If it's that bad take it to a radiator shop and have it cleaned. But honestly id say junk it for another or pick up a fuel cell. You can get fuel cells that go in place like the jmfs but they may not be practical for a dd and are not very cheap. Then again dropping and cleaning it then sealing it time and time again for the same results is a bi***. Another option for cleaning it would be to cut a big enough hole in the top to be able to get more access inside to mechanically clean it but this takes a lot of care not to blow yourself up. Honestly I'd find another one or fuel cell it. Then last resort cut it open then weld shut being extremely careful and purging the inside with an inert gas like exhaust.

1glife said:

If I rev the car it drops to about 5 psi can’t even get to 2/3 psi of boost cause fuel pressure issue cause tank keeps clogging my filter

Click to expand...

I vote to see a picture of this "clogged" filter.

Sure I’ll send u some pictures of the filter u can even see my fuel pressure how low it is also but give me some time I’ll take it of and post some pics

Id take an air hose and spray the fuel lines from the tank to the fuel filter hose.
Also if fuel pressure is dropping there must be a leak somewhere. Likely internally if you're not smelling anything.

Old thread but good information that you put up.

So you keep getting debris in the fuel filter? When I cleaned and sealed my tank, I removed it filled it with some lengths of chain and a few dozen 1.5” deck screws, and shook it like mad. I started off doing it dry, and removing the chain and screws, vacuum the crud. Then I did it with some heavy duty water-based cleaner I got in the sealing kit from Eastwood. Then I proceeded with the rest of the steps to clean (using acids and solvents) and seal the tank. I used cork and/or leather (cut a work glove) to cover all the openings while giving it a lot of shaking around.
Crap came out with each step, until little to none at the end. Then the sealer locks whatever’s left in place. Might last a few years, might last forever: can’t say yet.
The car lived 29 years in Florida with other owners. Now in Dryoming.

Muriatic acid is fairly strong... strong enough I wouldn't put it inside my gas tank. O'm not sure what the inside is lined with, maybe galvanized. But that acid could eat right through whatever it is and cause oxidation/corrosion. Just an idea.

I think as long as you didn’t leave it in too long, rinsed it well, it wouldn’t be too bad. Still, if debris keeps coming loose and getting into the pump screen, etc., then you need some mechanical means of removal, at least in addition to chemical. The Eastwood kit comes with phosphoric acid...
The baffles in the tank make it a real challenge. For me, the fuel pump opening was just big enough to get my hand in, but not past my elbow, that’s for sure. I tried using various wire brushes and scrapers, sometimes with the handles tied to stiff wire to extend the reach. If your hand is too big, not sure how that would work.
in theory, a person could cut the seam on the two halfs, and then re-weld it. I’d worry about leaks, though.

Old thread, I realize, but I recently dropped the tank on my 1G AWD to clean it both inside and out, and see if I could fix a dent created when some damn fool hack mechanic tried to raise the rear with it instead of the diff, which luckily didn't puncture the tank (which is built like a tank!).

I was unable to fix the dent because the baffles made access impossible without the sorts of specialized tools that PDR body shops use, which I don't have access to. But the inside was surprisingly clean and rust-free.

Some of the baffles had some light rust on them, especially in their upper sections and near the filler tube and pump. But the tank itself looked almost new. I was shocked, pleasantly of course.

Even the pump was easy to remove and all six nuts and studs were in very good condition needing just a little cleaning up and derusting. The strainer was also in good condition so I left it on even though I had a Delphi replacement (I also couldn't get the screw that secured it off).

The outside and skirt were a different matter, lots of dirt, rust, scratches, etc., but nothing that a die grinder, rotary tools and POR-15 with the proper prep couldn't fix. Looks fantastic now back on the car.

I had purchased the POR-15 tank sealant prior to dropping the tank, but ended up not using it. I may drop it again someday and use it through, for the baffles, which I treated as best I could for rust but are still a bit rusted.

Why do some people have really messed-up tank interiors and some not? Are folks using unusual fuels or fuel additives? I almost always fill up with name brand premium gas and the only other things I put in there are the occasional Techron or Seafoam and similar products.

Or is it due to holes in the tank, lines or hoses that let dirt, grease and water in, or maybe a really filthy filter or charcoal canister and such?

Btw you probably shouldn't use muriatic acid in there, as it eats away at protective coatings and the good metal, potentially creating holes or making them more likely to develop, and actually invites rust due to its chemical nature.

And if you're going to use it, thoroughly neutralize it first with baking soda solution, then rinse that thoroughly with water and then dry thoroughly before lining (and if you used muriatic acid even once, you probably should line it even if it looks ok).

Glad yours was in good condition. I think the rust comes from long periods of sitting without much fuel, if I had to guess. The eclipse tank is rather difficult to inspect, due to it’s shape, openings, and baffles. Having done a similar job on my ‘69 dodge truck, which is much easier to inspect, the rustiness was all up high, above the half-way line and above. Fuel likely has rust inhibitors in it.
I did use muratic acid on both tanks, but it is followed by flushing several times with garden hose, then some kind of phosphoric acid,-etching solution, then acetone, and then sealer. This was all per the Eastwood kit I used, and they are a pretty reputable company with auto restoration. I never had any leaks or pinholes, so hoping that my efforts don’t end up causing some.

Some additional rust may also have been caused by my leaving the tank partly filled with tank cleaning solution for weeks, while I worked on other parts of the rear end. I may revisit this someday, but I don't think the rust is bad enough to demand prompt treatment. Same with the inside of the frame rails, which I examines with a boroscope, some rust but mostly if not entirely surface and non-structural. I try to prioritize what has to be done, what really should be done, and what would be nice to do but is some immediately essential.

And the thing about muriatic acid is that I've read that if not fully neutralized, it continues to eat away and allow new rust to form. But Eastwood presumably knows all this and whatever was in the kit surely neutralized it. I used it some myself, mostly on rusty fasteners, and used baking soda solution to neutralize it. It worked quite well but it made me a bit sick for several days even though it was very diluted and I worked outdoors. Pretty nasty stuff. I greatly prefer abrasive methods, Evaporust and phosphoric acid.