I've attached a 3rd gear pull. It starts at 78 second mark. I'm hitting fuel cut above 5,000 rpms where it just starts to knock? Do I pull a couple of degrees at that point? Thanks

1. Boost/Vac/Exhaust Leaks - NONE
2. Mechanical Timing - 8 degrees
3. Base Timing - 5 BTDC
4. New NGK plugs gaped to .28 (7 series) - Wire visually look ok
5. Motor Health - Waiting for Compression gauge - might be able to borrow one tonight
6. Throttle Adjustment - switch/cable/tps are all in line
7. Compression Ratio - Stock I believe
8. Wiring & Sensors - Everything seems to be working properly. Replaced front 02. Knock sensor is leaking.
9. No CEL codes
10. Electrical system - Link tells me we're at 13.5 volts
11. Base Fuel Pressure & Injectors - No AFPR - Rewired 255 Walbro (measured +14 volts at pump) RC 550s. Stock FPR is not leaking
12. WB sensor - There's no calibration for AEMWB. I spoke to them directly. Actually cleaned it yesterday by soaking in seafoam. It's about half a volt off from the gauge reading. I've tried all the other inputs in link.
13. 91 or 93 octane
14. I've watched all the demo videos in link several times

Fuel cut is actually an airflow issue, not a fuel issue. Fuel cut happens when the MAF sees too much air and can't account for it anymore. I doubt that is happening with a 2g maf but I've never used one so I'm not sure. Your injectors only got up to 88% duty cycle, so you aren't running out of fuel. You need to change your timing maps and afr targets in the direct access table. I'll let more qualified people help you with that, but your wideband is reading about 11.7 and your target is 9.5 or so.....which is very far off. Not even close.

Thanks Vegas! I have another thread in links forum and was told to raise the global which is at -18.4%. I will update once I get that dialed in.

There is a template you are supposed to fill out before asking any ECMlink related questions. You MUST fill it out if you want answers from some of the more knowledgeable members regarding ecmlink. It narrows down so many unneeded questions.

You should only be adjusting your global with a non-SD setup when you compensating for new (bigger) injectors. If you have down your inputs right, it should be fine where it is at. You can adjust idle airflow and WBfactor with your MAF trims. Right now your WBfactor is off the charts. You need to get that dialed in. this is a good resource for that: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/maftcalibrationbywbo2?s[]=wbfactor.

You also need to get your target AF ratio tables leaned out. the factory setting is Hella rich. I don't have good tables to start with, because it is on my to do list as well, but there are many floating around the forums.

Did you notice that you are at 18:1 at the beginning of your pull? That is really lean. Even what you stabilize at (11.8:1) is leaner than most recommend on our cars.

Get your WBfactor dialed in before upping your AFR target tables or you could very well melt something or get really bad knock.

Try this and post back a new log once it is close.

doubleclutch said:

You should only be adjusting your global with a non-SD setup when you compensating for new (bigger) injectors. If you have down your inputs right, it should be fine where it is at. You can adjust idle airflow and WBfactor with your MAF trims. Right now your WBfactor is off the charts. You need to get that dialed in. this is a good resource for that: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/maftcalibrationbywbo2?s[]=wbfactor.

You also need to get your target AF ratio tables leaned out. the factory setting is Hella rich. I don't have good tables to start with, because it is on my to do list as well, but there are many floating around the forums.

Did you notice that you are at 18:1 at the beginning of your pull? That is really lean. Even what you stabilize at (11.8:1) is leaner than most recommend on our cars.

Get your WBfactor dialed in before upping your AFR target tables or you could very well melt something or get really bad knock.

Try this and post back a new log once it is close.

Click to expand...

Thanks, doubleclutch!
After inputting my injectors (on Links base injector page, Global is -18.4 and deadtime of 180 for RC550s), I adjusted the 50hz MAF slider to get AirflowperRev to .25. From there, I dialed the deadtime to get combinedFT as close to 0%. When I do this, the WBfactor is way off. Am I incorrectly dialing in idle? I've never clamped IAT/Baro signal in DSMlink.

