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1990 Eagle Talon Sleeper

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While we were waiting on the bearings for the center diff, we knock out some other tasks that we had on our plate.

The Brake and Clutch master cylinders where rebuild about 10,000 miles ago but you couldn’t tell that from the way that they look. Just like everything else going into the bay, they need a makeover.

Soon, I tore them down

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Along with the masters, the knuckles where in dire need of some TLC so I broke those down as well. This process is covered in a previous posts.

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I also broke down the brake calipers and gathered up some other loose parts for powder prep.

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And here is all the new shininess.....

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First I reassembled the masters.....

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Then I cleaned all the old grease out of wheel bearings and repacked them with new grease.

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I then used a piece out of the wheel bearing press set rent a tool to press on the outside race of the bearing for installation.

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After that, I installed the snap ring, new seal, dust shield and spindle to complete the assembly. The assembly and disassembly of these knuckles has been covered in detail in a previous post.

Since the booster has a diaphragm, I painted it and then installed the rebuilt master and the booster to the firewall.

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I also painted the proportioning valve because I was unsure about heating it for powder. Here it is installed.

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Next up, it was time for me to try my first two coat powder. This is illusion blueberry from prismatic powders. It requires a clear for the color to come out of the base. Anyway, I gave it a shot.

Prepping for base

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This is the base applied and partially baked. See how the color is barely visible......

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This is after the clear is applied and a full cure at 355* for 18 minutes. This is what the cure sheet calls for.

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Now its time to rebuild these things. I picked up some rebuild kits from RockAuto. This process is pretty simple and details can be found in the FSM.

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And they are done...

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More to come,
Happy Boosting
 
With the hubs reassembled, it was time to put some things back into this wheel well.

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I cleaned and installed the knuckle assembly, shock, inner fender and various other items.

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The sway bar needs to go in before we go much further.

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I used an extension and a floor jack to press the brackets into place and start the bolts.

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Next up, it was time to install the manual steering rack. I cleaned it up and used dielectric grease on the bushings.

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The inner tie rods, bellows and butter tie rods where shot so we rebuilt the rack with all new materials.

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After the rack was rebuilt, we installed the Raxles.

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The transfer case needed to be installed but the driveshaft yoke needed to be addressed from years of being in the elements.

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Since I purchased complete yokes when I rebuilt my driveshaft, I just used one of the spare yokes I had in the parts bin to replace it.

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Up next, we cleaned up the transfer case. I wasn’t horrible but it wasn’t up to par for the build.

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After the same paint treatment that the trans got, this is what it looked like.

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After the paint dried, I installed the inspection cover and I installed the transfer with some grease on the splines.

The last thing to finish up under the car was to install the lateral bars. I bought this kit from Volk Metal Works @99gst_racer. This product is a piece of art that compliments the work I have put into the bay.

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Some people have noted having problems on a 1990. This is a 1990 and the crossmember installed perfectly using the 347 mount.

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With the underside complete, I threw on the brake caliper, new pads and freshly surfaced rotor. It clashes with the red shock but I can live with it for now.

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Since we have been dealing with the driveline, I also thought of the clutch pedal assembly. Mine did not seem to have any play but I wanted some insurance. I ordered the clutch pedal assembly bushing from JNZtuning and swapped it out for the plastic one that could melt when welding the assembly.

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I then had the nut welded up and reassembled the rest of the assembly.

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Now all I have to do is throw this on the car and I should have to worry about it.

Happy Boosting
 
Paul,

Thank you for the kind words.

I just went out and snapped this photo of the rear motor mount.

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You can use whatever pictures you like for your product advertisement. All of these images have been greatly reduced in size and quality. If you want, I have full quality images of everything that I have posted as well as others that I have not posted. Let me know what you need and I will send them over in an email.
 
I have not yet driven one with a manual rack. It is suppose to be better than a depowered rack so we shall see.

