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Installing a staging brake on a 2G

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99gst_racer

Moderator
11,976
1,542
Apr 5, 2003
Coloma, Michigan
I'm looking for ideas of where to install a staging brake in a 2G with a complete interior. Particularly a CNC 412 staging brake. I'd love to see some pictures of where and how you mounted yours, so please post them up if you have any.

Also, regarding plumbing; it's been a while since I payed any attention to the routing of the brake lines on my 2G. If I remember correctly, each rear caliper has it own brake line from the factory proportioning valve. If so, are you guys just installing a 'T' and running a single line to and from the staging brake?

I've also heard of guys plumbing it to one front caliper and then the opposite-side rear caliper. I'm not sure if there's an advantage to this or not, and it sounds like that would require a dual cylinder brake too.

If you have one installed, I'd love to hear the details of how it's mounted and plumbed.

Thanks in advance.
 
I know you said you don't have any plumbing questions, but I on my 1g (sounds the same as your 2g), I ran all new lines inside the car, from the prop valve, I went to a T, then to the brake, then from the brack back to a T, then to the rears. Car stopped fine, I street drove it. I used the CNC brand.

Unfortunatley no pics :(

Staging brakes work awesome though for pre-loading!
 
Thanks for the post, Eric.

I'm now trying to determine if I want to plumb it to just the rear or stagger a front and rear caliper. It would be easier to go staggered from a plumbing prospective, but I kind of like the idea of only having it on the rear better. Decisions decisions...
 
Got my CNC brake mounted tonight. I ended up ordering a replacement non-chromed handle to reshape it to mimic the factory parking brake. And I had it powdercoated satin black by Justin Mohney. Turned out perfect if you ask me. It's out of the way but within arm's reach, and it looks great too. I also fabbed up a little bracket to locate the brake right where the factory assembly sat. I still need to plumb the hoses and trim a little more plastic around the pivot point, but so far so good. :)

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Wow man looks awesome! How did you end up pluming the lines?
 
And for anyone who can't view the Link forum:

Remove this brake line and route a line from here to the inlet of the staging brake. Then run a line from the outlet of the staging brake to this lower port on the proportioning valve. This should activate the passenger side front caliper and the driver side rear caliper.

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U can also mount it to the left of the council there is a small flat spot that positions it right beside the drivers seat!
 
4 years later I'm joining the club, here's a photo of it mounted to the left of the center console on the flat spot that @talon3t4 was talking about.

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I put mine in that same spot, but on a 1g. It's nice there because you are close to the shifter when you let off it, and that 1-2 shift comes up quick with stock rations and a fast car. I ran mine to the rear calipers only. I had unions in the rear brakes lines from fixing them before so it made for an easy hook up. The drawback is that it's easy to pull through the brakes like this though.
 
Plumbing is still in progress because I'm building hardlines, which I've never done, but I'm plumbing them the same way you did Paul which should lock up the front right and back left, correct?

This is the most recent with just wires mocked up so I can start bending the hardlines.

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A few reasons, nothing to do with function or cost saving's though as the hardline adventure hasn't been cheap with all the flaring tools and additional fittings. I've just always thought that braided flexible SS lines looks messy/sloppy and don't like how "slapped" together it can make things look when using a bunch of them. That and I've never made brake hardlines before so learning/trying something new was another reason.

This is what I drew up to figure out what fittings and adapters I needed to order and to get an idea of the install.


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You could install a dual handle stage brake and run a rod between both handles so they release simultaneously with each other, engaging the clutch and releasing the brakes. Think it would work? LOL

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i was gonna do a staging brake for my 2g gsx auto build but im going line lock on the front and rear, should i follow this post and do the staging brake or keep the line lock set up?
 
what type of pads, and where can i find a vacuum pump, or better yet what kind did you use
I use hawk hps 5.0 pads in the front and used some power stop z26 pads in the rear. used a Volkswagen/ audi vacuum pump and used a pressure sensor to activate it from ssbc brakes. one good piece of advice with this setup that Im running as well is to get a little heat in the pads before trying to get it to stall up as they hold better with some heat in them. also make sure you have someone that knows autos tune in the stall rpm area to take some timing out so it doesn't try to pull through the brakes.
 
Guys, wouldn't putting the line on the bottom left of the proportioning valve activate the passenger rear and the passenger front?
 
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