Before I even get started let me state; I'm not looking to receive replies telling me I'm an idiot for even thinking that I could do such a thing and I should just send it to a reputable transmission company to have them do the job. I'm fully aware of the knowledge and experience that each company has and know that either of them will do a great job.
This post is more along the lines of where would I be able to find the necessary parts, i.e. EVO III gears, syncros, shift forks, taller 5th gear, and any of the obvious parts that would allow me to attempt build a similar transmission that I could buy from one of the best shops known for their great work. This build would be a project that I would take the necessary time to research and properly assemble to proper specs. I've had experience with Civic manual transmission rebuilds so I understand the tedious attention to detail the work requires. FWD and AWD are 2 totally different beast and failure is always a risk when doing such jobs.
I'm looking for those who may or do know where the best internal parts for a DSM 5 speed transmission could be bought.
Again I hope someone else has at least attempted this and will know where and or if buying the necessary parts could be found.
Thank you
Matthew Brooks
865-386-9319
I'd be glad to talk or text with anyone who has had any experience in what I'm wanting to do

Good luck finding the parts for a FWD transmission they don’t make them anymore and they are harder and harder to come by. Finding evo3 gears will be your best shot and even then it’s a long shot. I recently contacted jacks and they only offer awd units that can be converted for a FWD car.

There has been a lot of write ups on how to rebuild our 5 speeds, granted mostly AWD but they are similar in terms of tedious work involved. I believe @BoostedBeaver has a write in his build thread on doing a complete transmission rebuild. And along with Jack's there is also @twicks69 (tim) to talk to about transmissions. On here he is the one to go to. From my readings/findings/understanding if there is a tranny part needed and/or hard to get he can get it for you if it's to be had. Tim would be the man to answer all your questions you may have regarding transmissions. When I'm ready for it he will be the one I go to.

I thought all the shops sell parts. Tmz does for sure. For the average car I don' see a problem. Higher power builds I do think there are some non oem specs guys use that have been proven to work. I noticed the bearing plate flexing 15 years ago and I was surprised there wasn't an aftermarket solution. Well now there is. Not sure there are many unknowns anymore. Parts swaps are common. Stock rebuild is easy just tedious.

Thanks for the great info! Now I know where to find the info I'm looking for .
Thanks
Matthew Brooks

Anything that is still available, or even obscure I still likely have or can get. Evo 3 taller 5th gearsets are all gone, you will need to find a rare used set. I still have Evo 3 1st gear and input shafts in stock and I have Evo 3 3rd/4th gearsets in stock; but the really nice forged Evo 3 3rd/4th hub and slider is gone so you need to machine a DSM 91-92 3rd/4th hub to fit and properly clear the double synchros used on the Evo 3 gearset. I still have Evo 3 3rd/4th forged shift rails as well.

Regarding transmissions, the DSM AWD trans is not bad, but it is just more complex than a Honda FWD transmission; but not impossible by any means. I have posted on here numerous times all the helpful tools, part numbers, as well as bearing shimming preload/endplay recommendations based on power levels. A simple search will find most of them with some leg work on your end.

Here's a start.

The factory service manual called for ENDPLAY on the input shaft, which is a bit goofy to do on tapered roller bearings because it did more bad than good. Do PRELOAD on the input shaft.

Stock/Street Transmissions with less than 400TQ at the crank:

Input Shaft --> 0.004" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Intermediate Shaft --> 0.005" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Center Differential --> 0.005" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Output Shaft --> 0.003" - 0.005" PRELOAD
Front Differential --> 0.002" - .0067" ENDPLAY

Street/Strip Transmissions with less than 600TQ at the crank:

Input Shaft --> 0.005" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Intermediate Shaft --> 0.007" - 0.009" PRELOAD
Center Differential --> 0.005" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Output Shaft --> 0.003" - 0.005" PRELOAD
Front Differential --> 0.002" - .0067" ENDPLAY

All out RACE Transmissions that are Rebuilt/Inspected regularly with more than 600TQ at the crank:

Input Shaft --> 0.007" PRELOAD
Intermediate Shaft --> 0.008" - 0.010" PRELOAD
Center Differential --> 0.005" - 0.007" PRELOAD
Output Shaft --> 0.004" - 0.006" PRELOAD
Front Differential --> 0.002" - .0067" ENDPLAY

For Extremely HIGH HP/TQ transmissions (As in ~900-1000+TQ at the crank):

Input Shaft --> 0.007" PRELOAD (I typically go 0.010-0.012")
Intermediate Shaft --> 0.010" - 0.012" PRELOAD (I typically go 0.012"-0.014")
Center Differential --> 0.005" - 0.007" PRELOAD (I typically go 0.007"-0.009")
Output Shaft --> 0.004" - 0.006" PRELOAD
Front Differential --> 0.002" - .0067" ENDPLAY (I typically go 0.001"-0.003" ENDPLAY)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Useful / Required Tools and other good information:

For bead blasting, after I fully degrease the transmission case and then wash it, I tape up the case and I use 36 grit aluminum oxide to take the heavy scale off the transmission case, then #8 glass bead to do finish blasting of the case. I also use the glass #8 to do clean-up work on gearsets.

