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1998 Eagle Talon TSi AWD street build

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Just placed another order with STM for a 38mm mv-s, turbo to manifold gasket, oil drain to turbo gasket, 90 degree silicone coupler, and new oil feed line. I'm sick of seeing the car sit there and not be driven so hopefully these parts come in quickly. Almost forgot what it was like to bwaaaaah-stututututu:(
 
Update:

Parts will be here sooner than expected, they'll be arriving the 22nd so expect picture updates then! My patience is running thin but I'm glad this endeavor is gettin going now!
 
Well all of my parts came in the mail yesterday. I couldn't wait any longer to get them on the car so last night I got the turbo mounted to the manifold and all of the lines in place ready to be bolted down. I had to dent my water pipe a bit to get the Black to fit on but now it's in there nice and tight. Only about a credit cards thickness away from the water pipe LOL (will post pictures later when I finish up).

The only thing I'm going to have an issue with is I ordered too big of a silicone 90 degree coupler to fit onto the turbo, I have some old rubber Intercooler piping laying around here so maybe I can make it work. Will post pictures up later today, and also the in depth setup.
 
Okay so I only ran into 2 problems:

1. My lower IC piping wasn't matching up with the pipe coming off the turbo. So I had to cock the pipe from the turbo to the side and over some and then I cut a 6 inch piece of the STM silicone hose to connect them together. Seems to be pretty stout and I'm hoping for no boost leaks.

2. I could NOT get the o2 sensor to come out of the old o2 housing. I used all my tricks, nothing worked. It ended up breaking after prying on it with a cheater bar. Sigh.

But the turbo, DP, all oil lines, and water lines are hooked up. I'm taking a snack break at the moment but when I continue I'll be tackling the wastegate and then making sure all my IC piping is ok.

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Well I found a water leak right behind the turbo, and as far as I could tell it was the small line that goes down to the OFH. Unable to actually see where the leak was coming from I decided that I could make a new hose instead of buying a new one. I did make a new hose and everything went just as planned. But then I started the car and let it idle and it still was leaking water from the same spot. The water pipe is leaking:( so I suppose I'll be looking to buy one and hopefully not break it:coy:

Other than that the setup looks killer! The downfiring compressor housing cleaned up the mess that stared you in the face when you opened the hood. Also, I'm running my wastegate dump out of the hood, I haven't marked and trimmed yet but that's what I'm gonna do once it's all running with no leaks LOL

I have the 8.40psi spring in the WG for now without my MBC between the pressure source and the WG just to be sure the boost doesn't jump around too much on me when I'm breaking it all in. Anyway here's some pictures until I can get an o2 sensor and water pipe.
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Well here's a short clip of the Black running at a measly 8psi while I get the small kinks worked out. Even at 8psi it is a moderately responsive turbo and sounds AMAZING. Way more work is gonna be put into this, stay tuned!

P.S. I'm working on fixing the compressor surge as we speak.

 
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dont mean to derail this thread anymore than I already do, but to any of you who like 3000gts/stealths this is not a picture of my car, but it is a picture of a setup that I'm heavily considering. A BW s362sxe single with a full custom setup. I currently have billet 15g's sitting and waiting to be put on. I think I'm gonna pull the motor again and do a 100% full tune up before I go through with it. Decisions decisions.
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I'm cooking up something good exterior wise for the dirty bird. When the car is running correctly I'll be pursuing the idea. Stay tuned:talon:
 
Okay so a small update:

Thanks to a couple members on here and EBay I have some much needed parts coming in. I bought a drivers side motor mount, a front bank o2 sensor, and a used FP manifold to FINALLY get rid of this tubular manifold. Will be posting pictures up when the parts go on!
 
I got the o2 sensor installed, prepped and painted the FP manifold, and the motor mount came too, but it's just as bad as the one on the car is now. :rolleyes: Can't win them all I don't guess. But here's some pictures of the manifold, so happy to get rid of this tubular manifold!
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Aaaaaaaaaaand cylinder #1 rod bearing is spun. It's not that big of a bummer though, it sucks but I'm not parting it out or anything stupid like that. I'll be on the lookout for a factory spec (or cheaper) shortblock while I build my split thrust block that's in it now. I may have found one but we shall see!
 
Update on the build:

Still trying to find a good split thrust shortblock at a good price. They're few and far between. The cars been sitting for a while now. I hate seeing it sit!
 
Okay so I've just decided to bite the bullet and deal with the down time. Im gonna pull the motor out and rebuild it myself as time and money allows. I've always wanted to build a 4g63 so I guess nows my chance! Just gonna buy pieces of the rotating assembly as money permits and eventually I'll get to the reassembly. I'm going to do a budget oriented performance engine rebuild so bear with me and feel free to add any pointers on parts. Here's a quick idea of what I'm going to buy:

-Manley forged rotating assembly
-different 272 came (found some scoring on both of mine)
-springs and retainers
-DSMLink
-better gauges

That's what I've got so far. Again, this is just a rough list.
 
Right on. Seems like forged is a good way to go then. I'd also recommend a Cometic MLS head gasket (or some other MLS gasket) and some ARP head studs for good measure; both are proven bits at that power level. Much higher than that and it seems like alot of people start o-ringing the head to block interface.

With the revision of the site, I've been meaning to contribute to the tech section with a good documenting of rebuilding a 4G63, but it's tough to find the time. I'm sure there are quite a few people here who can help you along the way. If you're looking for a pretty basic rundown on the process, I have some good pics on my build thread starting here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1992-vr4-71-1000.488672/

Pages 1-2 have the engine stuff. I skipped quite a few of the gnitty gritty steps in the thread, like measuring tolerances, checking ring gaps, priming the engine, etc..., but hopefully it helps a little.
 
Well. She's moved into her temporary home in the shed. Time to start labeling connectors and disconnecting them... And thank you for the link and tips. I'm way ahead of you on the headgasket and head studs. Cometic HG and L19 head studs are in order! TBC...
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Took pictures and made notes on where each connector goes before pulling them off. I didn't break any this time:hellyeah:

I've layed what part of the harness I've got out to the side over the fender. I think I'm gonna call it a night there and continue tomorrow.
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