Robert
 
Its time to brake open some more of these 3 year old brand new parts that I have been hoarding and moving around the country.

With the driveline pretty much done at this point, we move on to other task like mocking up the new radiator, intercooler, turbo and manifold.

It’s like Christmas all over again so I reach for the biggest box first.

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This is what a new ETS Race intercooler kit looks like all packaged up. In a matter of minutes........

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I can attest to the quality of this kit by simply holding one of the intercooler pipes. You can tell a vast difference between the materials in this kit compared to the one that I currently have. I’m not bashing the one that I was using as it served its purpose and got me this far, I am simply recognizing the quality of a superb product that I am happy I purchased.

Next we unbox the new radiator. There is nothing wrong with the stock unit but its looks are not up to par for the current build. I did have cooling issues at one point with the car so thats the excuse for this new AFCO unit. A big thanks goes out to @gofer for doing the leg work and posting the part number for this unit. This is an AFCO 80107N.

I placed it in position to get an idea of what needed to happen.

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Next we pulled out the manifold. I purchased this from punishment racing years ago. I will say this, I had to send the first manifold back due to poor looking welds and lack of finish work on the transitions. I did receive another manifold in a short time that was much better than the first product. Here is the one that I currently have.

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The last piece to this puzzle is the Turbo. I purchased one used and had it sent to @JusMX141 for a checkup and rebuild. I have had this part for the better part of three years as well. Its an HX40 in the BEB T3 housing.

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I loosely bolted these items up to see what kind of clearance we had. As it turns out, there is a ton of room for fun activities with the new radiator location.

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To make room for a pusher fan and to get the radiator to sit where I wanted, I decided to remove the hood latch/support. This allows me to set the radiator in flush with the lower frame rail.

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With a solid plan in place, we installed a few other odds and ends.

The oil cooler was cleaned just like it was in the oil cooler relocation video and installed using the same hardware as before.

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Next up it was time to find the battery a new home. I picked up a used JMF battery bracket for pretty cheap so in she went.

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After a quick glimpse, I noticed that I cut out the bracket on the firewall that this unit is suppose to utilize so I had to come up with another way.

I ended up using a small piece of the aluminum strap from the ETS intercooler kit to make an extension up to a threaded hole that I left in the firewall for the battery relocation. It turned out pretty good and its not going anywhere. I did pull the bolts back out and paint them but this is how it sits.

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Next I installed the TB and TB elbow along with the IAT.

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This is what the bay looks like with the misc stuff installed. The turbo and all has been pulled back out for powder coating prep.

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I knew that I lost my mind when I painted the starter and since I painted it, here is a picture of it installed.

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I also threw the fuel filter onto the firewall and installed the throttle cable for good measure.

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I started the prep for the valve cover. After blasting the valve cover, I drilled out the baffles and this is what I found. I blasted it first just to see the amount of junk trapped underneath afterwards.

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Thats it for this post, I am almost at the picture limit. Another post coming soon.

Happy Boosting
 
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And just like that, it’s time for another episode.

I finished the prep for the valve cover and compressor housing by blasting them again and polishing the letters. For the valve cover, I made a baffle out of aluminum using the stock baffle as a template. I only made it to cover the openings for the PCV and Catch Can and had it tacked into the valve cover.

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After that, I coated the two part with the same two coat process used on the brake calipers. The only exception is that I used a wet finger to wipe the powder off of the polished letters. This is the result.

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I was super excited about the outcome and couldn’t be happier. There are some imperfections but not bad for my second try at the 2 coat process using hobbies equipment.

I installed them on the motor. The valve cover received stainless steel bolts to really accent the color.

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With the compressor installed, I loosely installed all the intercooler pipes to finish fit the radiator and intercooler.

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To install the radiator, I drilled new holes and installed rivnuts to utilize the lower brackets that came installed on the radiator.

