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auto trans durability thread

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The biggest mistake is running your dsm hard with old tired fluid and the stock transmission cooler, especially if you're running a good amount of boost. I learned this the hard way, back when I didn't know any better LOL. That trans lasted 90k of absolute abuse practically stock, until I had the line pressure increased. It took the 7500 revs of the 2.0 and later when swap to the 2.3, the hard launches on the stock cooler. I think that says it all, these automatics are amazingly strong.
 
Daren Thomas @ Daren Thomas racing puts down about 1200hp with upgraded valve body and stock drive line. Obviously not stock converter. So, I'd say it will handle most anyone's requirements. Heat is always the enemy when it comes to automatic transmissions. For every 10* of temp above like 200* shortens trans life by 10k miles. I agree with upgraded trans cooler and relocation.
 
For sure put the biggest cooler you can and locate it well. Put a fan on it like we do. Heat is the "clutch" enemy of auto's....but I want one! :p
 
Im in on this thread because i want to read everyones story!

Im an auto and next year / this year kind of i want to road race in time attack! So its a little tricky as heat is a killer but a huge cooler will help and i may even have to get 2 coolers, i am not 100% sure but 99% of me thinks i will be the first and only time attack/road racing guy using an AUTO! If anyone knows another auto road racer please let me know,
 
I'm currently at 170k stock with a K&N filter. I have a IPT built valvebody with a new plate and shift kit at full line pressure ready to go in but plan on putting a Derale cooler with fan in the stock SMIC location. Fingers crossed the trans holds together with the real mods waiting to go in. I might even do the old Honda flush trick and do the filter and pan gasket twice in a row running through the gears to be safe.
 
Wish we had more activity in the Auto Trans subthread. Like everyone else I'm real interested aswell. Will be picking up my 1st automatic DSM on Tuesday (my 4th DSM but 1st auto). Car has around 115miles with recent servicing and a Big B&M trans cooler installed (also has a shiftbox). Really looking forward to playing with the auto trans to see what it can do
 
Wish we had more activity in the Auto Trans subthread. Like everyone else I'm real interested aswell. Will be picking up my 1st automatic DSM on Tuesday (my 4th DSM but 1st auto). Car has around 115miles with recent servicing and a Big B&M trans cooler installed (also has a shiftbox). Really looking forward to playing with the auto trans to see what it can do
I think apart from mkdified valve bodies and shiht spring kit and an actual shift kit not much else is to be done, a TQ is good for drag racing but nothing is listed for road racing an auto! They are pretty strong so thats possibly why its not alot going on!

Unless things like the 3KGT internals are stronger i i hear they the same so internals,
 
A little search on "Jeff bush" will show you a little more insight on automatic upgradability. You can put $10k in parts in an auto trans by the time your done. Billet drums, shafts, gears, etc.



However like already mentioned, until 8s and faster, all that you should need to consider doing is kiggly clutches, a shift kit to up the line pressure during shifts, a good cooler, shift box, and converter.


People should consider Darren Thomas racing more. That is my trans builder and wouldn't consider another. Not saying that because I don't believe others are good - but when you find a situation you like, you stay with it. And that's how I feel about DTR
 
Road racing + automatic don't normally go together due to properties of atf and the fact it will be almost impossible to keep the fluid cool. Even though most a/t will use hygard fluid instead of ATF
 
Road racing + automatic don't normally go together due to properties of atf and the fact it will be almost impossible to keep the fluid cool. Even though most a/t will use hygard fluid instead of ATF

Is that a recommended upgrade to let's say Amsoil race atf?
 
Road racing + automatic don't normally go together due to properties of atf and the fact it will be almost impossible to keep the fluid cool. Even though most a/t will use hygard fluid instead of ATF
True that, im wanting to see what it can do, i have 1 big cooler going in with previsions of another tha i can add inline if needed and logging the temps to make sure its not over heating, also plans to make a bigger pan for more volume and possible cooling plates below to keel the pan cooler too.

I currently use RP max atf and had bought some millers atf but was recently told about the JD hygard so thats on my list to buy next,
 
Mine has just under 140k and runs fine other than sluggish shifts. Everything is stock on this car other than the ebay 16g I bought it with.

For sure put the biggest cooler you can and locate it well. Put a fan on it like we do. Heat is the "clutch" enemy of auto's....but I want one! :p

So you're saying adding a fan to the trans cooler as well?
 
We run one on the son's Auto car. It is not a stock car by any means though. If you are just driving as a daily, then it should be fine. If you are racing in any fashion, then a fan is a good idea so you don't heat up the clutch packs and cut short the service life of the transmission, they are pretty darn strong if kept cool and maintained.
 
For road racing an auto, I'd consider putting an air to air trans cooler inside an ice box or build a water2air system.
 
Running fans is well for slow speed but they do tests where anything over like 30mph makes the fans not work well since air passing through it is more effective! Great for when in the pits though to help aid cooling quicker
 
http://chiseledperformance.net/transcooler.htm - this looks like a pretty good product, but I'd probably not plumb it into my existing water to air intercooler system..... just because I don't want trans temp to bring the intake air temp up higher than ambient. Of course this probably also leans heavily on how large your heat exchanger for the system is. It might be fine to run both coolers on the same water system with the right sized exchanger.
 
Running fans is well for slow speed but they do tests where anything over like 30mph makes the fans not work well since air passing through it is more effective! Great for when in the pits though to help aid cooling quicker
We have mounted coolers in various positions, so when we mount one that isn't forward facing, say 45* sideways, that's the kind of thing I was thinking about but for sure at some point, a fan isn't needed if they face the incoming air.
 
Let's keep this thread alive! We need a good auto cooling/durability thread!

Car made 443awhp/343TQ on dyno dynamic. The trans has Kiggly 5 disk and IPT clutch kit. I only have 2,500 miles on the trans but the trans has numerous 9 second passes from the previous owner, he ran Hy-Guard.

I run Amsoil ATF with a large B&M cooler(Don't remember the size) in the SMIC location with a second smaller cooler in front of the radiator. I do have Mishimoto's oil cooler fan installed on the B&M cooler with a toggle switch, I only turn this on when the temps get near 200*.

Before I installed the second cooler and added a vent in my bumper to the larger cooler, I was seeing 220* after the cooler on 90*+ days. With it being in the 50*s right now, the temp wont get over 150* but it was designed to cool when it is hot at the strip. The second cooler is a small Derale fin cooler 11x5.75. I attached the cooler directly to the radiator which I hear can raise the temp from the car being at 185-195. My target is to keep the trans at 180* as that is where my stall seems to be 2-4 seconds and a safe temperature.
 
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the 2 cooler method is good as it also add volume of fluid! i hope to have my 1 huge true cool oil cooler all installed by feb/march so then i can do some logging with the gauges I have bought for it. I have also been told HY guard is the best stuff for our trans and its alot better for heat! I currently run max atf from RP and it does the job so far but i dont log temps but its still red and non burnt
 
The 6/4 Auto car I picked up a few months ago has 180k and the trans shifts firm and feels great, but I am running a shiftbox in it. I checked the fluid and it looks and smells fine but I will be putting a new filter in this spring.
So Hyguard is recommended for the fluid? Is that a John Deere product? What are the characteristics that make it a better fluid, I want the best for mine that's for sure.
 
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