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AEM AEM V1 help

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3bar_dc2

Probationary Member
8
0
Nov 22, 2010
Albuquerque, New_Mexico
Hello,

I'm needing some help with aem v1. I won't pretend to know much about it, but I'm trying to get a basemap going so I can work the bugs out of the car. I'd like to be able to drive the car onto the trailer for its upcoming paint job and tune.

Quick background on the car. It's a 95 mirage sedan with full awd conversion, 2.3l 6 bolt, 1g harness, and 1g dsm aem v1 with speed density parts. Car is filled with e85 as well

Current mods are..
2.3l
Gsc s2 cams
Bosch 2200cc injectors
2x aem 340lph in tank fuel pumps
Jmf drag intake manifold
Stock throttle body (isc and fiav deleted)
Pt67
Aem 5 bar map
Gm iat
Aem wideband gauge
Stock coils

I currently have the stock trigger disk installed. I installed a yoshifab 24t disk but it kept backfiring out of the exhaust, even after trying the timing sync per triggerdisk instructions. I know the triggerdisk and yoshifab disk is slightly different so maybe that's the issue? I was able to get the stock disk to fire the car up but required me to hold the throttle down and about 15 cranks. It died immediately after.

I'm hoping someone can either help me on my basemap, or provide a start up calibration for a vehicle with similar mods. I will be getting it professionally tuned. Again, I just need something to get it running so I can work the bugs out. Everything has been done from scratch so I have a lot of little odds and ends that need to be worked out before wasting my tuner's time.

Thanks
Sean
 
Last edited:
I forgot to add that the car is filled with e85
 
Are you using Pro or Tuner to do your calibration tuning adjustments? Any luck on grabbing an AFR during your breif start before it died? What did you use for your startup cal?
 
Thanks for the reply! I'm using pro. I wasn't able to get afrs. I couldn't even check fuel pressure because it took so many cranks and holding the throttle down to get it started. As soon as I took my foot off to check fuel pressure, it died. This was with the stock trigger disk. With the 24 tooth disk, j just got massive backfires and flames out the exhaust. The fuel smell is pretty strong so it's getting plenty there, maybe too much.

I'm using the 1300 MAP start up calibration. I changed the map sensor to 5 bar, iat to gm temp sensor, aem wideband for oxygen sensor #1. I also used the throttle wizard to set the throttle range. Tps is set to .49v closed. I changed the battery offset to match what I've found for the bosch 2200cc injectors, and I changed the injector size on the fuel map from 450cc at 43.5psi to 2200cc at 43.5psi. I also selected the whole fuel map and did a percentage change of 130%, hoping it would get close because of being on e85.

What's the best way to sync timing? I tried turning off the injectors and locking timing at 10degrees during cranking to sync with the aem and it didn't help. It looks like factory crsnk advance for engine start is 30 degrees. I've tried changing this to 15 and no change.

I've been battling this for a week and getting frustrated :/ stat sync turns on after the first crank. I did try to turn "sync early" on. I've tried messing with crank injection table by reducing those values....nothing seems to help.
 
Don't mess with the ignition sync yet. It won't work until you can idle decent. First thing is getting were you can idle well enough to have time to make adjustments. Leave all the ignition stuff OEM. The AEM startup cal has all this set for plug'n play. You can mess with the trigger disc later if you want. BTW I think the DSM needs a 24-1 disc to work with the CPS & algorithums, can't remeber exactly. My best Crank Adv is 5 degrees. Starter only turns around 350-400 rpms & 30 degrees is way too advanced. Sound like a fuel issue. E85 is harder to work with on this than gas with this initial startup & more so in the winter or when cold. Anyway, adjust your crank inject table so 0% TPS => 250 max fuel & other end 100% TPS => 0 fuel. Crank to start while slowly giving it gas. You should find a "good" spot & this will give you a feel of where to start from to adjust your base fuel map. The raw fuel values are the same in both the crank inj table & base fuel table when viewing the raw values. Transfer the raw value from your startup test into the vac/up to ~2.5K rpm. You should be able to get fuel close enough to use the arrow keys to get it so it will stay running without you helping & you can start working on your other adjustments.
 
Most of that makes sense. Some if it I don't quite understand so I'll mess with it when I get home. I'm more visual with learning. I'll see what I can get done tonight and report back. Thanks a bunch!

I noticed you're in abq as well LOL
 
So the car starts up pretty quickly now, but also dies quickly. At about 10 to 14 percent throttle opening is when I can get it to start if I set crank injection table at 250 @ 0percent throttle and making it linear to 0 @ 100 percent.

What did you mean about the values being the same in the fuel map when viewing it with raw values? Vacuum up to 2500rpm is around 0 to 6 in raw values.

Thanks
Sean
 
I also about to install a v1 on my 91. Let me know what u figure out.

Im also in NM
 
What kinda setup are you running? Aem v1 is pretty tough but then again, I've never messed with it until a week ago LOL. Almost tempted to sell it and pick up ecmlink but I'll get over it once it gets started. People are a wealth of information on here...main reason why I've never had to make a post. I can usually search for my answer, not not this time LOL
 
Running ECMLink right now, switching to aem hoping I don't have problems
 
Sorry for the delay but I am getting hammered at my job. For your questions. If you open the crank inject table or graph & follow the 10-14% column up to the active cell, then go across to the y-axis you will see a raw fuel value. You need to use this value as a starting point for the Base fuel table/graph. Set all the applicable cell of the base fuel map to this value. You do not need to set very cell in the entire base fuel table, only the ones that would be involved in the low load (vacuum) low rpm zones. We want to get your engine happy enough to run & get to normal operating temp. As the temps increase things will drift rich so make small adjustments until things settle & operating temps are reached. There are several modifier tables that do additional adjusting to the base fuel depending on changing conditions. Start & cold/cooler coolant require modifications of added fuel. At operating temp these tables aren't needed & won't try to make adjustments while your trying to determine your needed base fuel value(s). First time, initial startup is the most tedious part of tuning. Once you can get running good enough to get operating temperature without having to babysit you'll be able to work on the adjusting. If you are not highly knowledgeable with EFI control systems & their implementation you will struggle with this stuff, whether AEM or some other box. Without understandinng the principals behind EFI systems; trying to do a piece together, startup tune, on a high modified setup, will not be easy or come quickly. You've picked a advanced situation as your learning project. I foresee this is going to be a struggle & I hope you have patience. You will need it. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the thorough replies :) I'll mess with it more after work today. I'll try looking at the crank inject table as a graph and see what that shows. I guess my confusion was all of the vacuum areas on the base table were showing values of 6 and less whereas the raw value on the crank inject table around the 10 to 14 percent range was showing between 150 and 200
 
Check your units on the Base Fuel Table. I think you just right click & choose "raw" instead of pulse width or duty Cycle. I don't use traditional, cell by cell fuel tuning, so I couldn't verify this before making my statement. Many years ago I was doing cell by cell & if memory is good it should be true. FYI - AEM does not default to "raw" units on the base fuel table. I think they default to pulse width. It's been a long since I connected to my laptop. Once tuned you should not have to do anything until you change something on you motor that effects the volumetric efficiency.
 
You are correct in that they default to pulse width. I right clicked and covered to raw and those were the numbers I got. I'll double check when I get home and see if I can take a snap shot. I'll try to double check some other things as well. This gives me a great starting point.
 
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