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I then drilled holes and installed rubber grommets to prevent metal on metal contact. I did this on the lower mounts and the upper tabs that we had installed.
I had upper tabs welded on to utilize the AC condenser mounting points to securely mount the new radiator.

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This is the radiator bolted up and installed.

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Next we tightened the clamps on the intercooler and began to make our straps to hang the core from. I also threw the slim fan in there to make sure that we had clearance. After a short time, this is what we came up with.

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During all this, I had to trim a bracket and I burned up some of the paint. In an attempt at a quick fix, I used some spray can white to try and hide my mistake...... lets just say that didn’t work.

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I ended up going back to the folks at single source and having them mix up 6 ounces of the polar white in a single stage paint for touch up purposes. They also sell this neat aerosol kit that is perfect for touch up work so I pick up one of those as well.

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After preping and spraying the spot, this was the outcome. I was pretty happy with it.

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With the intercooler mounted, I final installed the exhaust manifold. I used metal free anti seize on all of my exhaust parts because I have had awesome success with this stuff on the hot side.

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I have to order a T3 gasket but with the bolts snug, I was able to redo the turbo oil drain using the drain from the HX35 that we made in a previous video. All I had to do was cut off the existing hose and replace it with a slightly longer piece.

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Another part that I coated along with the Valve cover was the Slave cylinder. It was rebuilt a short time ago so we coated it and rebuilt it using the existing parts which where in great shape.

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I applied some grease to the shift fork and installed it.

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The CAS couldn’t be coated so I painted it using the same paint as the transmission and installed it. When installing it, I replaced the O-ring and insured that the alignment marks where correct when installing the CAS.

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That pretty much wraps it up. Here is a shot of where we are ending.

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And one Glamor shot of the Compressor Cover just cause......

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Thats it for this one.

Happy Boosting
 
And just like that, it’s time for another episode.

I finished the prep for the valve cover and compressor housing by blasting them again and polishing the letters. For the valve cover, I made a baffle out of aluminum using the stock baffle as a template. I only made it to cover the openings for the PCV and Catch Can and had it tacked into the valve cover.

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After that, I coated the two part with the same two coat process used on the brake calipers. The only exception is that I used a wet finger to wipe the powder off of the polished letters. This is the result.

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I was super excited about the outcome and couldn’t be happier. There are some imperfections but not bad for my second try at the 2 coat process using hobbies equipment.

I installed them on the motor. The valve cover received stainless steel bolts to really accent the color.

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With the compressor installed, I loosely installed all the intercooler pipes to finish fit the radiator and intercooler.

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To install the radiator, I drilled new holes and installed rivnuts to utilize the lower brackets that came installed on the radiator.

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I then drilled holes and installed rubber grommets to prevent metal on metal contact. I did this on the lower mounts and the upper tabs that we had installed.
I had upper tabs welded on to utilize the AC condenser mounting points to securely mount the new radiator.

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This is the radiator bolted up and installed.

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Next we tightened the clamps on the intercooler and began to make our straps to hang the core from. I also threw the slim fan in there to make sure that we had clearance. After a short time, this is what we came up with.

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During all this, I had to trim a bracket and I burned up some of the paint. In an attempt at a quick fix, I used some spray can white to try and hide my mistake...... lets just say that didn’t work.

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I ended up going back to the folks at single source and having them mix up 6 ounces of the polar white in a single stage paint for touch up purposes. They also sell this neat aerosol kit that is perfect for touch up work so I pick up one of those as well.

View attachment 538840

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After preping and spraying the spot, this was the outcome. I was pretty happy with it.

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With the intercooler mounted, I final installed the exhaust manifold. I used metal free anti seize on all of my exhaust parts because I have had awesome success with this stuff on the hot side.

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I have to order a T3 gasket but with the bolts snug, I was able to redo the turbo oil drain using the drain from the HX35 that we made in a previous video. All I had to do was cut off the existing hose and replace it with a slightly longer piece.

