003 · Sep 10, 2018

why so smart? you didnt have to answer the question if you dont want to, let other people who are actually willing to help answer instead. Yes i know what forge internals i have or not i wouldnt know what compression it is, i wouldnt just assume its making 10:1 compression just because, i'm trying to get accurate answers so im giving accurate information. Who says i dont know my engine? My question was whether i would be able to run stock turbo, stock injectors, and low boost (9psi) until i save up for a bigger turbo without damaging anything since compression is not 8.5/1

ThunderChild · Sep 10, 2018

JaKee003 said:
why so smart? you didnt have to answer the question if you dont want to, let other people who are actually willing to help answer instead. Yes i know what forge internals i have or not i wouldnt know what compression it is, i wouldnt just assume its making 10:1 compression just because, i'm trying to get accurate answers so im giving accurate information. Who says i dont know my engine? My question was whether i would be able to run stock turbo, stock injectors, and low boost (9psi) until i save up for a bigger turbo without damaging anything since compression is not 8.5/1

This is common practice, you will want to monitor afr and knock and probably keep the boost low/limit driving till you can get a tune and/or swap your correct parts on.

You will probably need a fair amount of fuel and generously remove timing, but leave that to whoever does your tuning if you don't dabble yourself.

Prolly wont run excellent with a tiny turbo, big cams and compression, but it shouldn't be undriveable. Just don't expect a huge rocket ship.

chrysler kid · Sep 11, 2018

JaKee003 said:
so i just have to get a tune to get it running correctly? I don't have to get bigger injectors and upgrade fuel rating if i'm keeping stock turbo for now right? and any idea on why my clutch pedal is doing that?

So with the clutch sometimes you have to adjust the clutch master cylinder rod. You can screw the lever further in or further out depending on where the pedal is engaging.

The camshafts will adjust ignition and air fuel timing in a way the stock ECU won't be able to actively control. So long story short it will probably run ok on a stock T25 and stock fuel injectors, although I expect the car to really misfire above 6k rpms..

Having a built motor is only 1/3 of a horsepower setup. Your fuel system to support a built motor with upgraded internals should cost another $1300, and adequate ignition system another $1000 or so, another grand on enginemangement and gauges.

So yeah you went overkill. But if it was built properly I don't think a T25 can even spool correctly with too much camshaft overlap

JaKee003 · Sep 11, 2018

I see youre located in McKinney, do you know of a good shop that i can take it to get tuned ? Preferrably in the DFW area?

chrysler kid · Sep 13, 2018

Yeah man. Alamo in Arlington.

JaKee003 · Sep 16, 2018

okay got the clutch figured out now, fixed the issue, now i had turned the car on and noticed when i first turn the key in as im turning it on, the car jumps as if its going to start driving?

chrysler kid · Sep 19, 2018

JaKee003 said:
okay got the clutch figured out now, fixed the issue, now i had turned the car on and noticed when i first turn the key in as im turning it on, the car jumps as if its going to start driving?

Try bleeding the clutch slave, and then try adjusting the clutch master cylinder rod.

The clutch pedal has a metal rod that pushes into the clutch master cylinder,if you make the rod unscrew to be longer it will push the clutch down further

I put a new transmission in my gst and I had to get a new clutch fork and pivot ball because the clutch was catching too low.

It sounds like your clutch is dragging, so you need to try to adjust the pedal to push the clutch down further

JaKee003 · Sep 19, 2018

so i need to make my clutch pedal longer? cause what its doing is, when the car is off it lets me coast through gears, if i leave it in neutral and turn the car on and i try going into first gear it blocks me out, doesn't let me go into gear and car doesn't move. But if i have the car off and i start the car while i already have it in first gear and clutch down, as i turn the car on it starts rolling but doesn't let me switch to any gears.

chrysler kid · Sep 20, 2018

JaKee003 said:
so i need to make my clutch pedal longer? cause what its doing is, when the car is off it lets me coast through gears, if i leave it in neutral and turn the car on and i try going into first gear it blocks me out, doesn't let me go into gear and car doesn't move. But if i have the car off and i start the car while i already have it in first gear and clutch down, as i turn the car on it starts rolling but doesn't let me switch to any gears.

Correct. Your clutch slave on the transmission is not pushing down the clutch fork hard enough to push down on the clutch to make it let go of the engine.

When working correctly the slave pushes on the fork, which pushes down on the clutch to release the clutch to let the engine spin on its own while your foot is pushed down on the pedal

So you might have air in the system that won't push down the clutch to release the disc to let the engine spin. Our system works with fluid being pushed by the pedal that makes the slave on the transmission push down on the fork which pushes on the clutch pressure plate to release the transmission from the engine

Figure 1. Read the top and bottom of each diagram.

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Figure 2. A little more specific to how the disc inside the trans works

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Figure 3. Extremely detailed image of how your clutch works

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chrysler kid · Sep 20, 2018

I can't tell you exactly why your clutch isn't letting go of the motor, there are several different reasons. It could be

1. You're low on clutch fluid

2. Your clutch pedal rod on the pedal needs to be adjusted under the dash

3. The fluid system has air in it and can't push fluid because of the air bubble

4. Your clutch fork needs a shim behind the pivot ball because the new clutch is different

Having just installed a transmission in my personal car, the easiest thing to do is check your fluid. Sometimes after a major job the slave can leak a little fluid or pressure and you're just low on clutch fluid

After that the next easiest is to adjust the rod on the clutch pedal under the dash. It's a 6mm rod. Turn the rod clockwise and it will make the pedal push the clutch down further. You'll need a small 6mm wrench

brian9397gsx · Sep 21, 2018

On the clutch you've got to adjust it and check that it's not over adjusted. There's a pressure relief valve in the master and if it's over adjusted it will not allow the pressure in the line to fully release. Jack's trans has a really good video on YouTube for setting up the hydraulics on a 2g.

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2G Engine rebuild and other questions

JaKee003

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arrowhead

JaKee003

ThunderChild

chrysler kid

JaKee003

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