Weld another bolt to it or use the claw sockets that dig into the bolt as you turn.

Vegas smith said:

Weld another bolt to it or use the claw sockets that dig into the bolt as you turn.

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^^^^This. Prolly Gonna need to weld a bolt on it tho.

Another thought I have had before (didn't use it tho as the bolt finally came out) if you dont have a welder is drill and tap a hole in the bolt for a LEFT handed thread and then torque that bi*** in there till the one u want comes out.

I havent had this happen yet, but wouldnt one of these work?

http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors

That's what I was referring to

Thanks for the replies. Sadly I don't have a welder (one day I will), so I'll have to look around for the extractor you guys mentioned. I forgot about those. The extracotors I do have would break.

You weld a socket to the bolt, you dont weld another bolt.

Try to in weld a socket onto it

I would try getting the sockets made for stripped bolts. If that doesn't work you can always weld a nut to it but make sure you let it cool down before trying to move it. The heat will make the bolt expand in the flywheel and will be harder to remove until it cools.

I ended up getting this solved a couple weeks ago. I normally use a 12-pt socket for these bolts since I use a 1/2" drive breaker bar to break the torque. I ended up finding a 6-pt 17mm in 1/2" drive and that worked better. Had the same problem for the flex plate on my gsx's engine and it worked out.

General I never use a 12 point on high torqued or red loctited hex fasteners when breaking them free. They are usually weaker & have much less contact than 6 points sockets.

Yeah, I should have already known better.