Hey folks, first of all thanks everyone for the support, its my pleasure to keep bring items out we all need and want and will continue to do so for many years to come.
This is a write up of the best way to install and adjust these arms, (edits of adding replacement parts will be input shortly) read all the way through before installing and also the last major notes section at the end!
NOTE!!!!!! Before reading any further please read! You MUST use Blue shockproof loctite on the 6 M8 bolts that lock the rodends in place on the inner and outer shafts before driving! Faliure to do this will most likely result in them bolts working loose and maybe falling off! And issues because of ingoring this advice is not my responseability!
Its also the reason for my next part listed below!!!
First off, when you open the box you will notice a pen! This is a red metal marking pen i thought would be a nice touch to mark the bolts once done up (at the end after setup!
The first steps are to remove the oem parts from the car, easily done.
Then remove all the shafts off my arms and put them in place,
Outer (knuckle) shaft goes on with the 2 flats either side to allow a 22mm wrench to be sloted on to stop the shaft spinning when doing the shaft up. This can be done up now and as tight as the oem nut, make sure its fully seated once done up,
The inner shafts goes on with the removeable top hat sitting inside the bay areas tube to spread the load and support across the whole tube! Then place the 1/2unf lock nut on top. Dont do this shaft up yet as you wont be able to! (Note) if your shafts dont go in then some paint or lip might have been put on your tubes! Clean it off and if needed lightly tap it into place without damaging the shafts!
Place the rodends onto the shafts in all areas and do them all up snug, then you can proceed to do the inner 1/2"unf bolts up,
The arms are raised like oem and will follow its angles exactly the same, the outer end over the knuckle will he higher then the inner 2 mountings, make sure you get this the right way around and also on the correct side aswel,
Take off the arms again leaving all the shafts done up now as you should never need to undo these again!
Preset the arms to roughly to the length of the oem arms, its roughly 16mm ish from fully in position back out on all 3 to get close to oem as a rough guide,
the small 6mm spacer goes on the inner shaft first then the rodend and then the M8 bolt to hold it in place!
Once your happy both sides are equal and happy with the setup from installing use some BLUE loctite on the M8 bolts and finally do them up again this time quite snug, it dont need to be overly tight as the loctite will hold it well and you do need to get them off again for future adjustments also! Once this stage is done this is when you can mark the bolt inline eith the shafts to make sure they are not spinning loose on you and you can see then through the fender / wheel area when the cars on the ground!
(Note Tips)
These tips will help out so in the future for adjustments.
* Always use all the threads up on the outer rod end first (primary adjustment) Then the inner 2 rodends (secondary adjustment) This keeps strength to its max.
* 10mm of rod end thread is roughly 1° of camber!
* Adjusting the arms on the car from an alignment rack is doable, just lightly support the car keeping the wheels touching the floor to prevent them drooping over, while you take the inner rodends off make sure you dont drop or loose the 6mm spacer above the rodend! This needs to go back on aswel before the rodend and some grease might help keep it in place, once adjusted install it back up and nip the bolt back up and check readings!
* Outer rod end adjustment is the same as inner just jack the car up and do this through the wheel area, remember use this rod end as a primary adjustment!
* Caster is set mainly by adjusting the inner rodends, , more caster the rod end at the back gets threaded more, the front rodend can be adjusted out more but please be careful you dont come out too far! I have given a decent amount of safety room, again if you cause an issue from bad adjustments i cannot be held liable.
* Caster also has its limits with camber! This is car dependant and will be different for everyones setups,
* That 6mm spacer can be swapped around to do 2 things! Both of which should only be used if the car has been logged and you know exactly how the car is setup in regards to roll centers and your anti dive center!
* Roll center adjustment then put the spacer below the rodend as it will adjust the motion of the arm adjusting roll center a fraction! It will also slow down camber gain upon Jounce/bump.
* Andi dive then only do the rear most rodend increasing the arm angle slightly!
Both of these last 2 features are there if needed but dont have to be used!
DONT FORGET, LOCTITE AFTER ALL IS SETUP BEFORE DRIVING!!!!!! AND USE THE RED MARKER PEN!
