The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

ECMlink 2G GSX with Speed Density

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PrimerPLus

10+ Year Contributor
1,158
20
Jul 28, 2011
Tokyo, Asia
1). No boost, vac, or exhaust leaks.
Tested and tested can’t find any leaks other than from valve cover to Catch Can when testing from turbo. Test to 30psi. boost set at 22psi.


2). Verify mechanical timing.
All timing marks line up. I do have adjustable cam gears but they are set at 0. They have never been adjusted.


3). Verify base timing
Using Fluidampr marks are aligned.



4). Ignition system
NGK BPR7ES gapped .026 was told this would be better because of blowout?



5). Motor health
Compression tested:

Cylinder:

1 – 165

2- 165

3- 165

4- 170


6). Basic throttle body adjustments.
Just rebuild throttle body. Using FIAV Bypass plate. Adjusted SAS and TPS without using link adjust. The log I post will have link adjust which was done after adjustments. Before the adjust the TPS volts in link showed .63v while car is off. When running it goes to .65v while running. If I adjusted it while its running to .63v it would go to .61v when turned off. So I adjusted to .63v while off and then used link adjust while running to get it to show .63v


7). Compression ratio

Stock compressions ratio

8). Wiring and sensors
No visual sign of sensor or wiring failures.

9). No DTC/CEL codes

10). Electrical system
Running Galant alternator 90amps


11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Injectors: FIC 1150

AFPR: Aeromotive set to 43psi


12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
AEM Uego wideband set in link as Linear Wideband


13). Type of fuel

90octane pump


14). ECMlink how-to videos

Watched


Ok so I have been putting my car off for a while due to school and what not. So now I am need to get it done. I am moving out of country and need to get this in good shape to sell.

I had a tuner that had been kinda helping me with my car but it never got anywhere and he has become unreachable.

I need to get its idle correct and tune for no knock. That's my goal. Hoping to get it done before I leave.
Starting with idle. Here is my log.The direct access has been adjusted from what the tuner did.

I can't seem to get the ISC position down to 30. I am not sure if I am too adjust that before or after making all the fuel deadtime adjustments or the VE changes. So I am starting fresh and hoping someone will guide me.
 

Attachments

  • Idle.2017.12.12-01.elg
    27.9 KB · Views: 35
Last edited:
I unchecked the box that says use non 95/96 cam angle sensor. Think it helped.

OK first idle log is it idling after I made deadtime, and VE adjustments.
Second Idle log is after I went on a long cruise and made the adjustments to VE table using SD VE Combft.

Short idle is just a quick little cruise after all the above has been done.

My idle seems to be better. It doesn't come down fast after driving around it takes a min or two and then it will come down. I don't really know if this is normal or not. Use to driving around in a much newer vehicle.
 

Attachments

  • IDLE.2017.12.13-02.elg
    51.7 KB · Views: 34
  • NewIdle.2017.12.13-01.elg
    47 KB · Views: 33
  • ShortCruise.2017.12.13-01.elg
    254.1 KB · Views: 34
New idle I turned the BISS in another half a turn.
Any suggestions how does it look? I am only asking because I am no pro tuner.
 

Attachments

  • IDLEaftermoreadjustments.2017.12.15-01.elg
    54.6 KB · Views: 24
Alright it is getting annoying. When I have it idling how I like I go for a cruise and then it starts surging for a few then go backs to idling. And sometimes while idling in the driveway it will be fine then just start surging.

So I redid everything. I reset everything I did. Here are my New logs.
First idle is after adjustments to BISS and Deadtimes.
Second idle is the same as above except I have my lights and heater on because well it's cold in Alaska and I wanted to see how much it was affecting my idle with everything turned on and it does as you can see.

3rd log is a long cruise but I did not apply any thing I just went on the cruise and saved the log.
 

Attachments

  • Idle.2017.12.17-01.elg
    62.2 KB · Views: 33
  • Lights_Heater_Idle.2017.12.17-01.elg
    63.1 KB · Views: 28
  • Cruise.2017.12.17-01.elg
    1.4 MB · Views: 42
Last edited:
I was told to use a different global fuel from my last tuner so I changed it to that.
Also Set VE back to stock it is idling good just sitting here have not driven anywhere or made any changes to VE.
 

Attachments

  • IdleStockVE.2017.12.18-01.elg
    68.9 KB · Views: 50
@PrimerPLus Looking at the 12.20-02 log:

1) Adjust your TPS: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/adjust-your-tps.509898/

2) Your idle is set way too high. Even with decently aggressive cams, you shouldn't need to go over 950 RPM to get the car to idle. If the car won't idle, you likely have boost/vacuum leaks, or some other issue(s) at play.

