2G Still can't find my issue car died again

AlexGsxCummins · Nov 6, 2017

Okay so I've had this intermediate sputtering problem with my car. I have put Ned plugs, wires, coil, ptu, alternator, fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors. Still no fix. Well today for the 2nd time it showed really badly, I went to the store when I left I came up to the light it died stumbled a little, restarted it and the gas pedal did absolutely nothing as it continues to stumble and die again I start it again while holding throttle at wot as I'm at a light trying to get out of the road and it starts revs to the 4k limiter and I take off and start driving and it begins to stumble and once again. The pedal does absolutey nothing at 0% throttle or 100%. It does this from 40 mph down to 15 then all of a sudden the car starts "jerking" back to life. And I get my power back. What else is left... 02? MAS?

Spideydsm99 · Nov 30, 2017

Yeah this time of the year completely blows. So you get off work and the sun is already going down or is down. :beatentodeath:

AlexGsxCummins · Nov 30, 2017

Right...im in Washington 4pm sun is gone.. been getting home around 7pm because works been heavy haha

AlexGsxCummins · Jan 10, 2018

Alright guys sorry it' been a while. No progress. I tested both the crank sensor and cam sensor both have full voltage and both go to 5v when I turn the motor by hand. I pulled the ecu again and don' see any burns marks but I'm tempted to send it off to be tested

AlexGsxCummins · Jan 10, 2018

I also tested it cold, checked out fine, then I started it till it started stumbing and dying then check it again and was still fine.

chrysler kid · Jan 10, 2018

Is your fuel pressure control solenoid hooked up to the fuel pressure regulator. It needs to be or you will have those symptoms on a hot restart of the motor

AlexGsxCummins · Jan 10, 2018

Just went and checked. There is no FPS

chrysler kid · Jan 10, 2018

The fps is used only after a hot restart to purge the fuel vapors out of the rail.

When mine was bypassed a hot restart would cause the car to run like it had a major boost leak, like it was a 2 cylinder car for about 30 seconds till it ran fine again

AlexGsxCummins · Jan 10, 2018

Mine is not acting like that mine will donit at any random time. Could be driving for a hour with no shut off and it will buck and shut off. But now it won't go anywhere it acts like it hits fuel cut and I lose all throttle response and car dies

93AWDDSM · Jan 10, 2018

Man, I feel for you. I just recently went through something like this on my 1g. Thankfully I have like spares of a lot of parts and was able to swap back and fourth. Mine ended up being an ecu issue. Would start up fine, run fine then all of a sudden sputter and slowly die (that was fun on the freeway :ohdamn:

) from that point on it would only crank/start and rough idle and when gas was applied it would just bog and die. While that was happening I could unplug the maf and get it to slightly idle but it wouldn’t move. Sometimes it would drive fine.

AlexGsxCummins · Jan 10, 2018

That is exactly the same issue I'm facing! I messaged Thomas, I'm hoping if they test it and everything I don't lose my tune

AlexGsxCummins · Jan 11, 2018

I may have found it but I need help the analog out brown wire is running out my passenger firewall and it just sitting there. Not sure where it's suppose to go?

boostjunkie92 · Jan 14, 2018

check the maf and plug for continuity

AlexGsxCummins · Jan 29, 2018

Did that a while ago, okay guys finally got into the new house found the laptop.. my wideband is not cycling.. when I plugged it in it was at .20v then I started the car and it went to .80v and stayed there and the reading were not matching the afx said 9.00:1 and the est was 17.1:1...does this seem like a broken wire or the 02 is bad.. the wire on pin 4 is solidly connected I checked.

93AWDDSM · Jan 31, 2018

So you sent your ecu off for testing or no?

Like I stated above, my ecu was basically doing the same thing. I swapped another known used good one in and issue solved. On the other hand, my car is stock-ish no tuning programs like ecmlink, only little MMCd LOL

!

AlexGsxCummins · Jan 31, 2018

No I didn't, I wanted check dsmlink first to make sure it wasn't something I could see obvious on there. So..I'm not the best with widebands yet.. sense it shows it not cycling on dsmlink would that be a sensor issue or wiring?

93AWDDSM · Jan 31, 2018

That should not cause the issues of your car like what I was referring to in my post. But I would check wiring first, then sensor (my o2 died and stopped cycling and on my logger it showed .01volts all the time). Maybe if your able to post a log from link someone could help you?

Vegas Smith · Jan 31, 2018

You would need to post a log because your statement of it not cycling is too vague.

AlexGsxCummins · Feb 1, 2018

here you go

Vegas Smith · Feb 1, 2018

Your wideband isn't reading right. Recheck the wiring or recalibrate it. Also, the car isn't entering closed loop. Do a search on switchpoint issues for narrowband simulation on that wideband too. I imagine this is all linked.

AlexGsxCummins · Feb 1, 2018

Well I went out there again and started it for fun and check around more. And it started working again voltage was going from .20 to .80 like it was suppose to and went into closed loop and didn't die on me, I looked over the wiring again and did find any wires broken.. I think the sensor must be on it's way out. And I have a 1g cas I'm going to switch to as Well because something tells me I have 2 problems here

Vegas Smith · Feb 1, 2018

These widebands can be real finicky. You may just have a bad connection on your wiring.

AlexGsxCummins · Feb 1, 2018

I know alot of people saay "oh yeah it's fine" but I actually checked over each wire and ohm tested the spots that I could

Slobonator4G63 · Feb 1, 2018

hey just going to chime in here and say if your running any O2 sensor a good test would be to take the sensor take a cloth of some sort and splash not douse but put a tad of gas and throw your o2 in there and see what it reads. I had an aem o2 sensor and I didn't have the best of luck and looking into the forms and post and youtube video came across a video that the guy did just that he turn the key to the on position put the o2 into the cloth and watch the o2 either sweep full rich and stay there or if the sensor was buggered up it went rich then straight lean well still in the cloth. this is probably the best way to test an o2 on the way out. I looked for your profile and didn't see any of your cars specs or if its stock. Are you simulating narrow band or are you running a WBO2?

AlexGsxCummins · Feb 1, 2018

Hey, I appreciate the response and it reminded me I did actually do that test I seen it on YouTube as well. It tested out fine that way I'm putting a new one on Anyway..i was messing with the fuel pump wires (p.o rewired it) and while moving the wires I could hear the fuel pump change tones.. I could not narrow it down I think I'll throw a new relay and redo all the connections just to be safe..

Slobonator4G63 · Feb 1, 2018

hey yah that's a pretty good start. I mean I'm assuming your setup for fuel pump bypass. 10awg all the way back to the pump and just using the stock trigger wire as the power to the coil of the relay. I haven't seen to many setups tho where guys aren't running a fuel pressure regulator.

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