1G ARP Main Installation

jakk220 · May 9, 2018

Sorry for all of the threads lately, I'm just trying to cover all my bases. Anyway...

I cant remember from my last build, are you supposed to bottom out the main studs when installing them? I thought on my build we backed them out 1/4 turn before torquing them down... but I could be wrong.

Also is there a torque sequence for the 6 bolt main caps / girdle. I cant seem to find that anywhere either.... Thanks.

jakk220 · May 30, 2018

Getting ready to start building this engine this weekend. Can anyone point me in the right direction on this? Also what is the proper way to stretch them? Torque them, and then break them loose 3 times?

donniekak · May 30, 2018

If you don’t at least have a dial bore gauge to check for roundness install the stock fasteners.

That is unless the machine shop installed them and did a line hone.

motomattx · May 30, 2018

I just hand tighten them just barely tight and then install the nuts, torque them, loosen them and then torque them again, tighten them in a crisscross pattern in at least three steps to get to your final torque. Donnie is correct, you might be better off without them unless your main caps and block have been resized with them installed.

007jimmy · May 31, 2018

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I too was in the same situation not that long ago. I just decided to go the safe route and have the machine shop install/line hone my studs and girdle. I have read that people have gotten away without shop work but I'm willing to pay for piece of mind.

jakk220 · May 31, 2018

donniekak said:
If you don’t at least have a dial bore gauge to check for roundness install the stock fasteners.

That is unless the machine shop installed them and did a line hone.

He torqued them down to spec and checked them. He said an align hone was not needed. They were all within spec.

I just needed to know the torque pattern and stretch method. As well as if the studs should be bottomed out or backed out 1/4 turn.

motomattx said:
I just hand tighten them just barely tight and then install the nuts, torque them, loosen them and then torque them again, tighten them in a crisscross pattern in at least three steps to get to your final torque. Donnie is correct, you might be better off without them unless your main caps and block have been resized with them installed.

Thanks for the information. Did you start with the center cap and work your way to the outer 2?

motomattx · Jun 1, 2018

jakk220 said:
He torqued them down to spec and checked them. He said an align hone was not needed. They were all within spec.

I just needed to know the torque pattern and stretch method. As well as if the studs should be bottomed out or backed out 1/4 turn.

Thanks for the information. Did you start with the center cap and work your way to the outer 2?

Yep, exactly. You really cant use a stretch gauge on them because they are in a blind hole obviously.

jakk220 · Jun 1, 2018

motomattx said:
Yep, exactly. You really cant use a stretch gauge on them because they are in a blind hole obviously.

Thanks. If you have a sec chime in on my most recent thread. I'm trying to make sure I installed these main bearings correctly. I'm out in the garage now LOL

SasaniFab · Jun 7, 2018

I have talked to three machine shops who told me its pointless, that installing studs in the mains wont throw anything off enough to worry about line honing on a iron block 4 cylinder. When I built my engine I used a dial bore gauge with arps and stock and didn't notice much of anything. I ended up using oem main bolts as I didn't wanna take the chance despite everything I was told. I really really would like to get to the bottom of this. Is there someone who can prove this based on evidence? I understand the science behind it. The thought is the stud distorts the mains. Now can the same be said for the cylinders? Most guys switch from a bolt to a head stud. When I build my motors I torque plate the block before honing with the correct fasteners. Not everyone torque plates let alone after installing new studs. The machinist basically said I could steal your money but im wasting my time. Those iron 4 cylinder blocks are rigid and the difference is negligible. I find myself repeating things because everyone else says it. We find plenty of guys who said f it and installed them without it and were fine. Has anyone heard of someone installing these and destroyed an engine because of it?

jakk220 · Jun 7, 2018

amsrn13 said:
I have talked to three machine shops who told me its pointless, that installing studs in the mains wont throw anything off enough to worry about line honing on a iron block 4 cylinder. When I built my engine I used a dial bore gauge with arps and stock and didn't notice much of anything. I ended up using oem main bolts as I didn't wanna take the chance despite everything I was told. I really really would like to get to the bottom of this. Is there someone who can prove this based on evidence? I understand the science behind it. The thought is the stud distorts the mains. Now can the same be said for the cylinders? Most guys switch from a bolt to a head stud. When I build my motors I torque plate the block before honing with the correct fasteners. Not everyone torque plates let alone after installing new studs. The machinist basically said I could steal your money but im wasting my time. Those iron 4 cylinder blocks are rigid and the difference is negligible. I find myself repeating things because everyone else says it. We find plenty of guys who said f it and installed them without it and were fine. Has anyone heard of someone installing these and destroyed an engine because of it?

I have never personally needed to align hone any of the blocks that I have built. I have always had them checked, but none of them ever needed it. I'm sure there are some factors that go into play, such as how the engine was used and what type of failure it experienced. I could be wrong though

SasaniFab · Jun 7, 2018

As far as the installation.... Make sure you chase all the threads and blow out the holes to get all the crap out. I then install the stud handtight and measure the depth with my calipers. Then I torque them in 2-3 cycles. I think most important is making sure the caps are seated properly. If I remember correctly I seated the cap with bolts first.....basically tapping the cap with a handle until all the bolts screwed in without much effort. Then I removed them and installed the stud.

jakk220 · Jun 7, 2018

That's pretty much what I did. I did mine 20-40-60. I also untorqued them 2 times to stretch them.

streetraceboi · Jun 8, 2018

amsrn13 said:
I have talked to three machine shops who told me its pointless, that installing studs in the mains wont throw anything off enough to worry about line honing on a iron block 4 cylinder. When I built my engine I used a dial bore gauge with arps and stock and didn't notice much of anything. I ended up using oem main bolts as I didn't wanna take the chance despite everything I was told. I really really would like to get to the bottom of this. Is there someone who can prove this based on evidence? I understand the science behind it. The thought is the stud distorts the mains. Now can the same be said for the cylinders? Most guys switch from a bolt to a head stud. When I build my motors I torque plate the block before honing with the correct fasteners. Not everyone torque plates let alone after installing new studs. The machinist basically said I could steal your money but im wasting my time. Those iron 4 cylinder blocks are rigid and the difference is negligible. I find myself repeating things because everyone else says it. We find plenty of guys who said f it and installed them without it and were fine. Has anyone heard of someone installing these and destroyed an engine because of it?

My machine shop told me the same thing. So going off their word I assemble it and 40k miles of abuse never had an issue. I mean for some its a good piece of mine, but when my trusted machine shop says its not needed...I took their word since they build race motors on the daily.

Biddy420 · Jun 8, 2018

My machine shop line honed mine because of the arp studs. But at same time I paid them to blueprint the motor for peace of mind.

The Top DSM Community on the Web

1G ARP Main Installation

jakk220

jakk220

donniekak

motomattx

007jimmy

jakk220

motomattx

jakk220

SasaniFab

jakk220

SasaniFab

jakk220

streetraceboi

Biddy420

Similar threads

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds