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Street Build Project 1g (NBA DSM)

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This car has really come a long way. Great work.

On a side note, the Fel-Pro PermaTorque composite gaskets should be installed clean and dry. Copper spray on a composite gasket isn't recommended by Fel-Pro...Although, I know a lot of people do it anyways for some reason. Hopefully it holds up.
Yeah I actually read that
This car has really come a long way. Great work.

On a side note, the Fel-Pro PermaTorque composite gaskets should be installed clean and dry. Copper spray on a composite gasket isn't recommended by Fel-Pro...Although, I know a lot of people do it anyways for some reason. Hopefully it holds up.
yeah I actually read that it's not recommended on the felpro, after I had already coated it. Hopefully it works out, if not I bought a couple spares from rockauto. Also kudos on your builds, yours plus others gave me the motivation to finally finish mine. Hope to see them in person one day
 
UPDATE: Sorry for the late update, but life has taken precedence over the build. I did manage to get some things done. First things first, I finished installing my SMIM, 63mm bored throttle body, thermostat housing, coil pack, etc. You can also see where I placed my vacuum distribution block. I'm pretty sure you can see what theme I'm going with. Also Justin at Detective Coating did my powder coating.
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Here is a sneak preview of my turbo choice. Holset HX-40 w/ upgraded 76mm turbine wheel. I’m going to run the bolt-on BEP housing, but I know I will eventually go T3 before this build is finished.
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I put the engine away and started tinkering with the interior again, I installed my stereo and dash panels so I could get a firsthand look at how things will come together. I am pleased for now, but I might change up my gauge placement again. I also installed my turbo timer and manual cooling fan switch in the lower dash panel.
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Last but not least, Chassis harness/ fuse box tuck. Ok I completed my fuse box tuck a while ago and honestly I’m not too happy about the placement. So instead of ripping the modified one out, I decided to start fresh with a whole new harness. I purchased this harness from Miller Imports, and let me say this guy is pretty cool. Price is very reasonable and his shipping is very fast. This time I will post lots of pics and go into great detail with my procedure. That way I can help out fellow tuners. Here is the harness de-loomed and ready for de-pinning.
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Been watching this build since summer and waiting to see what turbo you'd land on.

Everything so far has been really well done.
I like how far you took the sound proofing. Really curious to know how "Lexus" it gets.

In contrast, I spent hours tearing up the acreage of dynamat hidden all around my car. The closest thing to sound proofing I have on my car now is double-sided velcro for the interior panels. I don't mind the exhaust drone, but rattles make me nuts!

Keep up the good work brother!
 
Update: Well Tuners I’m back with a much needed update, but this one is bitter sweet LOL, you can say I back slid on one part. I’m just a sucker for punishment. I’m going to start with the suspension, brakes etc.
I first started prepping my suspension for a full poly bushing rebuild, sorry but I didn’t take a lot of pics since this part was a pita. Next I loaded up everything for Justin at Detective Coating, sub frames were coated gloss black, sway bars black chrome and everything else satin black.
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Next I pressed my wheel bearings into the hubs
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I’m a big fan of Rock Auto, and I got a killer deal on a set of KYB AGX struts and shocks, with new bump stops and strut mounts. These were mated to a set of Tein lowering springs. During this install I decided to mount my 3000gt brake upgrade with cobra slotted and drilled rotors, stainless steel brake lines. The rear just received upgraded rotor and pads, of course Justin powder coated the calipers illusion purple.
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Now let’s discuss the bitter sweet part, so in the last update I started redoing my chassis/ fuse box wiring harness. Well I was looking at my auxiliary fuse box wiring and figured I could make it cleaner and professional looking, so back to the drawing board. The auxiliary fuse box will stay in the same location, but I found a better solution for my relay connections, more on that later. I will also add weather pack quick disconnects throughout to make removal easier.
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Back to the chassis/ fuse box wiring, I deleted both a/c relay connectors, windshield washer motor and power steering connector. I also decided to mount the harness behind the dash with a 22 pin weather pack quick disconnect. ( word of wisdom, make sure to triple check the connections because they are very easy to confuse). Just an FYI there is actually 27 wire in this harness
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I also completed my H4 headlight harnesses and labeled my auxiliary relays
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I also received the Master Series Coating AG111 Chassis Kit for the engine bay. My plan is to complete this during my 3-week holiday leave. Should be interesting to see how this paint holds up.
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Last but not least, I switched my gauge set-up again and relocated all my gauges to the center bezel, I actually like this location better. I will also make block-off plates for the empty spaces. Next I mounted the pusher fans on the radiator. These things move a ton of air, so I shouldn’t have any cooling issues.
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Kind of a bulky connector, didn't realize some of the wires were that big? Lookin' good though, I will say it does take some patience and dedication to reconfigure the old harness. I almost feel like I'm cheating by creating my own...
Yeah it is, it's kind of a good thing though because it makes handling the wires a little better. I plan on mounting a small panel where the hvac system used to reside and using that as the main connect/ disconnect point. I want this harness to be somewhat easy to remove with the exception of removing the dash. So it will consist of 4 parts: drivers , passenger , interior fuse box , and main fuse box.
 