I will use that link to get WBfactor in line and post a log.

If you cross that off your to do list, please send me a copy. Will look for that after I get WBfactor in order.

I did notice that the 18:1 when I start WOT pull. How do I correct that? I'm new to tuning so please be patient w this NewB. Thanks and happy new year all!!

Post logs any time you make a change.

tk106 said:

Thanks, doubleclutch!
After inputting my injectors (on Links base injector page, Global is -18.4 and deadtime of 180 for RC550s), I adjusted the 50hz MAF slider to get AirflowperRev to .25. From there, I dialed the deadtime to get combinedFT as close to 0%. When I do this, the WBfactor is way off. Am I incorrectly dialing in idle? I've never clamped IAT/Baro signal in DSMlink

Click to expand...

WBfactor and Idle tune don't have much in common. WBfactor should only be dialed in at WOT. your 50hz slider is not going to come into play at WOT air flow volumes.

tk106 said:

If you cross that off your to do list, please send me a copy. Will look for that after I get WBfactor in order.

Click to expand...

You can find a good starting point here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/stiggity99directaccess-eda.303436/

Also if you haven't read it, this might help: (post #16 line 1 is where I found the DA table for AFR targets)
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-big-book-of-random-tuning-tips.511262/

tk106 said:

I did notice that the 18:1 when I start WOT pull. How do I correct that? I'm new to tuning so please be patient w this NewB. Thanks and happy new year all!!

Click to expand...

Fix your WBfactor and see what it looks like. Should be largely improved.

Happy new year to you too!

Vegas smith said:

Post logs any time you make a change.

Click to expand...

I loaded the AF ratio tables and regapped plugs from .28 to .25 and it no longer breaks up at 5500 rpms. Pulls nice to 6k & WOT starts at 570 seconds. It started snowing here and road conditions aren't the best right now with it being so cold. I installed a MBC I made and it still getting up to 23psi. I see the AFRatioEst & WB still need a little tweeking. Should I bother tuning at this point or find this boos gremblin? Thanks

Looks like it's getting better. Haven't you fixed most of your problems now?

I wish! Overboost is next on the menu but she's running much better. Actually enjoy driving it now.

Injector duty is getting up there when it hits 23psi at WOT. Want to start tuning at 16psi and go from there. Looks like I'll have to pull the turbo to see if it's ported under the flapper.

It's probably not. I think back in the day the lowest I could get mine was 18-19psi which was exactly what I wanted anyways.

Looking much better. Keep going on the WBfactor. Almost there.

Somewhere around 23-27 PSI is where the heads lift on the 2g. Not sure if the 1G is the same, but might want to keep that in mind.

Your HP to air numbers are looking really good though! 10:1 is considered good. You are real close!

Awesome. Thanks fellas!! I really appreciate the help!

The person I purchased the car from didn't know if it had ARP studs or not. It's on my endless to do list. Prob when I replace tbelt. Is 20 psi safe with stock head bolts and stock head gasket? Thanks

Dry compression
1 110
2 115
3 115
4 120

20 should be ok.

The stock 6 bolt head studs are way better than the 7 bolts. I think they're around 2m(?) larger and should have no problems at 20 psi, heck I read somewhere on here of people going close to 30psi on them. Let me see if I can find the post.

Edit: here it is http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/stock-6-bolt-head-studs-strength.384978/

Ok thanks. I'll increase MAF slider 4-5% starting from 500hz and post a log.

Thanks, Airsign! I'm content with running 20psi until I get sick of it and/or I win the lottery haha. Will probably end up going w ARP studs when I replace the Tbelt & HG, just for piece of mind. My goal is a reliable fun car and 20 psi feels great. I had a 2g that I sold about 15 years ago. It put down just over 400hp to the wheels but I went through 3 trannys getting there. I have a mortgage now and don't live with my parents haha so this is sort of a budget build. For $80 studs, I'll be able to sleep comfortably.

I adjusted the MAF Comp starting from 600hz and up, but WB reading didn't change much. WOT starts at 596 second mark. Any suggestions???Thanks