Just figured out how to upload a log. 1 degree at 39 second mark, and 15 degrees at 79 second mark. Does this log make sense? I bought the car a month ago so I don't know when the timing belt was replaced. It is 5 degrees BTDC with timing grounded. Thanks!

Not sure how to open your log as I use Ecuflash/Evoscan. But you definitely do not want 15 counts of knock! Was it under boost?

You may want to reduce timing in that load/RPM area. Also make sure you have smooth transitions from cell to cell. In general, as RPM increases, timing increases; as load increases, timing decreases.

You may be getting rich knock. You afest is 9.3 when knock hits hard. I'm not familiar with reading the stock o2 so maybe somebody can chime in about that. Also, you need to capture you isc position and battery voltage

99OZDSM said:

Not sure how to open your log as I use Ecuflash/Evoscan. But you definitely do not want 15 counts of knock! Was it under boost?

You may want to reduce timing in that load/RPM area. Also make sure you have smooth transitions from cell to cell. In general, as RPM increases, timing increases; as load increases, timing decreases.

Click to expand...

Yes it was under boost. Just don't want this thing blowing up on me. I can def reduce timing but it just seemed to be so much. Plus I'll have to smooth every around that area. So should I lower it by 15 degrees, or just a few and take another pull? Thanks

Vegas smith said:

You may be getting rich knock. You afest is 9.3 when knock hits hard. I'm not familiar with reading the stock o2 so maybe somebody can chime in about that. Also, you need to capture you isc position and battery voltage

Click to expand...

I never knew it knocked because it's too rich. I will capture both but I think the ISC is bad. When I check w V2, I couldn't get it to 30. Just wouldn't move at all when adjusting the BISS. The only time it moved was when I pressed throttle or when I turned the car off. I wasn't sure if tuning was impossible without it working properly. Guess that's my next purchase. Thanks!

What would you recommend I do next? Replace the ISC, or reduce timing, or remove fuel? Thanks!

Check your isc with multimeter and look on youtube for videos on how determine if the motor is working. Very simple stuff. Check for any air leaks if the isc is good and adjust your biss accordingly. How much boost are you running? Also, your throttle isn't hitting 100%. Are you not pressing down enough or is there a mechanical issue? You need a wideband.

Why isn't your aem wideband hooked up?

If your timing is indeed at 5 degrees btdc your spark plugs will tell you what you want to know, or point you in the correct direction. Make sure the plug gap is between .026" and .030. If the gap is to big it could miss and pick it up as knock or if its to tight it could knock, either way the knock sensor will pull timing.

If the plugs and timing look good I'd test the knock sensor because those are the only three things I can think of that would take 15 degrees of timing.

tk106 said:

Yes it was under boost. Just don't want this thing blowing up on me. I can def reduce timing but it just seemed to be so much. Plus I'll have to smooth every around that area. So should I lower it by 15 degrees, or just a few and take another pull? Thanks

Click to expand...

I can't open your log, I don't run ECMLink, which I assume is what you have. You are seeing 15 counts of knock? Our ECU is designed to pull 1 degree of timing for every 3 counts of knock. Normally you are only supposed to adjust 2-3 degrees of timing at a time. For 15 counts of knock you may need to do more. But this also may be an entirely different issue as others have brought up. 9.3 AFR is very rich and could be rich knock, but I don't think it is because our cars run around 9.5 AFR (if I remember correctly) at WOT from the factory.

Assuming everything is ok mechanically, you could try throwing 100 octane or so fuel into your car and run it. Higher octane fuel has a slower burn rate, which means it is more knock resistant than lower octane. If your knock count disappears or goes down with higher octane, then its a tuning issue.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wa...r-receive-no-replies-from-the-wisemen.443297/

Read. And read again.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/suggested-prerequisites-for-ecmlink-log-advice.511062/

Followed by that.

15 counts of knock is never good. but we need to know where the car is currently at as far as engine health goes before we can do much to help you.

