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2G engine turns over but dies after (resolved)

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nathansgsx

Proven Member
41
12
Jun 7, 2017
Meridian, Idaho
alright my fellow dsmers, i need some help and second opinions. ive searched through the threads and cant find anyone with a problem quite like mine. i bought a gsx from california last summer and drove it back to my state. the next day i got into an accident and totaled the car but it wasnt a loss so we spent months fixing er up and now she looks better than she did before. but we overlooked the turbo and discovered it was broken on the internals and wasnt boosting at all so after a few months we got another one and put it in the car. during that time the maf was sitting out and accumalated some dirt which we also overlooked. after we attatched the new turbo we hooked it all back up and went for some pulls which it boosted fine. let it sit for 30 minutes and did another pull only this time i hit full boost shift into second and all of a sudden the car starts stalling out and a code comes up for the maf. we clean the maf sensor a few weeks later and try to start it up only this time shes having some trouble. very rough and uneasy to start but once the engine turns over it idles and then dies. if i try it again and shes idling the moment i hit the gas pedal it dies. so either way it dies with or without gas. weve swapped the ecus, swapped the fuel filter, the guys replaced the pump a year ago but my fear is its gunked up or gone bad. its had the same gas sitting in it for close to 7 months and during the time period its been driven a very short distance so mostly just sitting. any opinions ?? would really appreciate the help
 
If you clear the mass air code and then it comes back then i would look into getting another one . also make sure that the rubber insulator that is in the connector didn't fall out . that keeps the connector tight and also keeps out moisture.
 
the car doesnt run long enough to pop a code so i have no clue, i still dont understand how pressing the gas pedal could cause the engine to die even if that was the maf sensor. the rubber insulator is still in the connecter

If you clear the mass air code and then it comes back then i would look into getting another one . also make sure that the rubber insulator that is in the connector didn't fall out . that keeps the connector tight and also keeps out moisture.
the car doesnt run long enough to pop a code so i have no clue, i still dont understand how pressing the gas pedal could cause the engine to die even if that was the maf sensor. the rubber insulator is still in the connecter
also the battery has been unhooked so all the codes from the ecu have been cleared
 
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Your car has a Karman-Vortex style MAF sensor. It is not suggested to use any type of cleaner on them. In fact, many specific cleaners will specify "Not for use with Karman-Vortex style MAF sensors".

I would suggest starting with a known good unit or at least test the one you currently have as outlined in the following thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/maf-or-mas-test-check.279488/

It is assumed that you have inspected the connector @nathansgsx suggested. Report back with your findings.

If the car seems to idle ok when running, does it die after a certain amount of time?
 
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Did you at least check this thing for boost leaks?
Boost leak, you popped an intercooler hose off of the throttle body that you forgot to clamp back down
the car has no boost leaks. it holds vacuum like it should and it creates boost and holds it with ease last time it was driven. ive already checked and all clamps are tightened down as they should be, even then the car should still be able to run with a boost leaks

Your car has a Karman-Vortex style MAF sensor. It is not suggested to use any type of cleaner on them. In fact, many specific cleaners will specify "Not for use with Karman-Vortex style MAF sensors".

I would suggest starting with a known good unit of at least test the one you currently have as outlined in the following thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/maf-or-mas-test-check.279488/

It is assumed that you have inspected the connector @nathansgsx suggested. Report back with your findings.

If the car seems to idle ok when running, does it die after a certain amount of time?
I’ll check it out and give it a shot tomorrow! its super cold out so it idles a little bit high which can be assumed as normal and it idles without hesitation like there isnt stuttering or anything. but then after 3 or 4 seconds it just gives out and dies.
 
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the car has no boost leaks. it holds vacuum like it should and it creates boost and holds it with ease last time it was driven. ive already checked and all clamps are tightened down as they should be, even then the car should still be able to run with a boost leaks
Very incorrect statement. Car is very likely to idle poorly if run at all with boost leaks. Checking connections is not enough. Did you actually pressurize the intake tract? Engine vacuum is NOT an indicator of a healthy syatem.

I’ll check it out and give it a shot tomorrow! its super cold out so it idles a little bit high which can be assumed as normal and it idles without hesitation like there isnt stuttering or anything. but then after 3 or 4 seconds it just gives out and dies.
This statement is different. Sounds less like a leak. Do you have a way to datalog the car?
 
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This statement is different. Sounds less like a leak. Do you have a way to datalog the car?
stock ecu no dsm link or anything like that, and i dont feel like theres a leak but i can still look into it for safe measures. the car seems to idle healthy no stuttering it just dies after a few seconds. something is preventing it from staying running. even after you start it a few times at first its a little rough but then it turns over just fine. it just wont stay running. at first i thought it was the fuel pump but i just swapped the fuel filter and i didnt have it tightened down all the way so it was spraying gas which is a good sign that fuel is still flowing through the system. im at a dead end here
 
stock ecu no dsm link or anything like that, and i dont feel like theres a leak but i can still look into it for safe measures. the car seems to idle healthy no stuttering it just dies after a few seconds. something is preventing it from staying running. even after you start it a few times at first its a little rough but then it turns over just fine. it just wont stay running. at first i thought it was the fuel pump but i just swapped the fuel filter and i didnt have it tightened down all the way so it was spraying gas which is a good sign that fuel is still flowing through the system. im at a dead end here


:|

I bought a gst with a loose intercooler pipe for $1300 because the owner thought it jumped timing. I literally put the coupler back over the throttle body elbow and drove the car home. It had been sitting in his apartment complex for six months not running. He kept throwing parts at it, he ordered evo

You seem like the same person. "It doesn't feel like a boost leak". :ohdamn:

We didn't help.

We told you what to do and you ignored us.

Good luck on your own. Hopefully you can guess your way out of this non running car situation by ignoring everyone else's advice
 
:|

I bought a gst with a loose intercooler pipe for $1300 because the owner thought it jumped timing. I literally put the coupler back over the throttle body elbow and drove the car home. It had been sitting in his apartment complex for six months not running. He kept throwing parts at it, he ordered evo

You seem like the same person. "It doesn't feel like a boost leak". :ohdamn:

We didn't help.

We told you what to do and you ignored us.

Good luck on your own. Hopefully you can guess your way out of this non running car situation by ignoring everyone else's advice
i took everyones advice, i checked the car for boost leaks and surely enough there were none which i already knew wasnt the issue. i tested the maf sensor just like @2gmitsueclipse suggested and that ended up being the issue. i dont need your stubbornness when ive already thanked everyone and taken their advice. theres no loose couplers especially connected to the throttle body, wouldnt be that hard to spot?? i ignored your comment because it was irrelevant to the situation, but thank you for taking the time to reply. i appreciate it.
dont mean to be rude, much respect. just the issue is resolved for now. thank you.
 
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