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Vacuum leaks galore!

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Raab1

Proven Member
60
16
Aug 13, 2017
Sioux Falls, South_Dakota
Hey guys I followed another post on how to make a homemade boost leak tester because I was thinking I had a boost leak well low and behold I have all sorts of them. And all of the lines are a cobbled mess I feel like and I need someone smarter than me to look this over if you have a chance and tell me what is what here. Thanks a lot!
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This t is just cut off and leads to nowhere, and then seems like epoxy on whatever it's connected to. They were tucked behind the intake manifold.

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This nipple is leaking like crazy, I'm assuming it is supposed to go somewhere?
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Off the bcs the blue went to the intake and the black hose wasn't hooked up to anything
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Wastegate connects to the j pipe
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Been trying to get this thing running and driving right since I got it I really appreciate any help guys! Thanks! If anyone sees anything wrong or how to clean this up or make it right let me know!
 
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Please make this car right!!! It just makes me sad to see such a chopped up mess.
I know it, I have had my hands full the whole car has been like this... missing radio, missing interior, busted front bumper, all sorts of messed up and extra wiring, and these vacuum lines, oil leaks... that's only half of it... it's coming together though I hope to bring her back to her glory days!

Get you a new bov like a 1g or a Greddy. That way you can recirculate it back to the intake. Other wise it will not run right while driving.
Already on it! I ordered a hks with all the rest of the parts I order on extreme psi Black Friday sale. I got the recirculating insert as well... then I'll either just use a hose to bring it back to the intake or I'll figure something out. Thanks for the help guys!

What are all the letters on the vacuum lines in the diagrams? Are they supposed To stand for the size of line that is supposed to be used? Or can I just use whatever size as long as everything fits tight?
 
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The letters were for the original vacuum line that had a colored stripe down it. Since all of that would have rotted out long ago, you can ignore it and use whatever fits tightly.
 
So I went back and started taking parts off to make room to see what I am up against and what I will all need to pick up for vacuum line sizes and such and I came across a few questions.
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What is this and why would the bottom be blown out of it?
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Is this my Evap canister I read that it's usually square and by the front bumper but I have nothing up there and I also read that it can come under the battery tray? Did they ever come round like this or am I just a complete moron?
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Where is the bigger nipple on there supposed to have the vacuum line going to? The previous owner had it ran to a nipple on the intake? On the diagrams it shows nothing coming from there to the intake?
 
Well I can answer picture #1. Its your cruise control and is broken off just like the one in my 98 TSI. I was sad for mine. :cry:
Last pic looks like the kanutor valve.........
or part of the old evap crap :)
 
Well I can answer picture #1. Its your cruise control and is broken off just like the one in my 98 TSI. I was sad for mine. :cry:
Last pic looks like the kanutor valve.........
or part of the old evap crap :)
well that explains why the cruise doesnt work... so im assuming the bottom is mounted on the car somewhere in that area where the rest is supposed to be? have you looked into what it would take to fix the cruise? The last pic I believe is the purge control valve, I am just having a hard time seeing where the big nipple with no hose in the pic is supposed to go from the diagram
 
So quick question @Raab1 why not clean up all the vacuum line and delete them?

Haha I am actually researching it as we speak I think that is the smarter route since I found my egr solenoid has two broke nipples, so either get a block off plate or look for a new solenoid... I think I'm going to do the delete and just be done with it. I'm trying to find a good reference guide to everything I can remove and free up some space in the engine bay and clean everything up a bit. I just don't want to remove anything I should let but also remove all I can. One of the threads I saw the guy seems to put a plate between the egr but puts the egr back on? Why wouldn't he just put the block off plate on and get rid of the egr valve all together? If you have any pointers or a good reference guide I'd really appreciate it!
 
Lol that’s why I posted this way up top. Yeah get the egr block off plate and be done with it. This bottom diagram shows you exactly what to block off in red and shows you what to run as far as vacuum lines. As far as all the sensors are still plugged in electrically you’ll be fine.
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Now as far as the way to block off the egr valve there two ways of doing it. 1 is a cheap/free way if you have a soda can or something that you can cut and sandwich in between the intake manifold and the egr valve. Or option two go buy a actual block off plate and throw the valve away. I’ve done both and it doesn’t make a difference either way they both work. Oh and get a new egr gasket either way.
 
Yeah I saw that earlier I was just worried about not taking out the right crap I guess haha. So that round can in the pic is actually my evap canister for sure then? Also I read that some people that do the delete still use the fuel pressure solenoid? Should I do the same or is it pointless? Also instead of using a Mbc I am planning to use the factory boost control solenoid and just control it through link as my boost control. If I do that would I just hook that all up as normal on the factory vacuum diagram and just eliminate the rest of the vacuum mess besides the factory boost control?
 
Yes that round can is the Evan canister. Yeah not sure why some people do that I’ve always just capped it off like the diagram above. And for the factory boost controller I wouldn’t use it. It’s cheap and doesn’t allow for to much control. The best and cheapest I’ve found to control boost through a ecu is a Mac boost controller.
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Awesome you are a rockstar of info!! Well the reason I was wanting to run off the factory boost solenoid was because I'm really hoping to not have to run any aftermarket gauges... I actually threw the old a pillar gauge cluster and gauges in storage and picked up a stock gray a pillar to match and clean the interior up some. Anyone have any ideas of being able to run some sort of boost control without an aftermarket boost gauge or is it absolutely needed? Or is that Bc you're talking about Spidey good for that? I'm loving this forum and all the help this is fricken great!!
 
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