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1G (URGENT) Noob questions, 4G63T won't start.

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914 Cheeko

Probationary Member
28
0
Jul 10, 2018
Newtown, Connecticut
Hey everyone, I'm pretty new to working on cars but I've been an enthusiast for about a year or two now. I just got a '91 Galant VR4 with a swapped Talon Turbo TSi engine. The the last owner has had a few problems with the car and it won't run smooth at all until the engine is up to temperature. Even when it's warm it runs a little rough.

The last owner didn't realize there was an oil leak so the oil is extremely low and I am not planning on starting it until I get that fixed, because I'm only 18 and unemployed so I can't afford to keep refilling my oil and just have it leak out. I figured out so far that the valve cover gasket is leaking from multiple spots, I ordered a new gasket so that's one thing down. There are a few other things I don't know anything about, but I am suspecting they are the causes of the issues.

The first thing is the aftermarket oil catch can being disconnected. The previous owner said that the person he bought it from never finished setting it up. I saw that the hoses reached another hose coming out of the valve cover and the hose coming from the valve cover was dripping with oil. I don't know what it is for, assuming that cars don't come with oil catch cans from the factory (don't forget this is my first car I've ever worked on.) The valve cover has a hole specifically for the hose, it wasn't welded on. The picture is the oil catch can and the hoses I'm talking about. I moved the one from the valve cover to the one at the silver K&N catch can on the left so you can see the length of the tube.

There are a few other problems I'm having like a boost leak that I will make another thread on once I get the oil issue figured out and fixed. Thanks everyone.
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https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/valve-cover-breather.437006/

That is a vent for the crankcase gases. What does your intake pipe into the turbo look like? A catch can could be used but it must be installed correctly. Alot of people "bypass" reroute to avoid any oil entering the intercooler and piping.

The one of the spots the boost leak is coming from is literally right outside of the turbo turbine. If you look close at the turbo there's a ton of gunk on the other side of the turbine.
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Picture in your first post is a little too close to see everything but many of your vacuum hoses are blocked, not hooked up, etc. There should be the OEM vacuum diagram on the under side of the hood. Start with trying to sort out your hoses. You'll have to do some searching & reading for some of the things which PO modded & you should double check the manual booster controller install too. Many noobs get confused on their first install of these till they figure out what's actually going on. New "to you" car, do all your preventive maintenance first regardless. Also while addressing the valve cover o-ring inspect it for cracks from improper tightening. The valve covers are delicate and need only be hand tight. Hopefully your's isn't already cracked from over tightening.
 
I don't see a pcv valve in the pictures.
You gotta get it back to oem "stock" and it should work like oem "stock".
That catch can setup is a little bit bling, but it's not set up correctly and you may not even need it.
You should have a pcv valve. Search how to build a functional dsm pcv system. There are many ways to set it up all detailed for you.
That should start to fix the idle.
Side valve cover nipple goes to your pre turbo intake pipe.
Back valve cover nipple usually has a pcv valve screwed in.... which then attaches to your blocked of hose under the fuel rail.
 
Picture in your first post is a little too close to see everything but many of your vacuum hoses are blocked, not hooked up, etc. There should be the OEM vacuum diagram on the under side of the hood. Start with trying to sort out your hoses. You'll have to do some searching & reading for some of the things which PO modded & you should double check the manual booster controller install too. Many noobs get confused on their first install of these till they figure out what's actually going on. New "to you" car, do all your preventive maintenance first regardless. Also while addressing the valve cover o-ring inspect it for cracks from improper tightening. The valve covers are delicate and need only be hand tight. Hopefully your's isn't already cracked from over tightening.

I have a external wastegate (I don't know if that is the same as an atmospheric wastegate or whatever) and I heard you don't need the PCV things if you have that, is that correct? Sorry if it's a stupid question I don't know much about turbos.
 
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A cars have a PVC & have for a bunch of years like back to the 70's. PVC has nothing to do with waste gates. Absolutely no connection between the two. You should try & restore everything back to original OEM then you can start planning your path forward. It so much easier building from a working platform. First thing you should do is address the vacuum system followed with a BLT (boost leak test). Also if you can't prove the timing belt's age & miles, change it.
 
PCV stands for positive crankcase pressure valve.
Air pressure moves through the ring end gaps as the pistons compresses.
This air needs to be removed from the crankcase or you will pressurize the crankcase, causing oil leaks when seals blow out, or dip stick tube oil bubbles out.
The PCV valve removes pressure from the crankcase using vacuum from the intake manifold at idle and off boost.
Once you are boosting, the side valve cover nipple vents the pressure into your pre turbo intake tube, where vacuum exists.
Oil moves through this air and that's why some people use the catchcan.
Venting the valvecover side nipple to atmosphere typically will give you some sort of idle issue.
 
Drew you a crude diagram in paint.

If you hook everything up like this, then you should have a somewhat improved idle. You can cap all the lines on the throttle body. Cap any other vacuum port not in use.

You should have 1 line going to the brake booster from the intake manifold. 1 line going to the valve cover from the intake manifold (at the pcv valve) 1 line going to the blow off valve from the intake manifold. 1 line from the intake to the end of the fuel rail. It can have a T piece installed for a boost gauge if you have one.

Then you should have a line going from the valve cover to the intake pipe, after the mass airflow sensor.

Then you should have a line going from any point after the turbo outlet to the wastegate.

Picture is worth a thousands words maybe.
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Running rough Cold.Fix all vacuum lines and Boost leak test, boost leak test than. 1st thing is check the throttle body. If everything is disconnected it will definitely run rough cold. There are 2 major components right there who's sole purpose is to smother out your idle both cold and warm. IAC Idle air control valve works at all times to try and keep your idle steady. And FIAV fast idle air Vale opens when cold to raise the idle and get the car up to temperature faster so the car doesn't stall and improve emissions. The second thing I would check would be EGR exhaust gas recirculation. It is a valve that lets some hot exhaust gas recirculate back into the intake and if it clogs can cause some idle issues. The external waste gate is to let exhaust bypass the turbo so it doesn't spin it and is how boost gets limited not a problem for idle. A blow off valve let's the boost pressure out between the turbo and throttle body. If you are boosting 20 psi and let off the throttle quick you slam the throttle blade with a ton of air rushing at it and the turbo still spinning full tilt. Well air backing up/ barking through the turbo is bad and can snap blades and turbine shafts. Can cause problems if leaking at idle as it let's in air the mass air doesn't know about. Generally the problem with not having the blow off valve recirculating is not noticed at idle but during deceleration. The engine can stall out because now your losing air the mass air meter thought was going back to the engine. Next check timing, change spark plugs
 
The Maf does not know which way down is. How the maf is installed is not the #1 problem. Maybe problem #8.
Yes you should hook your BOV back to your intake pipe.
How muck do u want to bet u mite
The Maf does not know which way down is. How the maf is installed is not the #1 problem. Maybe problem #8.
Yes you should hook your BOV back to your intake pipe.
U mite Want to do some research on how mafs work with flow meter needles they need to be set at factory level position to read correct. We have encountered numerous tuning problems with mafs just angled a lil bit . 90" is crazy.
 
U mite Want to do some research on how mafs work with flow meter needles they need to be set at factory level position to read correct. We have encountered numerous tuning problems with mafs just angled a lil bit . 90" is crazy.

Ever heard of karman vortex sensor? No "flow meter needles" in a mitsubishi maf. Do some research.
 
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