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2G Turbo Lock Washers Are they required?

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Twizted99GSX

Proven Member
140
5
Oct 12, 2014
Champaign, Illinois
Yes, they are needed. They are specialized conical washers that that keep tension on the bolts.for install:
  • The conical washer dots should face away from one another. So, one the lower washer's dot should face the exhaust manifold. The upper washer's dot should face away from the exhaust manifold.
  • A Nickel-based anti-sieze would be a great idea to make removal easier the next time they are removed.
  • Don't re-torque them until they are completely cooled after at least one heat cycle. I have made this mistake before.
 
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Conical washers are good and i just bought a bunch for different things recently, they work well instead or nyloc or serrated nuts, very useful indeed.
 
I'll probably get bashed for this but many people don't use them and substitute regular washers instead. I only have 4 regular washers on my FP manifold. I had planned on going back and adding them but those bolts are a bi*** on the FP and they've been holding up for a few years now and haven't come loose and no leaks. Not ideal and you should get new conical washers if you can but you can still run without them.
 
I'll probably get bashed for this but many people don't use them and substitute regular washers instead. I only have 4 regular washers on my FP manifold. I had planned on going back and adding them but those bolts are a bi*** on the FP and they've been holding up for a few years now and haven't come loose and no leaks. Not ideal and you should get new conical washers if you can but you can still run without them.
no you wont get bashed LOL, i currently have spring washers on my tubular manifold but when my FP one i still wont be using them as i got flanged tight nuts to lock them in place with my studs i made, will work the same way.

the dual conical washers are still great but its also down to the thread if its oversized and is loose if it will back out still
 
The OEM style is probably the right way, but not exactly necessary. I'd say as long as there are washers there, you're fine.. I recently had my head off and just went back together with everything I had. I did a new manifold to head gasket, and gasket between the manifold and turbo, but just used the same bolts and washers that came off. They were old rusty bolts and standard looking washers. Everything's working fine.
 
Everybody who's saying I bolted it together and it's fine....sure. for now. Some method of locking should be employed or the bolts back out. The factory used two conical washers per bolt and it works well.
 
When i bought my fp manifold bolts from stm they came with standard washers. I torqued to spec then ran it on the highway torqued them again and when cold verified the torque was still good.
 
A better option is nord-lock washers. Oem did work fine though for a decade with no issues on my street car, but didn't cut it once I started racing.
 
Got the OEM Turbo Lock Washers.. What's the Torque Spec on tightening down 40-47ft. lbs?

Nickel-based anti-sieze will be your best friend here. You will also want to retorque after a couple heat cycles. Wait until completely cool though.
 
I moved to Nordlock washers from the conical washers. I forgot what material I chose though as that is important for the washer to be of the correct hardness. I found the conical washers would sometimes allow one or two of the bolts to come loose and the Nordlocks always worked great. If I hadn't been removing the turbo so often, it really wouldn't have been a problem.
 
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