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Another part that I coated along with the Valve cover was the Slave cylinder. It was rebuilt a short time ago so we coated it and rebuilt it using the existing parts which where in great shape.

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I applied some grease to the shift fork and installed it.

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The CAS couldn’t be coated so I painted it using the same paint as the transmission and installed it. When installing it, I replaced the O-ring and insured that the alignment marks where correct when installing the CAS.

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That pretty much wraps it up. Here is a shot of where we are ending.

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And one Glamor shot of the Compressor Cover just cause......

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Thats it for this one.

Happy Boosting
Looking good bro, it’s crazy our builds are very similar. Keep up the good work
 
Is it weird that read everything in your accent as if I were watching your YouTube channel? L O L
 
What Fmic size did you go with.

I bought this some time ago but I believe it' a 3.5 in race core.

Is it weird that read everything in your accent as if I were watching your YouTube channel? L O L

As long as it' your best impression and nothing less. I wish I had the time to continue the ideos but it just takes too much time. The sheer amount of editing time is rediculous.
 
hey Robert where are you mounting your afpr and are you running stock lines or an from the tank to the filter.
 
Work took me out of the loop for a while but I’m back and right back at it. We left on a good note but there is still a lot of small loose ends that I need to tie up.

I ordered a bunch of small items and installed them when they arrived. These BSPT plugs seal up some holes in the thermostat housing.

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I only mocked up the turbo when I left because I did not have a gasket. This MLS T3 gasket arrived so I slid it in there. For fasteners, I used some 10.9 grade bolts with two OEM conical washers on each bolt covered in some metal free anti-seize.... we shall see if they stand the test of time.

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The shifter bushings on the shift cable bracket that is bolted to the transmission were toast. I ordered two new sets of OEM bushings to replace them and finish the shifter cable install.

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Next up was the purple Tial 38mm waste gate. There is nothing wrong with the gate and it has served me well but there is no way I can put a purple gate into my engine bay. I also could justify buying a new one so I tore it down to the body and powder coated it.

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The Diaphragm looked to be fine from the top but when I pulled it out, you could see orange rubber in the base of the gate. Upon further inspection, it was obvious that the diaphragm was on its way out. I ran this gate for four years and never noticed any issues and I bought this thing used eight years ago so its fair to say that it lasted at least 10 years.

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I purchased a new diaphragm from extremePSI

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threw it in the gate and admired my handy work

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Then I quickly installed it onto the car

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Next up was the Ol Calan catch can. It has seen better days for sure and again, I had to bring this thing up to my new engine bays standards. Its been thrown around and beat up pretty good. Here is the start of the madness

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And the results....

I used 320 then 600 grit wet sand paper followed by a series of green, white and red polishing rouges on different wheels from ACE hardware. I must say it turned out pretty nice and I was satisfied.

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Since the old AFPR was red, I picked up a new one and plan to re purpose the old one. I grabbed a few color matching fittings, installed a gauge and used rivnuts to mount the unit in a suitable location on the firewall. I did have to modify the stock bracket slightly but I got it to work.

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Next up I needed to solve the issue of no brake lines. I had grand plans when I welded up all the holes for the stock lines and to be honest, they required way more work than I am currently willing to do. So, this is what I came up with.

I had four lines made at a local Hydraulic shop. One is -4an steel braided to feed the turbo from the OFH. The other three houses are steel braided wrapped in a teflon coating. These will be used for my Clutch master to slave and both front brake lines. The material of the house should keep them from eating away at the finishes inside the bay. All that was left to purchase where some m10x1.0x20mm banjos for the brake calipers and slave.

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I have ordered some stainless materials to wrap up the exhaust, got some fluids on order and sent my 2150’s to FIC for a checkup. More to come.....

Happy Boosting
 
hey Robert where are you mounting your afpr and are you running stock lines or an from the tank to the filter.

