v8s_are_slow
20+ Year Contributor
- 2,812
- 265
- Sep 30, 2002
-
Panama City,
Florida
So to start with, I'm putting this thread here because people are gonna be asking questions or make comments I'm sure. Just don't know if people can do that in tech articles and I wanna be as open as I can about this.
So anyway, my Walbro 450 just wasn't getting the job done for me. Sure, you can punch the relief, you can get a boost-a-pump to increase the voltage which boost the output, etc., but those are things that I just don't feel comfortable with having to do, and I'm trying to put down a good amount of power. For 1g guys, they have it easy. They have a metal tank which can be modified, and the pump is already near the rear and all. 2g guys? Well, our options are limited when it comes to "good" fuel tank and fuel supply options. Sure, you can get a Fullblown, dual pump setup that drops into the stock tank but I don't like that idea. All the fuel sloshes to the back if you're launching hard and the pumps are in the front, trying to suck it up and out of the tank. STUPID Mitsubishi engineers who thought this was a good design!!!! Frontline "was" making a fuel cell but don't think they do anymore and there's just not really anyone out there doing it and not a large market for it. You could go with a Mechanical pump and buy a surge tank. But I don't really have any room behind my front bumper to mount one, no room in my engine bay, and certainly don't want it in my car where it would be bad if I were ever to get into an accident. The stock tank really limits good fuel options for awd 2g cars. You can't weld on the tank. The saddle design means you have to get fuel out of both sides, and it was really racking my brain.
So my good buddy Mike Lester from Buschur Racing and I were talking over this issue I was having and the thoughts I had in mind when he mentioned a Beans Diesel fuel sump. I was like, "what???" If you haven't heard of it (I never had), it's something the diesel guys use (duh, right?). It instantly clicked in my head and a light bulb went off. It solved my issues that I was facing and all of the debating I was having about what system to go with. Keep in mind that I have yet to put it into use yet, but I'm doing the write-up anyway. Using this piece sent from heaven above, I was able to use the stock tank, pull fuel from the bottom, and opened a HUGE door for fueling options because now I can use any pump I want, no surge tank needed, etc. I purchased called up Beans Diesel and had a talk with them about my plans and the price concern because I would need 2 of them and that alone would've been $300. He mentioned they had a mini version for just $50 a piece and after the install, the regular size might have been too large anyway. But saved $200 right there. Cha-ching!!! The tax God blessed my bank account and parts ordering came under way. P.S. I'll try and post links at some point for every part I purchased as well. So let me stop yapping and start posting some parts porn.
New parts. Yay!!!
This is the jewel that makes more fueling options possible.
Installation video but keeping mind this is for the original size sump. Mine didn't come with a hole saw, but I already had the size I needed which was a 1" I believe if I remember correctly.
I decided to scrap the metal fuel tank cover because after pulling it down some, I realized the tank wasn't completely flat on the bottom and if you drill in the wrong spot, you've just ruined a completely good fuel tank, and thus ruining your day. I also used a cordless drill for this because I had fuel still in my tank and didn't wanna chance it with electricity going through the drill and my E85 fuel. No thanks. This was a 3" hole, and was then going to drill my 1" hole for the sump, when I realized how hard it was to get the metal hole right where I needed it, not to mention I needed to avoid hitting the straps that hold the tank in there.
Goodbye metal fuel tank cover. PLEASE be careful if you cut it out like I did. You're cutting around a fuel tank. I took proper safety precautions, that probably didn't do much for me anyway and God just spared my life for the sole purpose of this post.
Bottom of the fuel tank. See? Not completely flat. Best spot I could find was around the middle of the tank towards the outer edge for each side. I wanted to use a spot all the way in the back but this is by far better than having a pump pulling from the top, and near the front.
Hole drilled on one side. Tank is actually pretty thick on the bottom. I also filed the edges and got any of the crap out of the inside of the tank. I drilled VERY slowly when it felt like it was getting close to going all the way through because I didn't wanna fling plastic pieces everywhere inside the tank. This is obviously better to be done with the tank pulled out as well. Hopefully everyone is smart enough to know why.
The piece I cut out to give you guys an idea of how thick the tank actually is.
Sump installed on one side. Keep in mind that I didn't use the fitting that came with the sump. I purchased an AN fitting 3/8th on the sump side and -8 AN for the lines. Make sure everything is clean before you install it so the rubber o-ring doesn't start leaking. Also being careful not to bind up the o-ring and make sure it's completely flat against the tank before torquing it all down.
Closer view.
