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ECMlink 1G help tuning 2g MAF

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AWD-Tony

Proven Member
6,801
3,735
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
1. Boost/Vac/Exhaust Leaks - NONE
2. Mechanical Timing - 8 degrees
3. Base Timing - 5 BTDC
4. New NGK plugs gaped to .26 (7 series) - Wire visually look ok
5. Motor Health - Dry 1: 110 2: 115 3: 115 4: 120
6. Throttle Adjustment - switch/cable/tps are all in line
7. Compression Ratio - IDK believe internals are stock
8. Wiring & Sensors - Everything seems to be working properly. Replaced front 02. Knock sensor is leaking.
9. No CEL codes
10. Electrical system - Link tells me we're at 13.5 volts but it does drop off towards the end of WOT pull
11. Base Fuel Pressure & Injectors - No AFPR - Rewired 255 Walbro (measured +14 volts at pump) RC 550s. Stock FPR is not leaking
12. WB sensor - There's no calibration for AEMWB. I spoke to them directly. Actually cleaned it by soaking in seafoam. It's about .5 off from the gauge reading. I've tried all the other inputs in link.
13. 91 or 93 octane
14. I've watched all the demo videos in link several times

I just installed a new IWG 17lb spring on my 16g and did a WOT pull (FIRST LOG)
Today, I took it for a cruise and used MAF comp adjust. Then took it for another pull (SECOND LOG)

Which tune is better? Also, the first pull peaked at 15.4psi and the second is over 20psi. Does anyone know why? The only thing I adjusted was MAF slider.

Thanks

Also, am I running out of fuel? If so, will AFPR be adequate? Thanks
 

Attachments

  • log.2018.01.22-03.elg
    518.8 KB · Views: 92
  • log.2018.01.23-02.elg
    984.6 KB · Views: 64
Last edited by a moderator:
You need to fix many things. No more pulls. Your timing table is rough and set to blow. No way that AEM wideband gauge is logging correctly. Set it up Linear or ditch it and get an Innovate MTXL. If you need any help with these things, shoot me a message
 
You need to fix many things. No more pulls. Your timing table is rough and set to blow. No way that AEM wideband gauge is logging correctly. Set it up Linear or ditch it and get an Innovate MTXL. If you need any help with these things, shoot me a message

I was actually looking at the MTXL yesterday because I can't get AFR and WB to line up. I did change WB to linear a while ago. Keep getting knock around 6/6.5k and it's not all the time. Knock sensor is new too.
 

Attachments

  • log.2018.02.27-03.elg
    974 KB · Views: 59
Pulling timing where it knocks is not the right way. You need to build your timing so it’s smooth. You jump like 10 degrees from one cell to another. Not to mention when it knocks, you’re adding timing which is wrong. Read into how min and max tables work, build a nice timing table and you’ll be better off. Keep timing low while you dial in afr, turn up timing later.

I’d first suggest a compression test and fresh plugs to start though given your history with this tune
 
You're running 17-19* timing throughout your whole pull which is generally considered a lot for pump gas. For example, I run that timing on e85. I'm not qualified to tell you what timing to run on pump.
 
Pulling timing where it knocks is not the right way. You need to build your timing so it’s smooth. You jump like 10 degrees from one cell to another. Not to mention when it knocks, you’re adding timing which is wrong. Read into how min and max tables work, build a nice timing table and you’ll be better off. Keep timing low while you dial in afr, turn up timing later.

I’d first suggest a compression test and fresh plugs to start though given your history with this tune

I honestly don't know where I got the timing table in my original post. Recently uploaded the stock 1g max timing table as you can see in the log I uploaded today. I have never added timing myself, only pulled timing.

Compression test dry.
1 110
2 115
3 115
4 120

Put new plugs in it about 1,500 miles ago. I purchased the car in late October and don't drive much. You still recommend changing plugs?

You're running 17-19* timing throughout your whole pull which is generally considered a lot for pump gas. For example, I run that timing on e85. I'm not qualified to tell you what timing to run on pump.

It's the stock 1g timing table. I've read to use the 2g instead since 1g table is aggressive. Maybe I'll give the 2g table a shot. If you don't have knock, don't you want to add timing for more power?

So to smooth out the timing table, do I track the timing table along the pull and keep it consistent? If not, what's the correct method?
 