Just got done with a post that shows you the AFPR location. If you look back at the dual fuel pump hanger video, you will see all of the fuel lines and how I ran them. I currently run two 6an’s that Y into an 8 AN that goes all the way to the rail.

Robert
 
Oh great that's nice I'm doing a build now and I'm in my bay working on It, following closely to get it to look up to par. I just made my hx40 12 an fittings too all set up it looks good, no kinks, ill post pics of it soon. again keep up the attention to detail and quality, between this build an erics 2g Ive learned so much. Victor
 
There are a couple projects going on in the garage right now so we will separate them into their own posts just to keep things organized. In this episode, we move inside the car. At first glance it really does look horrible.

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We already know that there will be no ac in this thing but I really would like to keep the heat for those frosty spirited drives. We start flushing the heater core with CLR. There was some really nasty stuff that came out of this 28 year old core but she should be good now.

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Next I need some nifty way to fill this gap between the fan motor and heater core......

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To shed the weight of the AC but keep the heater, I decided to gut the AC portion.

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I then filled all the unnecessary holes with spray foam and cut the excess with a hacksaw blade.

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After that, I slapped it in and tightened all three pieces down.

The next job was happening during a couple other projects but I got the parts in for the exhaust and who doesn’t want to break up a wiring job with a little fabrication?

Here are some of the materials. It all came from ATP and Ace Race Parts.

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The plan is the join the existing down pipe to the turbo using pie cuts. Now I had never done this before so I watched a few videos and read a little about the process. I started by marking the pipe 180 of each other by using pie and some other fancy math.

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I then made a few test pieces using some mild steel pipe. What do you know, they turned out pretty good.

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With good test results, I moved on to the stainless pipe. I purchased a bend hoping that would work but it wasn’t tight enough so all pie cuts it is.

I used a chop saw with an abrasive blade. To line up the marks on the pipe, I used an old 1x2 and made my cuts.

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After a short time I had something faced up.

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I tacked it all up and the put it on the car for a final fit up.

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I noticed the clearance between the oil filter but at the time I was excited for what I had built. I would go to bed worrying about heat and the nuisance it would be to remove the down pipe for an oil change.

With these thoughts, I would spend the next couple afternoons cutting this down pipe apart and making another, more complex section.

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This pipe completely clears the oil filter. It is closer to the intercooler coupler than I would like but there are other ways to deal with that. Heat shields, heat wrap or using some of the space we gained by moving the radiator should all make that couple last and keep intake temps down.

I take it all up and this is what I got.

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I’ll get this welded up, install the 02 sensor and make the dump tube.

Thats all for this episode.... until next time

Happy Boosting
 
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With the bay wrapped up, its time to start the dreaded wiring job.

I removed these harnesses 4 years ago but luckily I labeled every plug when I removed them. I had plans to re route the wires so I took precautions to try and aid that process.

This is what I pulled out of the tote.

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I started by separating wires, deleting circuits I knew I wouldn’t use and scratching my head a lot. I used a lot of references and online materials to identify certain plugs and connections. The FSM is also playing a huge role in this project.

I used a notebook to take copious notes. This is both harnesses labeled and thinned out.

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Next I had some help and we separated all the connections on one harness. I used numbers to label each wire before cutting.

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Since this fuse box is going inside the car in the glove box, all of these wires will require some modification. I will admit this now..... you should cut the wires another foot or two longer on the fusebox side and you will see why in a minute.

With the wires cut, we start placing the plugs where they are suppose to go and getting an idea on how we want to run things.

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With the plugs in place, it was time to mount the fusebox. I used some old metal and a few spare bolts.

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With this in place, I started making my runs of wires. I used all SXL and TXL wire rated for higher temps to withstand the engine bay and resist premature failure. I am also utilizing connectors called Crimp, Solder and Seal connectors. These connectors allow you to make a physical connection, solder the joint and heat shrink it all in one connector. There have been pull test that show the wire breaking before this connection and since so many people argue about solder joints fatiguing and butt joints failing, I chose to just use both.