Here's an idea of where it sits in relation to the back tires because a lot of people on Facebook seemed to be concerned about it getting hit on something under the car being that my car is fairly low. Would be pretty difficult though because of the proximity to the tires. Not in the middle of the car where a speed bump or something would easily get it. Keep in mind that I don't drive mine much on the street though and avoid speed bumps at all cost anyway.
Here's a look from the rear, with the -8 AN lines installed. They go up and over the rear subframe, Y together, and then to the pump. There was a hole where I could've mounted a clamp under the subframe but I didn't feel comfortable about it because it would've been under the axle and if the axle broke, I didn't want it taking out my fuel line. Pardon my not so pretty rear diff and axles. Was an awd swap with parts from a 95 that weren't the prettiest but it gets the job done.
This is where the two fuel lines Y in together after coming up and over the subframe. I drilled holes and mounted the clamps on the driver's side of the spare tire wheel well.
And another view. The swaybar looked like it was meant to be bent in that area. The fuel line tucked nicely under it. I drilled a hole and clamped the fuel line to the bottom of the rear subframe because I wasn't exactly sure how much the swaybar would move and I didn't want it rubbing against the line over time. From there it goes to the first fuel filter which I mounted to the front of the spare tire wheel well.
New fuel pump compared to my Walbro 450 pump. This is a Magnafuel 4303, external pump. I believe the largest external pump that you can buy without a controller. Or so I've read anyway.
Pump mounted on the passenger side of the spare tire wheel well. Then from there it goes to the after filter, which then goes back up and over the rear subframe, around the side of the fuel tank, and up to the front of the car. Prefilter to the bottom left of the picture. Had to cut all the lines and install the fittings to get them routed to where I needed them. Tried getting a few different angles for you guys.
Good view of the pump and where I drilled for grommets and ran the wiring through to the inside of the car.
Ran the 10 gauge power wire up along side the wires for my battery relocation wiring, and up to the relay for the fuel pump rewire. If you look closely, you can see where the ground wire comes in and goes to the negative terminal of the battery through the battery box.
Annnd to the front. I have it coming into the rail, from there I have an AN fitting to allow me to screw in my fuel pressure sending unit so I can log fuel pressure, and then u-turn and back to the regulator. Now I've heard that my placement for my regulator might not pass tech at the track. They're not strict about it around here and honestly, all I do is test and tune anyway. I HATE bracket racing. Just enjoy going fast and doing heads up racing. Y'all do what y'all want. But also too, the intake manifold being as large as it is makes it hard to mount closer.
So anyway, my Walbro 450 just wasn't getting the job done for me. Sure, you can punch the relief, you can get a boost-a-pump to increase the voltage which boost the output, etc., but those are things that I just don't feel comfortable with having to do, and I'm trying to put down a good amount of power. For 1g guys, they have it easy. They have a metal tank which can be modified, and the pump is already near the rear and all. 2g guys? Well, our options are limited when it comes to "good" fuel tank and fuel supply options. Sure, you can get a Fullblown, dual pump setup that drops into the stock tank but I don't like that idea. All the fuel sloshes to the back if you're launching hard and the pumps are in the front, trying to suck it up and out of the tank. STUPID Mitsubishi engineers who thought this was a good design!!!! Frontline "was" making a fuel cell but don't think they do anymore and there's just not really anyone out there doing it and not a large market for it. You could go with a Mechanical pump and buy a surge tank. But I don't really have any room behind my front bumper to mount one, no room in my engine bay, and certainly don't want it in my car where it would be bad if I were ever to get into an accident. The stock tank really limits good fuel options for awd 2g cars. You can't weld on the tank. The saddle design means you have to get fuel out of both sides, and it was really racking my brain.
So my good buddy Mike Lester from Buschur Racing and I were talking over this issue I was having and the thoughts I had in mind when he mentioned a Beans Diesel fuel sump. I was like, "what???" If you haven't heard of it (I never had), it's something the diesel guys use (duh, right?). It instantly clicked in my head and a light bulb went off. It solved my issues that I was facing and all of the debating I was having about what system to go with. Keep in mind that I have yet to put it into use yet, but I'm doing the write-up anyway. Using this piece sent from heaven above, I was able to use the stock tank, pull fuel from the bottom, and opened a HUGE door for fueling options because now I can use any pump I want, no surge tank needed, etc. I purchased called up Beans Diesel and had a talk with them about my plans and the price concern because I would need 2 of them and that alone would've been $300. He mentioned they had a mini version for just $50 a piece and after the install, the regular size might have been too large anyway. But saved $200 right there. Cha-ching!!! The tax God blessed my bank account and parts ordering came under way. P.S. I'll try and post links at some point for every part I purchased as well. So let me stop yapping and start posting some parts porn.
