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How to clean gasket from bottom of head without machine shop

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No offense but didn't you ask this question back in 2011 LOL?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/best-way-to-clean-off-the-old-head-gasket.407589/

Plastic scraper and gasket remover. Both are made by permatex and can be had at autozone. I have always taken mine to machine shops. I don't like to chance it. But I have gotten most of the old gasket off this way. Just can take a little time.

On the block I use this with good results when using composite gaskets
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I probably would not use it on the head though.
 
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Never ever ever use one of those on a gasket surface. Guaranteed leaks if you do. Use a razor blade and scrape it like ice/frost off your windshield. If you have the head apart, I like to use some 180grit on a long block. It's important to keep it flat and not dig in anywhere.
 
Aircraft stripper and a non metal brush.

After they are cleaned check the block and head with a straight edge and feeler gauge. If either surface is more than .0015" out of flat get it surfaced. If you plan on using a metal gasket get both surfaced no matter what.
 
Razor blade like most have said. Alum is soft and any type of DIY machine will probably leave it uneven as others have said. Never use one of those wheels on the Aluminum.

I hear the yellow works good on a block but have never tired it.
 
I always used a razor blade, scotchbrite pad, and some brake cleaner to clean composite gasket remains. Takes some scrubbing, but works well.
 
Thanks everyone for your ideas. I don't see a whole lot of advice for cleaning the material off of aluminum. I did use some oven cleaner, hopefully it didn't weaken the head material. Still was dirty after that. I got the plastic scraper, but they didn't have gasket cleaner in a aerosol can at autozone.

Does it matter which scotch brite pad? As example green scratches stainless steel.

I am using just the stock style of head gasket.

Someone mentioned I already asked this in 2011; well I bought a rebuilt head so I never ended up cleaning the one I was asking about back then.

Wow the DSM scene has dwindled quite a bit, and the "fast and furious" marketing is long gone and dead. The value of everything DSM seems to have plummeted.
 
I've always used a razor, steel wool and some glass cleaner. Before installing I clean with brake cleaner and haven't had an issue.

The value of the nice DSM's have not plummeted, I've been offered 15k+ for my car which I thought was a dang good offer. Parts are more obtainable but yet the great companies that are sticking around to support the DSM have put in some work to make that possible.
 
Never ever ever use one of those on a gasket surface. Guaranteed leaks if you do. Use a razor blade and scrape it like ice/frost off your windshield. If you have the head apart, I like to use some 180grit on a long block. It's important to keep it flat and not dig in anywhere.

I use the yellow one only on the block with composite gaskets. Im at 32psi on my HX40 leak free.
 
I wouldn't get to wound up about anything that goes on at Bob is the oil guy. Lots of keyboard scientists over there.

Anyway when I do it, I use a razor blade to scrape. The gasket does leave a slight impression in the head, only way to.remove that is to surface it. So just get the deck cleaned of gasket material. I wipe it with a rag and brake cleaner, and assemble it. Gasket on the block no studs, set the head on, arp lube washers and place them. Oil block end of the studs lightly, arp lube the nut end, install finger tight. Arp lube nuts. Torque 30-60-90-105. Done. Proven on my shitbox to hold a f***load of power.
 
The basic principle is to use a gasket scraper and brake cleaner, make sure the surface is clean and debris free.

Aluminum block and aluminum head they always say the plastic razor blade scraper. And brake cleaner.

Agreed, Bob the oil guy forums are keyboard scientists.

Just don't use a hard abrasive, and definitely do not use air tools or power tools on aluminum. Do not use anything that would disrupt the hatching of the aluminum weave on the head or block.

On the oil pan gasket I rough up the block pretty hard to get the rtv to grip the block and pan. Never spun a bearing with those brite pads
 
I still wouldn't. It's too easy to remove material from the block. Razor blade and sanding block.


I still wouldn't. It's too easy to remove material from the block. Razor blade and sanding block.

I have tried both of those methods as well. The razor blade never would get everything off of the block for me no matter how much I tried. It might have just been discoloration from the gasket, but I didn't want to risk it and always hit it with the yellow wheel. The sanding block made a mess. I put bearing grease around all the pistons/cylinder walls to catch the debris, but it still got down in the galleys and the holes for the studs and was a PITA to get out. If the block was disassembled that would be a great method, in the car not so easy.
 
I used the oven cleaner to clean an exhaust up. Looks new again, minus it took a little of the Apexi purple-ish hue off the surface.
Yes, lye is what is used to strip anodizing from aluminum in the professional anodizing world, we used it to clean our motocross raw aluminum engines for years when there was baked on mud and they come out pretty nice with it, you can use the aluminum safe version if you want to leave it on for a longer period of time, the regular stuff if left on for very long will turn aluminum black which can be removed with aluminum wheel cleaner that contains phosphoric acid.
 
Lye only would eat aluminum if left on it for days literally LOL, on a rag it works perfect as does paint stripper, been a dealer mechanic for a long while, do it for a living.
Yeah i get that. I'd be more concerned about what might get in and left in passages unless you're cleaning everything right away. I'm not a fan of the practice.
 
For those using a flat bar and wet sanding to finish a block surface, shaving cream will fill holes and catch debris. works well, and stuffing a rag in the cylinders will let you wipe them out easily. Just use some brake clean in bolt/stud holes and blow with compressed air, wipe with clean rag.

Aircraft stripper is amazing on a head and block surface, but messy. I prefer judicious amounts of elbow grease, a razor (or 10), brake clean or mineral spirits, some blue shop paper towels and a microfiber cloth.

For the head, it's 35-50 bux to clean and surface a head, at least around here. Well worth it vs dinking around with alot of different "maybe" or "mostly clean" methods.

the higher cost gets you up to a ~20ra finish, Prices vary by location, but that's the most I've paid on my last 5 engines, varying platforms.
 
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