Here is one of the connectors. Do you see the solder ring around the butt connector. It melts seconds after the heat shrink and flows into the joint.

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I came up with the new routing for the wires and many hours later, this is the completed chassis harness.

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For the electrical tape holding the harness together, I used Scotch 33 plus. For all other taping, I will be utilizing fusion tape.

Here is how the harness is laid out.

We have the fuse box that is mounted in the glove box where all of the wires meet and join.


Now you can clearly see why the wires needed to be longer. All of my connections had to be made inside the glove box but if they where a couple feet longer they would have been made under the dash.

I thought about using a bulkhead here but nothing I found really gave me a warm and fuzzy so I just drilled two holes and applied rubber grommets to them.

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The back side of the fuse box shows you a few wires that have not yet been connected. These are all for the alternator and since that has been relocated to the rear of the engine, those will come in through the firewall with the engine harness.

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Any time a wire was removed at a junction, all the factory tape was removed and the wire was cut as close to that junction as possible. Any factory junction that was opened up was re tapped with fusion tape.

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This section of the wiring harness will rest behind the ECU. Those loose wires are wires for the Boost Control Solenoid, Relay grounds from the fuse box, Fog light ground and Reverse light switch wire.

The relay grounds used to ground just outside the relay box in the engine bay. now those have been extended to ground by the ECU. The reverse light will hide better coming through the engine harness hole in the firewall and the BCS will go right into the ECU. The stock fog lights were wired from the factory to only come on with the low beam headlights on by wiring the relay to the switched low beam ground. I just removed that ground path and plan to ground the fog light relay with the other relay grounds. This should allow me to operate foglight at any time by pressing the fog light switch in the dash.

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Here are all the connections that go the the junction box by the drivers side kick panel. The one loose wire in the bottom right goes to the alternator wiring.

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Now we go out into the fender well using the stock grommet. I routed the wires into the fender well.

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Now we go through another stock opening to the pop up motor and chassis ground. The wires hide behind the pop up motor and go out the hole where the blinker wires used to go. The wires are then fed behind the headlight and in front of the radiator support.

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The loose red wire with the yellow and blue wire on the right had side is the wire that will hopefully provide power using the fog light switch. The bulk of the wires at the top of the page will be mounted to the front of the radiator support behind the intercooler.

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The radiator fan connection is next and will come out of the harness between the intercooler and radiator fan. I had no intentions of welding a bung into my radiator for the fan temp sensor. My plan is to utilize one of the ports on the thermostat housing to place the sensor in.

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Lastly we make it to the passenger side head light, blinkers, turn signals, pop up motor and chassis ground. That pretty much wraps up this harness. It’s 16 foot long from one end to the other.

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Here are all the circuits that I removed.
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I had plans to post multiple pictures of notes I had taken of deleted circuits but I have hit my 20 image limit. I then thought about listing all the circuits I deleted but its late and I have work in the am.

This picture will give you an idea of the notes that I took should I have to trouble shoot something in the future.

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I tried to make it simple by leaving the stock colored wires on each end of the connections. in most cases, I was able to do that. All wire length adjustments were done in the middle of the wire. Hopefully these connectors will stand the test of time. For now, its on to the next one..... time for the engine harness.

Happy Boosting.
 
I have completed a lot of work up until this point so the next few posts will be catching up to the current status.

With the harness tapped together on the floor, I wrapped it in Techflex split loom. Sleeving is a much better option however I am using some of the stock harness which has junctions so I could not use it. Instead I chose Techflex in the 3/4 1/2 3/8 1/4 and 1/8in sizes for a majority of the main harness.

After I installed the loom and secured it with fusion tape I routed the harness back through the car. Here is how it looks.

The fuse box is sitting in the floor board and the harness is secured to the HVAC boxes using existing holes and zip ties. The harness routes loosely behind the ECU and comes out under the ECU.

