Hi Tuners, still in the process of going through this Talon and trying to get things in order. I got my ECMLink installed and got it running (like sh**, but running nonetheless) enough to drive it. I got it out on the road and when I shifted 2/3 it grinded going in to 3rd. Sometimes it'll grind a little shifting 3/4. It isn't like a grind that makes it tough to put it into the gear, it goes right in just makes an ugly grind doing so. Now, the clutch to me has always felt weak, just while I push it in to start it. Also, when I first start it up for the day, it seems reluctant to go into 1st or R and after driving for a few minutes, the pedal gets a good couple inches of slack at the top of the pedal. I really don't want to believe this is a syncro issue, but I know that's a possibility. However, what else should I be checking/eliminating before assuming it's the trans?

What I've done already (will update as I dive deeper into the issue):

• Bled the clutch twice
• Clutch drag test (see video)

From the drag test, it seems to me that the clutch isn't the issue. I did pull the center console off and revealed some sketchy work on the shifter cable closest to the driver seat. Here's a pic of that:


Any info is greatly appreciated guys!

So, a guy on another thread told me about a way to test for a bad synchro. I turned the car on and tried to put it into each gear without the clutch pushed in. I was prevented from entering every gear except 3rd(the one grinding) and it sort of dropped in and grinded. My questions now are:

1. Does this for sure mean the synchro is bad and it's not just an adjustment or something?
2. How hard of a job is dropping the trans and replacing the necessary parts?

I am by no means a seasoned mechanic, but some say it isn't so hard. How hard is an awd trans rebuild?

The top bolt on the shifter bracket assembly is missing. Install a bolt and make sure the assembly doesn't move when you shift through all the gears. Guy used paperclips to secure the cable but that isn't your issue. My 2g had similar issues and it turned out to be a very small leak from the hose off the reservoir. You can check the linkage at the trans. Pretty sure they sell solid inserts if yours are worn. I'd check the travel of slave cylinder to make sure it's fully extending. I don't have the specs but I'm sure you can find it here. There's also a rod from the master to the clutch pedal that you can adjust. If you do adjust that, make small adjustments and road test it. If trans is ok, maybe it's time for a new master and/or slave.

The clutch drag test should be done at 7k RPM's with all 4 tires jacked up off the ground. Also you need to insure that your clutch is properly adjusted and that your clutch pivot fork is sitting in the proper location.

Well, this might be a stupid question, but my car has a sticker in the door jam that reads:

"<Caution> This vehicle is equipped with a viscous coupling type limited slip differential in the rear axle. 'Never' start the engine or rotate any raised wheel while your vehicle is supported by a jack."

So, is it dangerous to perform a clutch drag test with all wheels off the ground?

Probably not a problem as you're only doing it for a second.

With ALL THE WHEELS off the ground.

Alright, thanks.

I have some gear oil on the way. Don't really want engage the trans until I see what the fluid looks like and can check things out down there. Once I get the fluids changed, I'll do another drag test and see where I'm at.

As Tk106 mentioned your missing this bolt (yellow arrow). I’m not sure if yours is genuine, but I had the knockoff B&M shifter and it was garbage; I had to remove it and the stock shifter made it much smoother. Mine may have been just worn out but it’s just a thought, good luck

nismojones said:

As Tk106 mentioned your missing this bolt (yellow arrow). I’m not sure if yours is genuine, but I had the knockoff B&M shifter and it was garbage; I had to remove it and the stock shifter made it much smoother. Mine may have been just worn out but it’s just a thought, good luck

Click to expand...

I wasn't exactly sure which bolt he was referring to, so I appreciate your illustration. Also, I wasn't even aware that it wasn't the stock shifter. Just noticed it looked a lot less rusty than others

A quick update, guys:

I got my fluids in the mail and went ahead and drained the trans and filled it with MT-90. The old fluid looked pretty bad, so either way it needed it. Went for a test drive and the grind is a lot better but definitely still there. Just kind of sounds and feels like a crunch going in. So that sucks, people made it sound like this fluid could work miracles oh well...

While I had the front on stands, I went ahead and lifted the back as well and did a clutch drag test with all 4 off the ground (as suggested by jakk220):


So, it appears that I do have some drag. The clutch pedal honestly feels like shit. Doesn't grab consistently, feels really soft, and gets a lot of slack at the top of the pedal after a few minutes of driving. Wish I knew more about clutch assembly adjustments...

Durr, this one as well. There should be (4) total on that plate holding it to the floor.

My first post is wrong btw, yours does appear to have the bolt in there, on mine it had a nut and bolt, was hacked.

nismojones said:

Durr, this one as well. There should be (4) total on that plate holding it to the floor.

My first post is wrong btw, yours does appear to have the bolt in there, on mine it had a nut and bolt, was hacked.

Click to expand...

That's alright. Good to know.

In the coming days, I'm going to follow the clutch pedal adjustment video from JacksTransmissions and see if I can get it shifting better. If that has no effect, I'll have to decide what I want to do with this car.

Does anyone one know where I can find shift cable brackets for 1995 awd that bolt to the transmission?