Did you remove the firewall insulation in the engine bay?

Mine does the same. Following

Are you sure that the heater is off, that your heater core isn't constantly open and getting your interior hot?

It sucks that we look forward to driving on nice sunny hot days, just to be assaulted by the hot sun and air of the nice sunny hot day.(high iat's, timing curve drop, hot engine bay, hot rad fan, hot interior and hotter engine bay if the AC is on(timing curve drop due to ac as well.))
I much prefer my -20 degree winter tune to my +25 degree summer tune.
Following.

With this excessive heat it is just the way it is, I have noticed it as well. I will say if you have any firewall holes exposed this will let hot air be introduced as a draft from the engine compartment plugging these will really help.

Any road racer can tell you that after a few laps the whole chassis itself will start to warm up when it's 100 degrees out like it has been it's gonna seem real hot....period.

The next big thing is how close the exhaust is to the body, the more it hugs it the hotter is gets, I have wrapped the entire exhaust to help lower cabin temps.

Everybody removes the sound deadner but that is an insulator, I still keep and have it on the driveshaft tunnel especially the area around the driers right leg/gas pedal area.

Long story short, without AC this is the price of business of driving a modified turbo car in the summer.

Coming home from the street races sat night after driving around a bunch the seat literally felt like I had a seat warmer on full tilit....which of course I don't have heated seats.

This is messing with my trans as well, my fluid is getting much hotter than it normally does and the synchromesh isn't happy at 200*. I'm might have to try the Syncho Light to see if that helps, I really don't want to and don't really think it will help to be honest.

Ahhh yes a trans cooler setup, the ultimate back burner DSM project, maybe one day.

If you want to drop cabin temps even further than what @ist dwa explained, delete your heater core and put a vent in the hood to let more heat escape.

Set vents to windshield and close fresh air will help.

ist dwa said:

Long story short, without AC this is the price of business of driving a modified turbo car in the summer.

Click to expand...

This guy runs 10s with no FMIC and with ac

Put reflectix under the carpet. Works wonders.


Also, you can try loop your heater core lines for the summer just to make sure.

Seriously you guys need to put all of your heat shielding back on your exhaust and manifolds.

Both of my catback only dsm's are my daily drivers here in Dallas, it was 110 heat index today and neither cars have tint. Both cars have ice cold AC's and no trace of any heat vapors even rolling through the drive thru window.

Heat wrap is cheap. Imagine what your uncoated downpipes are doing to your oil pan temps if you can feel the heat coming from the car

BTW two 50 in rolls heat wrap 24.99 shipped on ebay

If you've deleted the AC then I've got no sympathy, racecar problems get racecar problems

Wow I forgot about this thread: didn't realize there were so many answers!
Yes my ac is deleted. The compressor was shot so when I put my new motor in I got rid of it. I have decent self stick heat shielding on my hood I can use on the floor but that's not the problem. The heat is coming from under the dash just like the heat is on. It's not coming from the heat vents (I only use the fresh air when I have to use the defroster) but from the entire under dash/firewall area. I've been cleaning up the bay and was considering tearing the insulation off the firewall for aesthetics but not now, unless I can replace it with something better. I'm gonna try putting the self stick heat barrier or reflectix inside under the pedal area.

Make sure your rubber firewall plugs are still there. Does it feel like heat is coming through when yiu dont have the vent fsn on? If so, I’d suspect it is air passing through holes in the firewall. It would be cold air on cold days too I’d think though.