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Four of the relay grounds in the fuse box are grounded to one of the bottom bolts in the radio bracket. These bottom bolts go into a piece of metal that is welded to the chassis.

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There is a lot going on in the next picture. I’m just showing you the path for the harness. The picture isn’t the best but you get the idea. All the hanging wires will be explained later.

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That entire harness exits the through the hole behind the fuse panel. I secured the harness using rivnuts in existing holes and clamps. You can also see one of the grounds for the circuits on the driver side of the harness.

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All wires are routed through another existing hole behind the headlight motor out of sight. They then exit one hole and go in behind the headlight. The marker lights, blinkers and horn get dropped off here.
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The harness is secured and routed behind the headlight where the headlight and front marker lights are dropped off.

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Shortly after the harness emerges from behind the headlight, the BCS and oil pressure sensor wires exit the harness. The BCS solenoid would not fit through all the holes when removing the harness the first time so it was cut and a wether pack was installed to connect it. All these wires also receive the sleeving to protect them against the heat of the downpipes in this location.

The red wire you see hiding to the left is the power wire for the fog lights. The way its wired, the fog lights should turn on and off whenever you push the button.

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The wires are then secured behind the intercooler to the radiator support. I again used existing threaded holes and rivnuts.

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The wires come out from behind the intercooler and route behind the passenger headlight. The blinkers and side markers are routed through the passenger fender. The horn wires also drop down here.

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The ground and the headlight motor wires split behind the headlight.

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The radiator that I used did not have a bung for the radiator fan switch. I had some open ports on the lower thermostat housing so I slammed it in there and ran some more wires. The radiator fan switch is the connecter between the upper radiator hose and the intercooler pipe. Its routed back along the engine harness (explained later), down with the reverse light switch and under the frame where it connects to the radiator fan.

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The wideband also follows the same routing path as the main harness through the driver side fender. I mounted the controllers using an oversized clamp and tape.

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Thats pretty much it for that harness and the extra circuits that follow its routing path.

Next up its time to start the engine harness but before that can happen, I need to install the fuel injectors. I pulled my 2150’s over 4 years ago. I made a video and pickled those injectors using the method that FIC posted. I sent them out just to verify their condition and wouldn’t you know it, the process really works. They didn't even need a cleaning.

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While I was taking a needed brake from wiring, I welded up and installed the down pipe. While I would love to take credit for all the welding, I did 70% or so. Some spots where giving me a lot of issues and I was fortunate enough to have a buddy finish it up.

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With that out of the way, I started on the engine harness. I drilled two 1 1/4 holes side by side to pass the harness through. I purchased firewall groumets that required this size hole. The reason for two is simple it allows me to pass large connectors through and then slide the wires to the other hole. This makes installing and removing the harness possible. It also allows me to run large power wires separate from the engine harness.

I ran all the wires through the firewall and split them up the way I thought I wanted them to go.

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Passenger side = CAS, IAC, Coolant Temp Sensor, IAT, MAP, Wiper Motor, Reverse light switch and TPS
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Injectors, Noise Filter, Coilpack and Chassis ground

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The knock sensor and starter wire are under the intake manifold. Thats it for now as I am at my 20 photo limit.

Happy Boosting
 
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Build is amazing, great minds think alike. I routed my wiring harness in a similar fashion. I will be posting a build update so you should check it out. Keep up the good work.
 
Great thread here, I have not finished reading it all yet but I'm going to watch this thread for sure, I love these sorts of builds, the attention to detail, so far looks immaculate, I also love your youtube videos vary good work, this makes me want to dust off my 90 awd talon and get back into my dsm again, although I barley scratched the surface first time around LOL but hey thats what long term builds are for... ...One day I'll get back to that car maybe when I finish building my garage, in the meantime I have been collecting parts to mod it in the future any more updates on this build keep em coming.
 
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