New parts. Yay!!!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This is the jewel that makes more fueling options possible.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Installation video but keeping mind this is for the original size sump. Mine didn't come with a hole saw, but I already had the size I needed which was a 1" I believe if I remember correctly.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I decided to scrap the metal fuel tank cover because after pulling it down some, I realized the tank wasn't completely flat on the bottom and if you drill in the wrong spot, you've just ruined a completely good fuel tank, and thus ruining your day. I also used a cordless drill for this because I had fuel still in my tank and didn't wanna chance it with electricity going through the drill and my E85 fuel. No thanks. This was a 3" hole, and was then going to drill my 1" hole for the sump, when I realized how hard it was to get the metal hole right where I needed it, not to mention I needed to avoid hitting the straps that hold the tank in there.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Goodbye metal fuel tank cover. PLEASE be careful if you cut it out like I did. You're cutting around a fuel tank. I took proper safety precautions, that probably didn't do much for me anyway and God just spared my life for the sole purpose of this post.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Bottom of the fuel tank. See? Not completely flat. Best spot I could find was around the middle of the tank towards the outer edge for each side. I wanted to use a spot all the way in the back but this is by far better than having a pump pulling from the top, and near the front.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Hole drilled on one side. Tank is actually pretty thick on the bottom. I also filed the edges and got any of the crap out of the inside of the tank. I drilled VERY slowly when it felt like it was getting close to going all the way through because I didn't wanna fling plastic pieces everywhere inside the tank. This is obviously better to be done with the tank pulled out as well. Hopefully everyone is smart enough to know why.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
The piece I cut out to give you guys an idea of how thick the tank actually is.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Sump installed on one side. Keep in mind that I didn't use the fitting that came with the sump. I purchased an AN fitting 3/8th on the sump side and -8 AN for the lines. Make sure everything is clean before you install it so the rubber o-ring doesn't start leaking. Also being careful not to bind up the o-ring and make sure it's completely flat against the tank before torquing it all down.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Closer view.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Here's an idea of where it sits in relation to the back tires because a lot of people on Facebook seemed to be concerned about it getting hit on something under the car being that my car is fairly low. Would be pretty difficult though because of the proximity to the tires. Not in the middle of the car where a speed bump or something would easily get it. Keep in mind that I don't drive mine much on the street though and avoid speed bumps at all cost anyway.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Here's a look from the rear, with the -8 AN lines installed. They go up and over the rear subframe, Y together, and then to the pump. There was a hole where I could've mounted a clamp under the subframe but I didn't feel comfortable about it because it would've been under the axle and if the axle broke, I didn't want it taking out my fuel line. Pardon my not so pretty rear diff and axles. Was an awd swap with parts from a 95 that weren't the prettiest but it gets the job done.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This is where the two fuel lines Y in together after coming up and over the subframe. I drilled holes and mounted the clamps on the driver's side of the spare tire wheel well.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
And another view. The swaybar looked like it was meant to be bent in that area. The fuel line tucked nicely under it. I drilled a hole and clamped the fuel line to the bottom of the rear subframe because I wasn't exactly sure how much the swaybar would move and I didn't want it rubbing against the line over time. From there it goes to the first fuel filter which I mounted to the front of the spare tire wheel well.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
New fuel pump compared to my Walbro 450 pump. This is a Magnafuel 4303, external pump. I believe the largest external pump that you can buy without a controller. Or so I've read anyway.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Pump mounted on the passenger side of the spare tire wheel well. Then from there it goes to the after filter, which then goes back up and over the rear subframe, around the side of the fuel tank, and up to the front of the car. Prefilter to the bottom left of the picture. Had to cut all the lines and install the fittings to get them routed to where I needed them. Tried getting a few different angles for you guys.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Good view of the pump and where I drilled for grommets and ran the wiring through to the inside of the car.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Ran the 10 gauge power wire up along side the wires for my battery relocation wiring, and up to the relay for the fuel pump rewire. If you look closely, you can see where the ground wire comes in and goes to the negative terminal of the battery through the battery box.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Annnd to the front. I have it coming into the rail, from there I have an AN fitting to allow me to screw in my fuel pressure sending unit so I can log fuel pressure, and then u-turn and back to the regulator. Now I've heard that my placement for my regulator might not pass tech at the track. They're not strict about it around here and honestly, all I do is test and tune anyway. I HATE bracket racing. Just enjoy going fast and doing heads up racing. Y'all do what y'all want. But also too, the intake manifold being as large as it is makes it hard to mount closer.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.