Yeah it is, it's kind of a good thing though because it makes handling the wires a little better. I plan on mounting a small panel where the hvac system used to reside and using that as the main connect/ disconnect point. I want this harness to be somewhat easy to remove with the exception of removing the dash. So it will consist of 4 parts: drivers , passenger , interior fuse box , and main fuse box.

I like it, doing a similar thing with mine. Although separated "Primary" and "Secondary" it'll be a similar concept.
 
Update: Sorry for the late post, I have been extremely busy with work, school, and home life.
First order of business, my garage was in shambles and I had to do something about the disorganization. I constructed some heavy-duty shelves and made a wheel/tire rack. These are some before pics:
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Here are some after shots- Still a work in progress
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I also constructed an air compressor cooler/ air drier. I constructed this using an a/c evaporator core from a 2000 GMC Yukon. All other parts were bought from Home Depot. I can provide further details upon request. Since using this setup, I haven’t had any condensation in my compressor tank.
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I also did some finishing work on the engine bay. I finished all the fiberglass, and Bondo work. Next I sanded and smoothed all the filler using 80, 180 grit sandpaper. I still have a few imperfections I need to fill with glazing putty, but all in all everything is smooth. Next I gave the bay a Dawn detergent degreasing bath and will soon prepare for the DTM primer. Also, the color I chose for the engine bay is BMW Alpine White. Stay tuned for more updates.
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Nice. Gotta get the workspace ready so you don't go crazy when you're actually doing the auto work. What wheels are those pictured?
 
Nice. Gotta get the workspace ready so you don't go crazy when you're actually doing the auto work. What wheels are those pictured?
Yeah I spent more time looking for tools and parts than actually working on the car. It was driving me crazy. So I spent a good two weekends eliminating clutter and unnecessary parts. I had to modify the compressor because I was getting a lot of moisture in my air tools. The wheels are 18x9 Rota Boost, I did a trial fit and they are a little aggressive. Either way I'm going to powder coat them a satin black and maybe trade for some EVO X wheels down the line.
 
UPDATE: So, I’m back with a small update, but I promise more is to come. I finally got around to laying down primer. I laid down 3 coats of primer and followed it with a 600-grit wet sanding.
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Now for the base coat and clear. The color I went with is BMW Alpine White. I wanted something that wasn’t to vibrant but added enough depth and clarity to stand out. I think it turned out great, since this was my first-time spraying. I did have a little run here and there but I'm pleased with the outcome.
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Last on the list, I wanted to install my powder coated sub frame. Again I have to say Justin at detective coating does excellent work.
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That’s all for right now, but next on the list is to install my revised brake components, redo my fuel lines and finish up the engine again. I received a 2g 7-bolt head from a fellow tuner, I made the plunge to go with the 2g head/ Evo 3 manifold combo. I will save the ported 6-bolt head for another build.
 

