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2G Still can't find my issue car died again

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AlexGsxCummins

AlexGsxCummins

Proven Member
395
34
May 31, 2014
Bremerton, Washington
Okay so I've had this intermediate sputtering problem with my car. I have put Ned plugs, wires, coil, ptu, alternator, fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors. Still no fix. Well today for the 2nd time it showed really badly, I went to the store when I left I came up to the light it died stumbled a little, restarted it and the gas pedal did absolutely nothing as it continues to stumble and die again I start it again while holding throttle at wot as I'm at a light trying to get out of the road and it starts revs to the 4k limiter and I take off and start driving and it begins to stumble and once again. The pedal does absolutey nothing at 0% throttle or 100%. It does this from 40 mph down to 15 then all of a sudden the car starts "jerking" back to life. And I get my power back. What else is left... 02? MAS?
 
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Alright guys, hopeully I'm getting closer.. first thing I did was reconnect my MAF (I feel I should say I'm not driving it in these conditions) made sure before I tested anything my problem was still alive..it was.. so I tested the MAF plug with the key "On" tested the red wire, found 12v.. tested the black wire to ground 0 ohms.. last wire can' recall the color had 4.6v. So I went and unplugged my TPS, started the car...ran perfect CEL popped up, figured from unplugging it. With the car running I plug back in my TPS car stayed running just fine. Shut the car off and turned it back on with no problems.... so would this indicate that my TPS is going out?
 
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Test it Unplug the TPS and measure the sensor itself with an ohmmeter. Should read between 3.5k-6.5k ohms between pin 1 (where the green/yellow wire connects) and pin 4 (black wire connects) - measure the sensor pins, not the wires.
Then between pin 2 (brown/red) and pin 4 (black), and also between pin 2 (brown/red) and pin 1 (green/yellow) - it should change smoothly as the throttle valve is opened/closed (one way increases resistance, the other decreasea. If not then it’s bad.
 
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1&4 =4.7k and the other 2 tests went as stated it should... one went up one went down smooth no open spots. Nether started with 0 ohms not sure if that matters. Also sense it was idling fine I decided to see if I could move it. As soon as I started to try To drive it, started to buck again so I pulled it back in..
 
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Just tested isc, also the injector resistor pack..(think that is the name..) All passed... I tested my wideband 02, with the gas in a rag trick..does this mean it works for sure..or could the voltage still be wacky? Running out of ideas
 
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So I do have a really big exhaust leak 2 inches after my wideband... Just noticed it.. regardless it' going to be fixed but could this cause issues... wideband is in the housing and the downpipe is hardly being held on...
 
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I know crappy picture, you can see my wideband if you look to the left there is the gasket for the downpipe that I can grab and wiggle the pipe and spin the gasket... maybe 1 inch off my wideband
 

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Is your GM maf run off a maf-t or run with DSM Link?

If its a maf-t and you still have stock injectors. I'd try and borrow a stock MAF and use that to see if your still having problems.

If its controlled by Link you will need to provide a log its possible your maf scaling is incorrect, or another tune related issue.
 
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well i fixed my exhaust leak.. seems to be running a little better i took it down the street and it didn't buck at all but its idling high, rich (9-10), when it was sitting idling it sputtered and died randomly....so lost. i have dsmlink v3. so all my settings should be saved from disconnecting the battery when i put in the new alt correct?
 
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AlexGsxCummins said:
well i fixed my exhaust leak.. seems to be running a little better i took it down the street and it didn't buck at all but its idling high, rich (9-10), when it was sitting idling it sputtered and died randomly....so lost. i have dsmlink v3. so all my settings should be saved from disconnecting the battery when i put in the new alt correct?
Click to expand...

Yes, all your settings should still be there even when you disconnect the battery.
 
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Go into link and check your settings to see if they jive with what you would expect them to be, maybe its defaulted to 450cc injectors or something.
 
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Just to go back over 2 things

Is dsmlink running the primary 02 sim setup so you can run the front wideband? An exhaust leak near the sensor can really mess with the ecu and cause some serious issues like youre describing

You should grab that laptop back out and make a log. There is either an issue with the ecu or one of the primary sensors going to it. The only way to see that is through the ecu
 
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Alright peoples I probed both crank and cam sensors here' what I got. It was dark so I couldn't see wire colors
Crank sensor (black connector I think it's the crank may have them backwards)
Ground wire - 0.04 ohms
Hot wire - 12.3 volts
3rd wire - 3.2 volts that at one point lowered to .9 then back to 3.4 volts
Cam sensor (gray connector again could have them backwards)
Ground - 0.06 ohms
Hot wire - 14.5 volts
3rd wire - 2.3 volts

Now I know I have to have the engine off in the test but I got home late wanted to at least test while running I'll do the spin motor by hand test tomorrow if possible if that test helps
 
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