Vegas smith said:

Check your isc with multimeter and look on youtube for videos on how determine if the motor is working. Very simple stuff. Check for any air leaks if the isc is good and adjust your biss accordingly. How much boost are you running? Also, your throttle isn't hitting 100%. Are you not pressing down enough or is there a mechanical issue? You need a wideband.

Click to expand...

I did check resistance from pins 1-2 2-3 4-5 5-6 and they're all 30 ohms. I even pulled it out and applied 6 volts to 2-5 and grounded 3-6 which made the ISC twitch. I'm purchasing a new one since its 25 years old. 16lb of boost. Yes I did notice that the TPS didn't reach 100%, so I'll look into that in the next few days. I do have AEBWB but don't know how to wire it to log. It was originally wired to pin 4 but I wired the factory O2 back in for base tuning. It was difficult to get base tune dialed in w WB since I had V2.

Dillan said:

If the plugs and timing look good I'd test the knock sensor because those are the only three things I can think of that would take 15 degrees of timing.

Click to expand...

Good idea. I will check the knock sensor in the next few days.

Dillan said:

If your timing is indeed at 5 degrees btdc your spark plugs will tell you what you want to know, or point you in the correct direction. Make sure the plug gap is between .026" and .030. If the gap is to big it could miss and pick it up as knock or if its to tight it could knock, either way the knock sensor will pull timing.

Click to expand...

They are gapped to .28 and I replaced w fresh NGKs a few weeks ago.

Vegas smith said:

Why isn't your aem wideband hooked up?

Click to expand...

Where do I hook it up to? Thanks

99OZDSM said:

I can't open your log, I don't run ECMLink, which I assume is what you have. You are seeing 15 counts of knock? Our ECU is designed to pull 1 degree of timing for every 3 counts of knock. Normally you are only supposed to adjust 2-3 degrees of timing at a time. For 15 counts of knock you may need to do more. But this also may be an entirely different issue as others have brought up. 9.3 AFR is very rich and could be rich knock, but I don't think it is because our cars run around 9.5 AFR (if I remember correctly) at WOT from the factory.

Assuming everything is ok mechanically, you could try throwing 100 octane or so fuel into your car and run it. Higher octane fuel has a slower burn rate, which means it is more knock resistant than lower octane. If your knock count disappears or goes down with higher octane, then its a tuning issue.

Click to expand...

Don't know if they sell 100 octane here. Can I add octane booster?

19gsx91 said:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wa...r-receive-no-replies-from-the-wisemen.443297/

Read. And read again.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/suggested-prerequisites-for-ecmlink-log-advice.511062/

Followed by that.

15 counts of knock is never good. but we need to know where the car is currently at as far as engine health goes before we can do much to help you.

Click to expand...

Ok I will read and read both threads. Thanks

tk106 said:

Where do I hook it up to? Thanks

Click to expand...

Wire it to your egr pin and then make sure you setup the wideband in your ecu inputs tab. then, make sure it is a captured and displayed value by right clicking on your stream while its not running.

19gsx91 said:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wa...r-receive-no-replies-from-the-wisemen.443297/

Read. And read again.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/suggested-prerequisites-for-ecmlink-log-advice.511062/

Followed by that.

15 counts of knock is never good. but we need to know where the car is currently at as far as engine health goes before we can do much to help you.

Click to expand...

I plan on changing the ISC since I don't think it's working properly. I will also go through the entire list on both posts to make sure all is in line. I'll have to research how to wire the WB so it's logged.

Vegas smith said:

Wire it to your egr pin and then make sure you setup the wideband in your ecu inputs tab. then, make sure it is a captured and displayed value by right clicking on your stream while its not running.

Click to expand...

Awesome. Thanks for the input. I blocked off the EGR so that won't be an issue.

Vegas smith said:

Wire it to your egr pin and then make sure you setup the wideband in your ecu inputs tab. then, make sure it is a captured and displayed value by right clicking on your stream while its not running.

Click to expand...

Vegas, Just want to make sure pin #53 is the correct location. Can you confirm? Thanks

http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf

yes