Seems like a great deal I paid almost 4 times that just on the labor on my motor. Did he say how many miles are on the motor? I would be safe if he does not ha e paper work and proof of miles to do the timing and water pump while the motor is out. I personally went the Kiggly crank trigger sensor route to make it a plug and play swap.

I'd be a little leary about those BC 272's...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/no-start-searched-and-tested.518932/

First and foremost, that does seem like a deal that is too good to be true. If I were to entertain buying a built motor, I would pull the valve cover and oil pan at the very least.

Pulling the valve cover lets you see the cams, cam lobes, springs and retainers. Look for markings on the cams to be what he says they are. Look for abnormal wear on the rockers and cam lobes and look to make sure there are ARP’s holding the head down.

Pulling the oil pan will let you see the inside of the pan. Look for a glitter party or anything that looks abnormal. You can see the rods to verify the parts are there. Make sure they are not discolored in any way. Reach in there and wiggle each rod to make sure there isn’t excessive play.

Lastly if you have a borescope take it. If not, you can get one for 35 bucks or so that hooks up to any cell phone. Take out a spark plug and use the borescope to verify the pistons. Personally I would inspect each cylinder to look at the piston and the cylinder wall.

If it has an MLS gasket, there will be parts of the head gasket that you can feel and see. If these are not there then its not an MLS.

This just verifies the parts are present but not that the clearances are correct. If all this pans out, then buy it and go from there. Ask for paperwork and proof of work performed. I have a hard time trusting people selling a good running motor for the price the rods and pistons.