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Rebuilding engine, crank feels tight.

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99-420a

Probationary Member
25
3
Jun 30, 2018
Newark, Ohio
I am rebuilding my engine(420a). I was reassembling the engine, I put in the mains/thrust bearings and started to put bed plate back on. I bolted it down and tried turning crank by hand. I get about half way and it gets tight but still can turn it if given a push.
I have no oil pump,rods/pistons installed. Its simply the crankshaft and new bearings and bed plate.
I have them oiled with 10w30. I haven't plasti gauge it yet since autozone was closed when I got off.

My question is should the crankshaft have more resistance when aprx half a turn? I was wandering if its overcoming the counter weights and that's what I feel.

Bold for the people that skim.
Thanks for any knowledge you may provide.
 
If there is nothing else attached, it should turn very freely.
You will also want to use some kind of assembly line, oil may work ok, but a moly assembly lube would be better.
Did you have the parts checked by a shop? Was the crank dropped, knocked over or set on an uneven surface for long amounts of time? the crank may be bent.
 
If there is nothing else attached, it should turn very freely.
You will also want to use some kind of assembly line, oil may work ok, but a moly assembly lube would be better.
Did you have the parts checked by a shop? Was the crank dropped, knocked over or set on an uneven surface for long amounts of time? the crank may be bent.
Crank was cleaned polished inspected, block was hot tanked and i asked him to give it a look over for any problems. Crank hasn't been dropped that I know of. It was stored on a wooden shelf wrapped in plastic shipping wrap for about a year with nothing around it. I was using oil for testing,I have some Lucas assembly lube for the final assembly.
Should i tomorrow pull bed plate off again, clean and plati gauge in 3 different orientations? Then go from there?
Anyone happen to have oil clearance on hand for mains on a 420a? If not i can search in my FSM.


BTW this rebuild is happening because the cyl 4 rod bearing spun. So the old crank got trashed.
 
Last edited:
Could check with a better assembly lube. Hopefully it didn't scuff the crank or anything.
What about checking alignment on the main bore, was that checked? Could be off, might need an align hone.
 
I will do some cleaning and lube after plasti.I found ths oil specs in the fsm.
I was very vauge on what i asked to be checked and he was vauge when I picked it up.
I asked for it to be looked over for any areas of concern and hot tanked. 2 daya later when I picked it up ,He pointed out one small scuff on the outside of the deck and told me it shouldn't be a problem and to enjoy.
This is also the same shop that milled the head and it came back as bad if not worse then I took it. I just got the head back 2 days ago from a better shop which did MUCH better work.
 
Thought I would update and show my n00b side.
It was my main seal that was making it feel tight. Took main seal off reinstalled Bed plate and bolts, spins freely. I feel stupid but at least it wasn't the block or crank messed up.
 
Glad you found that out. Sounds like you need to find a better machine shop. Hopefully it all works out for you, but I usually try to be as thorough as possible with shops about what I expect. When paying money for work, I don't expect half ass.

Gl with it
 
I tried the shop that is closest to my home and actually could be on my way to work. I learned it wasn't the best option. I called my uncle that works in the automotive industry and asked if he knew of a good machine shop. He pointed me to the guy they use. He did a fantastic job on the head and was done same day. Cost $75 to have it milled vs $40 the other shop charged to leave knicks and tooling marks.
 
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