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Wiggins clamps.. Talk me out of them.

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I sent back my alpha locks after seeing them not really be able to seal on another DSM, guy still had to add a coupler to get it to work right. (could have been user error). All i know is that your welding needs to be spot on, and your motor can not move much at all.

I decided not to deal with the headache and just use couplers. I'm not going for 40+ psi, anything under that its just for show.

They do look awesome tho...
LPS fab
vibrant
wiggins. etc
 
My issue with all of them is they you’re rigidly connecting the engine to something mounted to the frame (intercooler).
If you have a race car with solid mounts (including subframe bushings) it’s fine. Anything else and you can have issues.

^^^^This... Although they look extremely cool. If you don't have a solid motor or at least a very stiff motor mount setup they will induce stresses on the fixed component mounting locations. They have movement both axial (in and out) and angular/vertical but not enough to compensate OEM or slightly higher durometer mounting movements. Over time cracks on the intercooler mounting tabs would not be uncommon. At the end of the day, if you are not blowing couplers, I honestly don't see a reason for these on a street car. They look awesome though....
 
For what it’s worth LOL this happened to a guy... and that doesnt happen with “metal couplers/clamps”
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I'll call it, that looks more than 1 day old :D

But in all actuality, that can happen with any coupler, it's just a matter of numbers. Also, that's a HUGE 90* just looking for a weak spot. Instead of relying on that mass of silicone and string to hold it together, weld some elbows on so you only have a short span for the coupler to make, vs 10+ inches. #lazy... haha kidding..not kidding?

Reply is right tho, bust out the "hundred mile n' hour" tape :hellyeah: I crack myself up.
 
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I sent back my alpha locks after seeing them not really be able to seal on another DSM, guy still had to add a coupler to get it to work right. (could have been user error). All i know is that your welding needs to be spot on, and your motor can not move much at all.

I decided not to deal with the headache and just use couplers. I'm not going for 40+ psi, anything under that its just for show.

They do look awesome tho...
LPS fab
vibrant
wiggins. etc
I'm looking for 45-55psi. This isn't a normal street build. It's about bling as well as function. Motor is solid mounted in the front, it ain't moving.
 
I’ve seen them break, and I haven’t blown a coupler and worm clamp at 45psi.
How the f*** did you get a worm clamp to hold 45 psi? I can barely get the one on my BLT to hold 20psi. I really need to order a t-bolt to replace it.

Oh nvm


http://www.breezehoseclamps.com/breeze/constant-torque/

heavy duty, constant tension worm clamp. held 50psi so far. also held a nitrous backfire that blew a coupler into shreds.

alphaloc look sweet and have had good reviews. lots of documented vibrant issues. wouldn't trust the cheap ebay at all

I had those on my Mazdaspeed Miata, I thought it was cheapness on part of the Previous owner (or flying miata) since it had a flying miata hard pipe kit on it. But if they hold boost, they hold boost.
 
If your pipes fit properly and have beads there is no reason an autozone worm clamp won’t hold all the boost with a good coupler. Most people blowing couplers have crap fitment and old oily couplers.
 
If your pipes fit properly and have beads there is no reason an autozone worm clamp won’t hold all the boost with a good coupler. Most people blowing couplers have crap fitment and old oily couplers.
Ive blown boost leak testers off pte turbos with a lip’d inlet. Used worm clamps.:idontknow: The problem is you can’t tighten them as mich as a T bolt cause they usually break for me with a larger amount of tension, where with t bolt I can rachet it to hell
 
If the coupler is pliable you don’t need to tighten them much. They compress the coupler and it ends up getting stuck on the bead. The bead should be as high as the coupler is thick.

I really never had problems with couplers on any 1g Dsm. The angles are easy for good fitment. The ets kit on my galant Vr4 was always blowing the coupler in the passenger wheel well because the pipes didn’t meet square.
 
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