For hand tools, a double-hook seal puller, roll pin punches (3/16" will be your most used), 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 24mm and 36mm sockets, magnetic pen pickup tool, pick tools, prybars, punches or air hammer with punch tool, 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches, dial or digital micrometer, digital calipers, 0.062" diameter solder, 3/32" diameter solder, side cutters, trans lube (or vasoline, or thick gear oil -- I use Petroleum Jelly that I mix with 85w140 gear oil and whip up using a drill and a beaters), dead blow hammers, 32oz smooth face/ball peen hammer, small sledge hammer (2#-5# range), needle nose pliers, snapring pliers, etc.


You will need a FSM, and access to all the shims for the 5 spots you would be reshimming. Some of the shims are still available from the dealer, and are around $7-$12 each (There are around 130 shims total). I typically STOCK every one that is still available.

As for press tools, a simple 12-ton H-frame press (you can swap out the jack for a 20-ton too), OTC 1122 (5th intermediate gear with OTC 7393 push puller) and 1123 (input shaft disassembly) splitters and Miller 9647 splitter (quickly disassembles DSM intermediate shaft clusters in 1 push from 2nd gear side) or OTC1130 splitter works too. These will easily do all the gearset disassembly.

I made my own press stands out of steel plate and square tube. You can do it other ways as well, but mine are heavy duty and work excellent.

My press stands are made with the following parts:
Short press stand -
upper plate = 5"x5"x0.5" plate
lower plate = 5"x6"x0.5" plate
square tube = 4"x4"x6" tall

Long press stand -
upper plate = 5"x5"x0.5" plate
lower plate = 5"x6"x0.5" plate
square tube = 4"x4"x9" tall

As for bearing race removal, I use a slide hammer with a thread adapter (welded a bolt to a male-to-male union) to a Miller 9664 race remover. This tool is extremely useful. You will make jobs so much easier making one.

For seal installation, I use Miller MH061400, Miller 8891, Miller MD998321, Miller MB991115 and Miller 8475 installer.

For bearing race installation for the transmission you can use a standard bearing race installer kit.

For removing and installing the shift selector needle bearings, I use Miller 8118 and 8119 tools.

For gearset assembly I have numerous press tools. These are my most used on DSM stuff - Miller 4401, 4507, 9679, 9666, 9355, 9619, 9625, 9676, 9678, 8481, etc. I have a mixture of Miller, Kent Moore and Rotunda, along with stupid-simple installers like exhaust transitions from the smallest diameter you can find (IIRC 1-5/8") to 3" diameter. I could list numerous ones that make the work alot easier to do.

Tool kits that are helpful and have alot of good tools include parts from Miller 8708 (SRT4 neon kits), Miller G238 tools and NV5600 tool kits, Miller 9675 LX AWD tools, etc. They have gone up in price lately, but just look through on Ebay for any of the Miller numbers I posted above and do some searching.


As for shims, it is easier to email it than reformat it to fit in here.

As for a factory service manual - Downloads below -
https://www.scribd.com/document/178...ft500noi&source=impactradius&medium=affiliate

I have numerous manuals in Dropbox or Google Drive, but I would need to send the files as an email.

Other info -
Torque Specifications:
Main Case Bolts 29 lb/ft
End Shaft Nuts 102 - 115 lb/ft
Poppet Plugs 18-22 lb/ft
End Cover Bolts 29 lb/ft
Reverse Gear Shaft Bolt 29 lb/ft
Reverse Shift Bracket Bolts 11 - 15 lb/ft
Reverse Shift Bracket Hex Bolt 11 - 15 lb/ft
Reverse Brake Cone Screw 4 - 5 lb/ft
Restrict Ball Bolt 22 - 25 lb/ft
Reverse Switch 22 - 25 lb/ft
Speedo Gear Retaining Bolt 3 - 5 lb/ft
Center Differential Cover Bolts 55 lb/ft

Man I greatly appreciate your info! You'll definitely be hearing from me for parts and your knowledge! Everybody that's replied I want to give a huge thank you!!

Mattjaye2198 said:

Man I greatly appreciate your info! You'll definitely be hearing from me for parts and your knowledge! Everybody that's replied I want to give a huge thank you!!

Click to expand...

This is what I do. Other than being a transmission rebuilding business, I have been on here for many many years giving my information away to those in need. Keeping this forum alive with useful technical information is important to all of us.

Thanks,

Tim Zimmer
TMZ Performance
[email protected]
www.tmzperformance.com