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2G Harmonic balancer bolt just came out.

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Don't get me wrong, but you can take your comment and put it back where it came from!
I didn't say I was gonna impact it on, I said "We call em Ugga Dugga's", replying to Tanro.
I don't think he even said he impacted his on, maybe you need to re-read it man.
Mine WAS torqued to factory 85 ft/lbs, not 100 or some willy nilly spec, like you, so why did it come off? Did the factory use "Red Locktite"?
Answer that one so we have some constructive stuff to consider.
 
There is no room for the sloppy shit at all. That mentality is 100% fault for decline in car culture. No patience, no pride in doing it right. Slap it together, doens't work, can't have it done tomorrow, part it out. Oh well I start on a new one, and part it out 2 weeks later again. All it results in is a bunch of parted out rollers, under-performing shitboxes, and a bunch of ruined parts. 6 bolt cranks have been NLA for about 10 yrs. How many are left in circulation? How many do we want to ruin because of lazyness.

The balancer bolt needs to be torqued. End of story. Too loose it falls out ruins the crank, and bends the valves. Too tight and it breaks lip off the timing gear. A 1/2 torque wrench is like $30 at harbor freight. No excuse. Do it right.
 
So your cure is to over tighten the bolt and slap a bunch of red Loctite all over the snout? Did I get that right? That didn't answer the question but I'll listen to you just to humor you.
Ever strip the threads in the snout of a crank?
How do you remove the gear when that time comes?
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I think a possible reason for the crank bolt coming loose may be because the washer under it may be flattened out. This washer is a Belleville lock washer. I would replace it during the repairs. You should not have to use loctite on this bolt.
 
There is no room for the sloppy sh** at all. That mentality is 100% fault for decline in car culture. No patience, no pride in doing it right. Slap it together, doens't work, can't have it done tomorrow, part it out. Oh well I start on a new one, and part it out 2 weeks later again. All it results in is a bunch of parted out rollers, under-performing sh**boxes, and a bunch of ruined parts. 6 bolt cranks have been NLA for about 10 yrs. How many are left in circulation? How many do we want to ruin because of lazyness.

The balancer bolt needs to be torqued. End of story. Too loose it falls out ruins the crank, and bends the valves. Too tight and it breaks lip off the timing gear. A 1/2 torque wrench is like $30 at harbor freight. No excuse. Do it right.

I mean the sarcasm clearly flew right over your head. It was a f***ing joke. Get the sand out your vagina before it turns into a f***ing pearl you over sensitive jackass.

Yes you can spend the time to drill some holes in a piece of bar stock with a notch cut out of it. Or you can just put the f***ing wheels on the ground.

Here's the tool your talking about, its literally just a piece of bar stock with some holes in it.
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Get over yourself kid. I've been around the block a couple times, I know what works and what doesn't well enough to keep the sueyoos and sinchyus outta my shop.
 
I really don't care if it was sarcasm, we don't even need a mention of those idiots around here. Just the fact you mentioned them is too close to behaving like them.

When you start running the car outside of what it was designed for, the oem specs do not always work. Loctite does help in this case. Obviously, it's not a whole tube, nor is it slathered on. Remember, I'm not the one with the issues here. I had it happen once a long time ago, and then learned a solution. Anyway, I keep track of what I do and what the results are. 100 ft*lbs and red loctite works. That's a lot more scientific than an ugga dugga.

You guys forget if you have a working damper, that crank sprocket may be transmitting 1000 ft*lbs from the crank to the damper. The little key will do nothing to transmit that torque - they key only indexes the sprocket. We rely on the clamp load of the bolt to keep the crank gear solid to the crank, and to transmit all that torque. Anything helps, and in this case there isn't a lot to be gained by extra torque. 25%? Whats the max torque of a M14x1.25? When I red loctite the gear to the crank I have to pull it back off and it's on there good - that adds in a lot of torque capacity. Maybe that's why people hate the ATI damper - it's hard to put on because of the press fit that actually transmits the torque. Ever take it apart and see that the crank gear has been working on the bs sprocket? That's a sign your going to have problems soon.
 
So your cure is to over tighten the bolt and slap a bunch of red Loctite all over the snout? Did I get that right? That didn't answer the question but I'll listen to you just to humor you.
Ever strip the threads in the snout of a crank?
How do you remove the gear when that time comes?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

So what are you getting at here? There seems to be a lot of judgement in this post. That's kinda shitty considering I'm not the one with bent valves. If you think what I'm doing is wrong, say so. But you better come at me with something more than an oem spec. An 800hp 4g is far from what the engineers envisioned when they figured up to oem spec.

This is not a cure - It's a requirement, when you make more power the torque capacity of the crank/gear/damper connection needs to go up. You can get that done with more bolt torque, glue, or a press fit crank gear (ATI Damper). I choose higher torque and glue because I don't think an ATI type damper works as well as a Fluidampr. I do wish I had the option for a press fit crank gear.

I'd assume yours came loose because of improper clamp load, possibly it was loose on the crank. Is your crank worn now? The bolt falling out isn't the only way this bolted joint fails. You might have a broken crank or a loose flywheel - those can contribute as well.

No - I've never stripped the threads in the crank. It would take way more than the yield strength of a 10.9 bolt to do that.

You pull the gear with a damper puller. You played with SBC's. How many had a damper that just slid on and off???

It's not wise to post a snide response when you do not have a thorough understanding of this entire system. You guys all might not like what I have to say, but that doesn't mean I'm wrong.
 
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Your post implies just using an impact. Pretty hard to get it right at the correct torque like that.