Rodends details to follow.....
This is a write up of the best way to install and adjust these arms, (edits of adding replacement parts will be input shortly) read all the way through before installing and also the last major notes section at the end!
NOTE!!!!!! Before reading any further please read! You MUST use Blue shockproof loctite on the 6 M8 bolts that lock the rodends in place on the inner and outer shafts before driving! Faliure to do this will most likely result in them bolts working loose and maybe falling off! And issues because of ingoring this advice is not my responseability!
Its also the reason for my next part listed below!!!
First off, when you open the box you will notice a pen! This is a red metal marking pen i thought would be a nice touch to mark the bolts once done up (at the end after setup!
The first steps are to remove the oem parts from the car, easily done.
Then remove all the shafts off my arms and put them in place,
Outer (knuckle) shaft goes on with the 2 flats either side to allow a 22mm wrench to be sloted on to stop the shaft spinning when doing the shaft up. This can be done up now and as tight as the oem nut, make sure its fully seated once done up,
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The inner shafts goes on with the removeable top hat sitting inside the bay areas tube to spread the load and support across the whole tube! Then place the 1/2unf lock nut on top. Dont do this shaft up yet as you wont be able to! (Note) if your shafts dont go in then some paint or lip might have been put on your tubes! Clean it off and if needed lightly tap it into place without damaging the shafts!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Place the rodends onto the shafts in all areas and do them all up snug, then you can proceed to do the inner 1/2"unf bolts up,
The arms are raised like oem and will follow its angles exactly the same, the outer end over the knuckle will he higher then the inner 2 mountings, make sure you get this the right way around and also on the correct side aswel,
Take off the arms again leaving all the shafts done up now as you should never need to undo these again!
Preset the arms to roughly to the length of the oem arms, its roughly 16mm ish from fully in position back out on all 3 to get close to oem as a rough guide,
the small 6mm spacer goes on the inner shaft first then the rodend and then the M8 bolt to hold it in place!
Once your happy both sides are equal and happy with the setup from installing use some BLUE loctite on the M8 bolts and finally do them up again this time quite snug, it dont need to be overly tight as the loctite will hold it well and you do need to get them off again for future adjustments also! Once this stage is done this is when you can mark the bolt inline eith the shafts to make sure they are not spinning loose on you and you can see then through the fender / wheel area when the cars on the ground!
(Note Tips)
These tips will help out so in the future for adjustments.
* Always use all the threads up on the outer rod end first (primary adjustment) Then the inner 2 rodends (secondary adjustment) This keeps strength to its max.
* 10mm of rod end thread is roughly 1° of camber!
* Adjusting the arms on the car from an alignment rack is doable, just lightly support the car keeping the wheels touching the floor to prevent them drooping over, while you take the inner rodends off make sure you dont drop or loose the 6mm spacer above the rodend! This needs to go back on aswel before the rodend and some grease might help keep it in place, once adjusted install it back up and nip the bolt back up and check readings!
* Outer rod end adjustment is the same as inner just jack the car up and do this through the wheel area, remember use this rod end as a primary adjustment!
* Caster is set mainly by adjusting the inner rodends, , more caster the rod end at the back gets threaded more, the front rodend can be adjusted out more but please be careful you dont come out too far! I have given a decent amount of safety room, again if you cause an issue from bad adjustments i cannot be held liable.
* Caster also has its limits with camber! This is car dependant and will be different for everyones setups,
* That 6mm spacer can be swapped around to do 2 things! Both of which should only be used if the car has been logged and you know exactly how the car is setup in regards to roll centers and your anti dive center!
* Roll center adjustment then put the spacer below the rodend as it will adjust the motion of the arm adjusting roll center a fraction! It will also slow down camber gain upon Jounce/bump.
* Andi dive then only do the rear most rodend increasing the arm angle slightly!
Both of these last 2 features are there if needed but dont have to be used!
DONT FORGET, LOCTITE AFTER ALL IS SETUP BEFORE DRIVING!!!!!! AND USE THE RED MARKER PEN!
Rodends details to follow.....
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Last edited:
