shinzon
15+ Year Contributor
- 350
- 72
- Sep 11, 2006
-
St. Petersburg,
Florida
Some background: During the summer of 2015, after nearly a decade of daily driving, my '96 TSIAWD (stock with the exception of a 14b swap) developed a nasty exhaust leak so I parked it. It ran fine otherwise. Sometime in early 2016, I attempted to start the car, but realized the battery harness was severely corroded. After purchasing a new harness from Mitsu (one of the last in the country at the time), I took the car apart, life got in the way, and I never put it back together.
So about a month ago I started working on the car again. I drained the fuel, replaced the fuel filter and all other liquids and filters, new bpr6es plugs (.28) and NGK wires, finished the harness swap and she fired up.
Symptoms: The car now starts, idles, and moves under it's own power, but it gets real unhappy when you start trying to make boost: bucks, and it backfires when you lift. If you stay below 5psi or so, the car is drive-able, but I've noticed that as soon as the engine warms up, and the ECU enters closed loop, it starts to stutter, run/idle very rough, and struggle not to stall.
The car still has the exhaust leak that made me park it. Might be a bad turbo to manifold gasket, cracked turbine housing on the 14b, or cracked manifold, or bad manifold gasket. Seems to be coming from that area.
It's throwing CELs for Fuel Pressure Solenoid, Wastegate Solenoid, and Crank Position sensor
What I've checked: I suspected Coolant Temp Sensor so I hooked up EVOScan and logged it, but it seems to be reporting temperature correctly. MAF sensor, intake air temp sensor, and barometric sensor seem to be giving sane vales. CPS reads zero while the car is running (this is what it's supposed to do right?), but I see it change value when starting. I only have a many-year-old NGK narrowband O2 sensor, so I can't ascertain much about a/f. I did notice a couple counts of knock after crossing the boost threshold at half throttle.
I've also done a compression test. Warm with WOT, results were: 4)192, 3)195, 2)195, 1)192. All four cylinders were high (maybe carbon deposits in the cylinders of a factory built 150k mile engine?), but they were almost bang-on in relation to each other.
Where should I be focusing my attention?
So about a month ago I started working on the car again. I drained the fuel, replaced the fuel filter and all other liquids and filters, new bpr6es plugs (.28) and NGK wires, finished the harness swap and she fired up.
Symptoms: The car now starts, idles, and moves under it's own power, but it gets real unhappy when you start trying to make boost: bucks, and it backfires when you lift. If you stay below 5psi or so, the car is drive-able, but I've noticed that as soon as the engine warms up, and the ECU enters closed loop, it starts to stutter, run/idle very rough, and struggle not to stall.
The car still has the exhaust leak that made me park it. Might be a bad turbo to manifold gasket, cracked turbine housing on the 14b, or cracked manifold, or bad manifold gasket. Seems to be coming from that area.
It's throwing CELs for Fuel Pressure Solenoid, Wastegate Solenoid, and Crank Position sensor
What I've checked: I suspected Coolant Temp Sensor so I hooked up EVOScan and logged it, but it seems to be reporting temperature correctly. MAF sensor, intake air temp sensor, and barometric sensor seem to be giving sane vales. CPS reads zero while the car is running (this is what it's supposed to do right?), but I see it change value when starting. I only have a many-year-old NGK narrowband O2 sensor, so I can't ascertain much about a/f. I did notice a couple counts of knock after crossing the boost threshold at half throttle.
I've also done a compression test. Warm with WOT, results were: 4)192, 3)195, 2)195, 1)192. All four cylinders were high (maybe carbon deposits in the cylinders of a factory built 150k mile engine?), but they were almost bang-on in relation to each other.
Where should I be focusing my attention?
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