screwlegg
5+ Year Contributor
- 34
- 0
- Jan 27, 2018
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Sebring,
Florida
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any opinions on how I should clean the block so I can put on another head gasket. It’s pretty bad I know!Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
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Die grinder
Die grinder
I do hope that was a joke.
OP, I'd start with a soft wire brush and razor blades. Once you have most of the crap off, then use a straight edge and feeler gauge and check for surface level variance.
You could also use a flat stone and wet sand (otherwise known as "lapping") the block to get rid of minor imperfections.
Or just take it to a machine shop and let them take care of it.
there is a crap ton of rust in the water jackets, all that will end up in your oil and cause some problems.
I do hope that was a joke.
OP, I'd start with a soft wire brush and razor blades. Once you have most of the crap off, then use a straight edge and feeler gauge and check for surface level variance.
You could also use a flat stone and wet sand (otherwise known as "lapping") the block to get rid of minor imperfections.
Or just take it to a machine shop and let them take care of it.
The rust from your water jackets will not end up in your oil. Stuff some lint free clean rags in the passages and clean and prep the surface for the new head gasket (if you want to assemble it as is). But you really should remove the block break it down and have it hot Tanked and cleaned. Good luck.
Not trying to be a jerk, but what do you intend to do with that block?
There is a crap ton of rust in the water jackets, all that will end up in your oil and cause some problems. Looks like a valve hit the piston too.
Will it scratch the surface. I never used one before
I do hope that was a joke.
OP, I'd start with a soft wire brush and razor blades. Once you have most of the crap off, then use a straight edge and feeler gauge and check for surface level variance.
You could also use a flat stone and wet sand (otherwise known as "lapping") the block to get rid of minor imperfections.
Or just take it to a machine shop and let them take care of it.
If you're going to pull the the block and disassemble you might as well freshen it up with new rings and bearings and have The Machinist check all the measurements and clearances.Thanks for the input. I just might take the block off since I’m already there, not sure yet tho.
I think he's referring to the valve relief on the top cylinder in your picture. It looks to me like it's just carbon that is flaked off, but hard to tell from picture on the internet. Test the head with water and compressed air. To see if all the valves are seating correctly. See Link.Where does it look like a valve hit a piston at?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.any opinions on how I should clean the block so I can put on another head gasket. It’s pretty bad I know!
If you're going to pull the the block and disassemble you might as well freshen it up with new rings and bearings and have The Machinist check all the measurements and clearances.
I think he's referring to the valve relief on the top cylinder in your picture. It looks to me like it's just carbon that is flaked off, but hard to tell from picture on the internet. Test the head with water and compressed air. To make sure correctly. See Link.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-fluid-test-a-4g63-cylinder-head.420313/.
Yes the top piston in your picture and the top left valve relief. But like I said it's hard to tell from a picture on the internet.Are u talking about the first piston(left valve release)
Yes the top piston in your picture and the top left valve relief. But like I said it's hard to tell from a picture on the internet.
The rust from your water jackets will not end up in your oil. Stuff some lint free clean rags in the passages and cylinders and clean and prep the surface for the new head gasket (if you want to assemble it as is) clean out cylinders and debris. But you really should remove the block break it down and have it hot Tanked and cleaned. Good luck.
Do the test I linked buy bogus SVO to see if the valves are bent and not sealing in the seat correctly.
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I can't tell if that is carbon or an indent.
My point was, if you are going to do all the work, it would be silly to leave all that debris in there. Clearly crap has fallen into the cylinders, what has fallen into the jackets we can't see? There is no filter on the coolant system, so that stuff will just circulate until it sticks somewhere or eats the water pump blades. About 2 hours more work and you can have the thing out and completely torn apart. That way you can get it to a machine shop and have it cleaned and freshened up.
For the cheap way, a shop vac, compressed, my aforementioned sift brushes and razor blades, and some good old elbow grease is your lowest buck, quickest option that's effective. If you're worried about the water jackets, get some bottle bore brushes with chuck attachments and clean them out with a drill. Then just exchange the coolant once or twice.
This will get it clean enough for a composite HG as long as there are no big gouges or dings. Frankly, die grinders, roloc wheels etc are risky if you've never used them for that reason, it's easy to take more off than you want.
It does, but I'm pretty sure we all know that he's just going to slap it back together and hope. Just trying to give him the best half measure way to do it.From the pics that block needs washed, bored/honed, and decked.