1G Auto swap update....

boostdawd · Jun 28, 2018

Distribution block to fuse box is fine.

SasaniFab · Jun 28, 2018

boostdawd said:
Distribution block to fuse box is fine.

ok so ill just use an external fuse to the switch. Thank you sir. I love building engines, mechanical shit......I like wiring as much as I like installing the waterpump pulley when the engine is installed in the chassis. HATE IT.....So tedious

SasaniFab · Jun 28, 2018

It was a lot easier when I was 16.... speaker wire, some duct tape or masking tape. Sure it would short out periodically....Much easier.

boostdawd · Jun 28, 2018

Hack jobs

SasaniFab · Jun 28, 2018

boostdawd said:
Hack jobs

Currently i have the fuel pump hot wire directly to battery. This should probably be on the switch also? Power is only on when the cas is moving yes

BoostedTalonTS · Jun 29, 2018

A little late, but I would recommend that you run a larger than 2awg wire front to rear run. Then use fused distribution blocks on either end. 0/1 wire would be the minimum that I would use for any battery relocation project.

I'd also stay away from using those AGU glass fused blocks. They don't like the heat of the engine bay & I've seen plenty of them turn into resistors with enough heat cycles and/or age... they are basically made of a three piece construction that are all cold-soldered together. If you stick to a solid fuse construction type (like Maxi or ANL for the larger current runs) & you won't have any issues.

If you retained the factory 1g fuse block on the front passenger fender, then you can use the factory 80A Alternator fuse holder as a mini distribution block, provided that you use slightly longer 10mm bolts to secure the thicker 4awg ring terminals to it. I ran 4awg from my Saturn Alt to this location, and then on the other side to the fuse holder, added another 4awg run that went to the 0/1 distribution block that I've got under the hood. That 80A factory fuse can be upgraded at the same (the bolts need to be removed on either side in order to remove it)... I'm running a 120A fuse in this location.

Lastly, please choose another ground point. The three tiny spot welds on the rear spare tire retaining nipple are serving as your entire chassis ground right now. -You're better off running it up to the rear passenger side strut tower, where you will find a much more suitable ground (ie thicker/more plies of chassis to serve as a better conductor)

Wire in a relay for your fuel pump that gets triggered from the factory fuel pump wire (85). Pin 86 then goes to ground. Then run a fused (I used a single 15A fuse for my 450LPH Walbro pump) 12awg or larger sized wire to the N.O. relay position (87). Then pin 30 goes to the fuel pump directly.

SasaniFab · Jul 3, 2018

BoostedTalonTS said:
A little late, but I would recommend that you run a larger than 2awg wire front to rear run. Then use fused distribution blocks on either end. 0/1 wire would be the minimum that I would use for any battery relocation project.

I'd also stay away from using those AGU glass fused blocks. They don't like the heat of the engine bay & I've seen plenty of them turn into resistors with enough heat cycles and/or age... they are basically made of a three piece construction that are all cold-soldered together. If you stick to a solid fuse construction type (like Maxi or ANL for the larger current runs) & you won't have any issues.

If you retained the factory 1g fuse block on the front passenger fender, then you can use the factory 80A Alternator fuse holder as a mini distribution block, provided that you use slightly longer 10mm bolts to secure the thicker 4awg ring terminals to it. I ran 4awg from my Saturn Alt to this location, and then on the other side to the fuse holder, added another 4awg run that went to the 0/1 distribution block that I've got under the hood. That 80A factory fuse can be upgraded at the same (the bolts need to be removed on either side in order to remove it)... I'm running a 120A fuse in this location.

Lastly, please choose another ground point. The three tiny spot welds on the rear spare tire retaining nipple are serving as your entire chassis ground right now. -You're better off running it up to the rear passenger side strut tower, where you will find a much more suitable ground (ie thicker/more plies of chassis to serve as a better conductor)

Wire in a relay for your fuel pump that gets triggered from the factory fuel pump wire (85). Pin 86 then goes to ground. Then run a fused (I used a single 15A fuse for my 450LPH Walbro pump) 12awg or larger sized wire to the N.O. relay position (87). Then pin 30 goes to the fuel pump directly.

What i ended up with...... ditched the 2 gauge for 0 gauge from the switch to the battery and from the switch to the distribution block. I ran a dedicated 2 gauge wire from the alternator to one side of the switch. The distribution block has 4 4 gauge ports i used for the small fuse box and the fuse box on the passenger side. The battery Is fused with a 150 amp fuse, my alternator with a 80 amp seeing as its the factory auto 75 amp. As far as the ground. I kept one as is and ran one up to the rear seatbelt mount. One 4 gauge to spare mount and one 0 gauge to the belt mount. I still think this is alittle overkill but. The only other question i had was grounding in the engine bay. I made a twin 4 gauge cable that bolts on to the tranny/ engine bolt and have one lead going to firewall and the other the passenger side fender wall.

BoostedTalonTS · Jul 14, 2018

amsrn13 said:
What i ended up with...... ditched the 2 gauge for 0 gauge from the switch to the battery and from the switch to the distribution block. I ran a dedicated 2 gauge wire from the alternator to one side of the switch. The distribution block has 4 4 gauge ports i used for the small fuse box and the fuse box on the passenger side. The battery Is fused with a 150 amp fuse, my alternator with a 80 amp seeing as its the factory auto 75 amp. As far as the ground. I kept one as is and ran one up to the rear seatbelt mount. One 4 gauge to spare mount and one 0 gauge to the belt mount. I still think this is alittle overkill but. The only other question i had was grounding in the engine bay. I made a twin 4 gauge cable that bolts on to the tranny/ engine bolt and have one lead going to firewall and the other the passenger side fender wall.

Ah.. I'm running a relocated & re-wound Saturn Alt (thus the larger 120A fuse rating).

As for the engine bay grounds, I took an different approach; I also ran a 0/1 run of a ground cable (grounding it along the way, wherever I could find a decent place to ground) with the front/rear 0/1 power primary. Once in the engine bay, I grounded it to one of the trans bell housing bolts via a larger 2/0 ring terminal that I combined in a an extra 4awg wire run... I then used the 4awg ground to ground out the alternator housing directly (being relocated, it's literally right there).
In the stock alternator location, you can always re-run the factory dual 10awg alternator's white power primaries with a single 4awg run that follows the factory run that's in front of the lower radiator core tank to get a little bit more out of that 75A A/T alt. Then you can re-purpose those existing dual 10awg wires as a ground for your alternator case. -Just be sure to disconnect them from the factory 80A fuse block location first though! If you go this route, then combine it with another eyelet on the factory 12mm subframe trans ground location & then combine it with a new 4awg ground run that goes out to the AT trans housing. You will have to cut the factory loom back a bit, so that it'll reach it, but it's long enough to make that 12mm bolt location, with the soldered on bracket that originally connects to the lower portion of the 80A alt fuse holder

SasaniFab · Jul 20, 2018

Cars ready to fire guys! Its been a long ass road

bpk1337 · Jul 26, 2018

What Ecu do you plan on running?

brian9397gsx · Jul 26, 2018

Looks pretty good cant wait for updates. I need to go out and mess with mine but damn it's been hot.

SasaniFab · Jul 26, 2018

bpk1337 said:
What Ecu do you plan on running?

I am running a dsmlink v3, The good news is the car is up and running. Just waiting to get the shift box back for the firmware update. I really have to give a
Shot out to ohm, their wiring harness was flawless..... car fired up first rotation. Couldnt be happier

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1G Auto swap update....

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