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2G Oem oil filter

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MasterMatt209

Proven Member
473
30
Jan 17, 2015
Danville, Indiana
I’m about to do an oil change and I have an oem filters and crush washer for the pan. The filter comes with some plastic wrap over the opening with clear grease of some sort over the rubber. Do I wipe it off, oil it, then put it on? Just making sure before I do it. Also for the washer does it matter which way I put it on? It seems one side is made to “bite” would I want that on the pan side?
 
Have you never done an oil change? I've never seen a filter with grease on it. Oil the oring and install the filter. Washer doesn't matter. Just install it. Every one I've ever done us flat. No ridges or teeth
 
Have you never done an oil change? I've never seen a filter with grease on it. Oil the oring and install the filter. Washer doesn't matter. Just install it. Every one I've ever done us flat. No ridges or teeth

Yes I’ve done multiple oil changes but I’ve never had a filter come with a wrap over it and grease on the seal which is why I asked. But thanks I’m just gonna wipe it off and do everything as I normally do. Thanks
 
The o ring is supposed to be lubricated, not often by the factory but by using a finger dipped in oil.

The OEM filter is nothing more than a denso filter available from rock auto for about $3. Personally I wouldn't use an outdated paper filter meant for conventional motor oil.
 
The o ring is supposed to be lubricated, not often by the factory but by using a finger dipped in oil.

The OEM filter is nothing more than a denso filter available from rock auto for about $3. Personally I wouldn't use an outdated paper filter meant for conventional motor oil.
What filter do you use?
 
I usually use a k&n (Wal-Mart has the best prices for k&n filters and oil) or a mobil 1 filter. Purolator also makes a decent synthetic filter as well. I try to use a filter to match the oil. DSM gets mobil1 or royal purple and k&n. My jeep gets conventional with a mopar filter (also sold at wally world).
Don't get me wrong, I'm no expert but I'm always confused as to why people swear by the outdated oem filter.

Speaking of this, does anyone happen to know the k&n part # for the larger, wider filter? I believe it's for a 3000gt or maybe a 1g.
 
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The o ring is supposed to be lubricated, not often by the factory but by using a finger dipped in oil.

The OEM filter is nothing more than a denso filter available from rock auto for about $3. Personally I wouldn't use an outdated paper filter meant for conventional motor oil.

I thought oem was the way to go that’s what I’ve always heard and seen. Maybe I’ll go back to Mobil then
 
I run a Fram PH3950 which is shorter and wider to fit the 90 style oil filter housing that points the filter towards the down pipe. If that is what you are referring to, the corresponding K&N number is HP-1005.

http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/Fram/PH3950

Fram uses paper end caps that have been known to come unglued or deteriorate over time. But I've also always been a fan of normal maintenance beats any high price oil and filter. Still, I use purolator OEM or K&N. Whichever is cheaper at the time. OEM has recently raised their prices so I'll be trying to stock up on a deal when one pops up.
 
The filters with the larger housings are the 1G filter 90-94. All the filters have the same gasket & thread pitch & are interchangeable, 1G, 2G, & I think any filter for a Mitsubishi fits. FWIW my brand of choice is WIX. They are very good yet inexpensive.
 
Well gee when I go to Rockauto.com they show this WIX 51381 but, you know, it pretty difficult & I might be wrong. You should double check.
 
I use oem. I buy my oem from extremepsi. Have been using for years without an issue. It does in fact come with a opaque lubricant and clear wrapper. I only use valvoline vr1 conventional 20w50. Again I’ve never had any problems my $.02

Do you wipe the lube off?
 
I do not wipe the lube off on prelubed orings. If you want to wipe it off you should relube the oil filter oring before installing. To me it's sort of stupid to wipe off the lube & then have to put it back on. Also, I don't personally believe all the info in that EvoM post. The stated information provided is not the same as what on the oil filters I have sitting on my shelf. Specifically his WIX filter data is wrong but the Mobile 1 filter is close. As for the others filters, I don't know because I have never used them. I'll be sticking with my "made in USA" WIX filters as first & best choice.
 
The oil filter/mating surface doesn't care what sort of lube it has, as long as it's lubed to prevent it sticking hard to the surface and being a bi*** to remove later on. It's got nothing to do with leakage etc. I've seen some oil filters come pre-greased on the seal, which is fine and saves you the hassle of lubing it up yourself. Just give it a lookover and make sure it's covered all around.

As for the crush washer, I've also seen two types: a simple, flat copper washer (that still crushes when torqued), or one of those fancy aluminium ones which are flat on one end, and have a lip on the other. You put the flat end towards the drain plug, and the lip side towards the oil pan. That way it crushes against it and seals properly.
 
I was referring to the filter media being outdated LOL compared to the space age synthetic media used in synthetic purposed filters nowadays.
FWIW I've never had filter problems on my DSMs except for many years ago when I was a 420 newb I didn't realize the old o ring stuck to the ofh and I put a new filter over it. Holy shit what a mess and a waste of a couple quarts.
 
Cellulose media is not "out dated" but cellulose is different than synthetic. I prefer cellulose for it's ability to absorb moisture & oxidation contaminates, which synthetics struggle with. If you don't like changing your oil filter than a filter with synthetic media would be a better choice due to its typically longer FCI.
 
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