It pretty much seems like your mad because I called you out on suggesting to use an impact. Lots of young impressionable guys on here that don't know how to do things. Suggestions should never be a hack like that - they should always be the right way. Putting the car on the ground and hitting it with an impact isn't. It leads to under torquing or over torquing and breaking the gear. Why even post it if you know it's wrong.
 
Usually I lightly coat the crank snout with red loctite. I red locktite the stock bolt and torque it to like 100 ft*lbs...

What is the convention for using thread lockers, i.e. red locktite, etc. compounds? I have yet to use it once,..never actually bought one. I use Haynes manual and have never seen them mentioning the use of thread lockers. The manual says torque it to spec and that's it. The use of thread lockers sounds to me more like wearing pants and ensuring they stay on by putting both belt and suspenders on at the same time - just to make sure :D ...the only exception here would, perhaps, be when the motor cranks out a lot more hp than the standard 250hp, or whatever...

Also, I have never seen any remanents of factory thread lockers. Mitsu appears to torque their bolts to spec and leave it at that. If the crankshaft bolt comes loose, it must not have been torqued to spec, no? I would be inclined using anti-seize compound here since this bolt is exposed to outside elements and I have always had one hell of a time getting these bolts off due to the rust build up.
 
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My Mits FSM says lube with engine oil & torque to 80-94 ft.lbs. I hope you're not dry torquing.
 
My Mits FSM says lube with engine oil & torque to 80-94 ft.lbs. I hope you're not dry torquing.

I use anti-seize for anything under 30 Ft-lb and high pressure grease for anything else above that rating inside the motor. No tread-lock, locktite, etc. but would consider anti-seize for this bolt too since it is essentially grease mixed w/ copper or aluminum compound. I use a beam torque wrench which I find more accurate than clickers for this type of torque.
 
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Just turn the wheels on the ground and use a 3 inch extension and torque it properly.

You should not need lock Tite, but that's your call. 80ftlbs just doesn't magically disappear, it's not counter roational so it's not working it's way loose.

Drive the car around the block get up to operating temps, and torque the bolt.
 
I will add my .02 cents to this discussion. Some great point were raise here. I did use a lock tight on there before. Not on my own car but a customers car. I will tell how it is. I torque few things properly and that bolt at least in my shop gets hit with trusty IR gun at 150 psi air pressure. Sure you don't sit on it but you hit it few times. So far never seen a problem like this. Also never have seen stripped crank. I am sure it happens but I just never saw it. I did once screw up first few threads on gm but I cleaned the threads and it's all good. Never stripped. Cranks are made out of some hard crap and it takes a skill to strip. The reason why not torqued is because you need to hold the engine from spinning and that is usually why people don't torque them. One tech can't possily own 7 differant tools to hold the engine in place for timing belt jobs. You need to feel the gun, that's what my boss told me 11 years ago. I broke lots of crap back then with the gun. Also some of those bolts I need 3/4 gun to take off even thought the spec is like 100ft. Go figure that out. Ok flame suit is on.
 
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When I had my machine shop, air tools were only used in disassembly AFTER all bolts were broken loose and NEVER during assembly.
Tread locking of different grades on all treads and on race motors safety wire as much as possible.
It takes a lot of time but at the end it pays off.
 
It won't happen again, will it?? At least you can say you heard of it 1 other time. I was coasting down a hill at 55 mph heading to a car show when mine just shut off, no noise. Had 70# of oil pressure for the next 5 seconds or more according to my log, until I pushed in on the clutch. The log even shows me pushin on the gas and letting off then pushing further before I put it in neutral. Got towed home....my son won a trophy though!!! :ohdamn:
You sure it wasn't the 40psi you were running along with the heavy alcohol use and profanity?
 
When I had my machine shop, air tools were only used in disassembly AFTER all bolts were broken loose and NEVER during assembly.
Tread locking of different grades on all treads and on race motors safety wire as much as possible.
It takes a lot of time but at the end it pays off.
I'm putting my car back together as we speak, and I find myself putting thread-locker on a lot of stuff because why not? Maybe I'm just ignorant, but a lot of our cars have a lot of extra vibration to help the bolts come loose.

Edit: Didn't realize all the arguing in the thread before my posts (starts running).
 
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I for one dont understand the Dsmtalk reference...maybe it means if your making too much sense you belong over there? LOL.
 
Car is back together. Previous owner had 2 of those huge washers on the harmonic balancer bolt which we believe caused it to come off. Runs good after new valves.
 
This is an interesting topic...... torque vs tension. Most people believe that torquing something down to a set number is all that is required to meet specification. This is not correct. There are many variables to consider when torquing a bolt. This is a good watch
 
Just turn the wheels on the ground and use a 3 inch extension and torque it properly.

You should not need lock Tite, but that's your call. 80ftlbs just doesn't magically disappear, it's not counter roational so it's not working it's way loose.

Drive the car around the block get up to operating temps, and torque the bolt.

Just so no one gets the wrong idea.... I hope you mean use a 3 inch extension with a 22mm socket on it. Just using a 1/2 extension will not give you proper torque on the bolt. The only time I ever had one back out on me was 6 years ago when I did not know any better and did that.
 
Just so no one gets the wrong idea.... I hope you mean use a 3 inch extension with a 22mm socket on it. Just using a 1/2 extension will not give you proper torque on the bolt. The only time I ever had one back out on me was 6 years ago when I did not know any better and did that.
Could you explain further on this? I'm not sure why this is.
 
Guys.. that video that Amsrn posted.. the picture still of that guys face seems to be everyone asking questions on the tech and talk facebook group. and I'm staying right out of Marty and Curts argument... Both have points. those that run higher boost use a higher torque rating on the head bolts, why wouldn't the same be true in other places?
 
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