3) Assuming your wideband in reading correctly (AEM WB's are notorious for working like shit with ECMlink) You're wayyyyy lean at WOT. You need to add a ton of fuel. Your global fuel should be set to about where it should be, but you need to add fuel, and your SD table is already at nearly 100%. I suspect you have a mechanical issue at play, but it's hard to tell...Especially when relying on an AEM WB. Bump your SD table to 100% at peak Tq/WOT and see if that brings your actual/estimated AFR curve more true. If not, you can try and add global fuel. If neither work, you need to look at the fuel system, and see what's falling short.

4) Your DA table is set too rich. I'd lean it out to 11.0:1 for pump gas.

5) You need to adjust the voltage based deadtime according to your injector spec sheet.

Overall, the tune needs a bit of work. I'd start troubleshooting by verifying your WBO2 is reading accurately. I suspect it may be off.
 

Attachments

  • log.2017.12.20-02.elg
    21.6 KB · Views: 32
I will make the adjustments. I switched to the provided link AEMWIDEBANDgaugeR2 instead of using Linearwideband. It seems to match much better at all points.
I'll see about making those changes and post another log.
 
These are the values FIC sent to me in an email when I had my Injectors flow tested and cleaned. Can I use this for the DA voltage based deadtime?
I also took some time to get you those latency values

7 volt 3.95 = 3950microseconds

8 volt 2.94 = 2940 microseconds

9 volt 2.28 = 2280 microseconds

10 volt 1.77 = 1770 microseconds

12 volt 1.25 = 1250 microseconds

14 volt 0.93 = 930 microseconds

16 volt 0.72 = 720 microseconds

19 volt 0.61 = 610 microseconds
 
Last edited:
Significant improvement at WOT. Looks like the car is still idling a bit high still, but we can come back to that. I usually tune idle last, after I'm done making changes at WOT and cruise.

You still need to adjust your TPS. There's a dip in your WOT log as well, probably caused by your maladjusted sensor, unless you let out of the throttle there for some reason.

Your AFR is tracking much better. However, you're a bit on the rich side now. I would go do another 3rd gear pull without changing anything except for making a small change to global fuel. Pull some fuel from global until the section marked below tracks AFR perfectly. Once it does, then go back and tweak your SD to get the rest of the curve to line up. At that point, your global fuel should be good to go, and you shouldn't have to touch it again.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Use the interpolate function (right click on the SD table) in ECMlink to smooth out your table and get good transitions from cell to cell. The smoother your table is, the better it will perform.

Regarding the knock, you're not going to be able to do much about it on 90 octane. Lower the boost, and pull some timing out of your DA table. Or get better gas.

Once your AFR is tracking perfectly at WOT, your fuel settings (namely global) should be static. At that point, go for a nice long cruise and capture a bunch of closed loop data to use ECMlink's SD VE adjust tool on. You may want to extend your thresholds to get a better/wider range of good data, as outlined here: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/sdveadjcomft . Some manual tweaks will be required, mostly to smooth things out.

After you dial in cruise, then adjust the idle cells and deadtime to get the car idling nice and smooth.
 
I adjusted the value many,times with,car off and or running. It would change if it's not running or running and after driving around for no reason. Well I was just out doing a wot pull and after I came to a stop noticed my throttle showing 100% and tps at 5v. With my foot off the Peddle and so I pulled into a lot and turned it off still showing 100%throttle and 5v. I think the tps is dead.
I have another at home I'll swap,out.

Here is the log too
 

Attachments

  • log.2017.12.24-01.elg
    16.8 KB · Views: 36
Last edited:
New 3rd gear pull. Idle is still a little wonky.
I was just looking this over and noticed that the tps volts is being weird again. I have a new tps on the way.
Other than that how does it look?
I dropped boost down to 20ish
 

Attachments

  • 3rdGearPull.2017.12.26-01.elg
    18.5 KB · Views: 32
@GST with PSI
Installed new TPS.
I went for a long drive and used the sd combft tool to make adjustments to the SD table.
Here is a 60sec. Idle log.
Now what I have noticed is that if the motor is off for a while and then I turn it on and it warms up after its at operating temp it will idle fine at 900-1k ish.
But after my long drive which is when this idle log is taken, it will not idle at 900. Very annoying. Nothing changed other than driving.
 

Attachments

  • IDLE.2017.12.31-01.elg
    59.8 KB · Views: 30
@PrimerPLus

Sorry for the delay. Been busy with life...

Your airflow per rev is higher higher than I'd like. If you're absolutely positive you're boost leak free, then try and make a manual adjustment to the BISS to bring the idle RPM down to your target. I'm not seeing much movement from your ISC, whcih should be working to pull your idle back down to target.

You can also pull a bit of fuel from the idle cells, but your AFRs are tracking fairly well, so I'd try not to mess with fuel too much until you've tried to sort out the idle via other means.

Once you get the car to idel near your target, and AFRs are tracking well, tweak your deadtime to get everything perfect.

Lastly, don't forget to put your OL thresholds back to stock before you go WOT, or any crazy shit like that.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top