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Update: Sorry folks it took so long to update, but life got in the way. I have been working on the build here and there but just didn’t have time to update the thread.

Let’s get on with it- I started adding components back to the engine bay, this included positive terminals for the starter and alternator. I also am planning to tuck my -03 AN vacuum lines so I added some -03 AN bulkhead fittings to the mix. I also installed my 3g brake booster and master cylinder with the ABS delete kit. Next on the list was intercooler, crash beam, headlight buckets, etc. During this time, I also started mocking up the hood struts.
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So, I switched directions on the engine build again LOL. In the future, I plan to build a clean 2g awd DD or a Galant VR-4 DD. I’m going to save the original short block and 2g cylinder head/ evo 3 manifold combo for that build. So, I figured it was time to finally build a short block with forged internals, it also didn’t help I had been stock piling parts for some time and I found a 6-bolt block and crank for cheap locally. First thing I started on was the cylinder head, I gave it a stage 1.5 port and polish job using Jafromobiles you tube site. I had the head decked, pressure tested, 3-angle valve job, and hot tanked, at that time Manley valve springs and retainers were added with stainless steel valves and Supertech valve seals. During this time frame, I sent my Tomei 261/261 camshafts off to Delta Cams to get some minor pitting repaired. Just an FYI, there isn’t a lot of information out there on DSM Tomei cams, but according to Delta Cams, these Tomei cams spec out very, very, very close to Kelford 272/272. I’m very eager to see how these perform.
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Next on the list was to start preparation on the block, I performed the oil gallery mods and then sent the block off to get hot tanked, decked, cylinder hone, and lined honed for the ARP main studs. I also sent the crank off to get magna fluxed and polished. After I received the block back it developed surface rust fast. Since I went a different paint route on the engine bay, I decided to use the Master Series AG111 coating on the engine block. I applied two coats silver primer and 1 coat satin black. After everything cured I installed a new set of EVO 8 oil squirters.
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I cleaned the crank one more time started the process of double checking my main bearing clearances, I decided to go with King XP main and rod bearings with ARP main studs.
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Then it was on to installation of oil pick-up, oil pain, new rear main seal and pistons/rods with ARP “undercut” head studs. I decided to just go with a simple 9:0:1 CR Manley/ Wiseco piston rod combo. I’m also going with a Felpro composite gasket since I have had good luck with them in the past. My goal is only 400-450 hp so hopefully this will work.
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Next it was on to lubing up the oil pump and installation of cylinder head, oil pump, water pump and timing components. I also installed my polished Fidanza cam gears with a oem EVO 8 timing belt
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I also started prepping/ trimming the timing cover for the Fluidampr pulley installation. Then it was on to the SMIM, coil pack relocation, dip stick tube and Saturn 130-amp alternator installation.
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UPDATE: Sorry for the late posts this time, things are coming along nicely but at a slow pace.

After the engine was built, it was time to prep the transmission for installation. The first thing I did was use the remainder of the master series coating to paint the transmission. I removed all the transmission case bolts and wired wheel them separately. Next on the list I installed new seals, new ACT throw-out bearing and Competition Clutch forged fork. Then it was on to a lightweight Fidanza flywheel, Act 2300 street disc with a Stage 4 XTD pressure plate. For better clutch engagement I decided to go with a first gen 3000gt-vr4 slave cylinder, I also added a speed bleeder to the mix.Then on to the hoist to finally install it in the bay.
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Radiator and pusher fans was next to go in. The fit was snug and I powered them on to make sure nothing was rubbing. With the amount of air these things push, I should have no cooling problems. Next on the list was intercooler piping fabrication, I went with 3.0 inch aluminized tubing. I added my IAT bung, Greddy BOV flange and meth injection nozzle bungs. Fuel lines was next and I used -08 an Teflon hose. During this time I mounted the oil cooler and fabricated the lines.
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Last on the list for this update is fabrication of the tucked vacuum/pressure lines. I used -03 an hose and fittings for these. I also mounted my Gamble Garage catch can.
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