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It's the stock 1g timing table. I've read to use the 2g instead since 1g table is aggressive. Maybe I'll give the 2g table a shot. If you don't have knock, don't you want to add timing for more power?
I don't believe that your table is either the 1g or the 2g table. Go check them out on ecmlink and you'll see what I mean. Your best bet is to PM Kenny and have him do a base setup for you so he can explain the ins and outs. He helped me set my old 18g up.
 
That’s low compression. Add a little oil to the cylinders and see if numbers go up. If they do, you’re past the point of no return. However running that timing will for sure continue to hurt. Generally I’d run 0-2 degrees at peak torque then ramp up to 8 degrees by 7000rpm for 30psi. 4-6 degrees at peak torque then ramp up to 12 degrees by 7000rpm for 15psi. Smooth out from there and that will be a good starting point

Yeah any stock timing tables are way too aggressive to be starting out with especially for higher boost than stock. I just build my own per customer depending on setup
 
Last edited by a moderator:
That’s low compression. Add a little oil to the cylinders and see if numbers go up. If they do, you’re past the point of no return. However running that timing will for sure continue to hurt. Generally I’d run 0-2 degrees at peak torque then ramp up to 8 degrees by 7000rpm for 30psi. 4-6 degrees at peak torque then ramp up to 12 degrees by 7000rpm for 15psi. Smooth out from there and that will be a good starting point

Thanks, Kenny! I'll do a wet compression test and see where it's at. Correct me if I'm wrong. I want to run 20psi so find where my max torque is. Then change the timing in that cell to 2-4 degrees and increase gradually to 10 when it reaches 7k rpms by tracking datalog.

I'm not a fan of "mechanic in a can" but I've read good results from Engine Restore. I plan on using it next oil change.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
1. Boost/Vac/Exhaust Leaks - NONE
2. Mechanical Timing - 8 degrees
3. Base Timing - 5 BTDC
4. New NGK plugs gaped to .26 (7 series) - Wire visually look ok
5. Motor Health - Dry 1: 110 2: 115 3: 115 4: 120
6. Throttle Adjustment - switch/cable/tps are all in line
7. Compression Ratio - IDK believe internals are stock
8. Wiring & Sensors - Everything seems to be working properly. Replaced front 02. Knock sensor is leaking.
9. No CEL codes
10. Electrical system - Link tells me we're at 13.5 volts but it does drop off towards the end of WOT pull
11. Base Fuel Pressure & Injectors - No AFPR - Rewired 255 Walbro (measured +14 volts at pump) RC 550s. Stock FPR is not leaking
12. WB sensor - There's no calibration for AEMWB. I spoke to them directly. Actually cleaned it by soaking in seafoam. It's about .5 off from the gauge reading. I've tried all the other inputs in link.
13. 91 or 93 octane
14. I've watched all the demo videos in link several times

I think it should be pointed out that you stated your Knock Sensor is leaking and that you are having issues with random Knock occurrences, my bet is they are related and this is probably what ATEAV8 is trying to get you to realize on your own. Spend the $60 and get a brand new knock sensor.
 
I think it should be pointed out that you stated your Knock Sensor is leaking and that you are having issues with random Knock occurrences, my bet is they are related and this is probably what ATEAV8 is trying to get you to realize on your own. Spend the $60 and get a brand new knock sensor.

New sensor is in (post #4). I posted this on 1/28. Thanks

Fuel lab 515 installed as well. 43.5bfp
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The e fine restore stuff is a bandaid. If something is out of spec, there is nothing in a bottle that will fix it. If I get time tonight, I’ll post up a better timing table for you to start with to use and there will be no need for you to touch it until it’s resdy to advance timing.
 
The e fine restore stuff is a bandaid. If something is out of spec, there is nothing in a bottle that will fix it. If I get time tonight, I’ll post up a better timing table for you to start with to use and there will be no need for you to touch it until it’s resdy to advance timing.

Thanks, Kenny! Much appreciated!
 
Start with this, get your wideband matching, dial fuel trims in then work on boost tuning lining up your afr to target. No need for you to touch timing until you have dialed in AFR perfectly up to achieved boost levels.
 

Attachments

  • tk106basesettings.ecm
    4.4 KB · Views: 61
  • tk106basetimingfuel.eda
    15 KB · Views: 47
Thanks, Kenny! Do I copy over everything from basesettings, MAF comp as well? The reason I ask is because Under Global Fuel Adjustment, injector size is 509cc. We've come across this before where it changes for some odd reason on this site. I've had 550s in there on previous logs and some members saw 450s on their end.
 
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