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3g upper/lower control arms??

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I figured that was the case already, just wanted someone else to verify it for me.

Still looking at the rear though. 98 tsi awd would mean the knuckles are different but everything else should be relatively plug and play, well, as plug and play as our cars are.
 
Upper arms= yes
Lower lateral arms = No
Prothane make a kit for the 3g. So you can get what you need though.

To correct this post, I have fit 2g Prothanes on both upper and lower 3g arms. The difference between the two lower arms is that the 2g has a bigger opening on one side than the other therefore the bushing sleeve has a step on it. All you really have to do is remove the step on the bushing sleeve. Any machine shop can put the sleeve in a lathe and turn it down. All I did was grind it down with a bench grinder. Way less precise and a lot more ghetto but it works.
 
I figured that was the case already, just wanted someone else to verify it for me.

Still looking at the rear though. 98 tsi awd would mean the knuckles are different but everything else should be relatively plug and play, well, as plug and play as our cars are.

Rear arms and sway bar will bolt on, but the exhaust pipe will have to be moved a little to clear the sway bar.
The front arms are totally different, Here is a pic of the 3g.

03 Front Conrtol Arms... 00-02 swap? - Club3G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Forums
 
3G & 4G is equivalent to 1G and Evo front suspension - most likely "almost" interchangeable. Totally different to the 2G / 93-8 Galant suspension.

The 99/3 & 4g wheel bearings are "very slightly" different, they are in essence completely interchangeable with the single wrinkle that you have to use the matching brake rotor. Pre-99 2G wheel bearings have a single, smooth transition from the centre ring to the hub face plate; 99 and 3/4G have a multiply-contoured transition instead - pre-99 rotors will not sit flush on the 99+ hub. I do not know whether 99+ rotors will fit on pre-99 hubs.

99+ hubs are cheaper and easier to acquire, so it probably would be worth making the switch when the front hubs wear out. There will come a time when the pre-99 hubs will be NLA, and that will happen years before the 99+ hubs go the same way.
 
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What I have known is the 99 and 3g shares he same front wheel bearing, But the 95 - 98 are totally different, so that makes me think that only the 99 will share the same front arms.
Don't quote me on this, But hopefully some one can chime in and gives a clear answer.

ACM layed it out nicely, ^^^
Can you post a picture of the modifications you performed to your exhaust to get the 3g sway bar to fit correctly?
 
Here is my set up with a 3g sway bar and lower control arms.

Here is where I cut the exhaust pipe and add a 3 or 4inch coupler to make the curve back, so it can clear the 3g sway bar.
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My exhaust was sitting 3, 4 inches inside my tail, so adding that coupler brought my exhaust to an almost perfect location.
Here you can see it.
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Here are some other pics so you can see how good it came up.
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I didn't do any modifications to the member, the sway bar bolted on like it was made for it.
 
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To correct this post, I have fit 2g Prothanes on both upper and lower 3g arms. The difference between the two lower arms is that the 2g has a bigger opening on one side than the other therefore the bushing sleeve has a step on it. All you really have to do is remove the step on the bushing sleeve. Any machine shop can put the sleeve in a lathe and turn it down. All I did was grind it down with a bench grinder. Way less precise and a lot more ghetto but it works.

If your going to go to that much trouble you might as well fine the right sized poly for it. Demon Tweaks sells universal poly bushing in lots of sizes. You might be able to find one that fits or requires very minor tweaking.

Kevin
 
So is that a factory 3g GT rear swaybar? Or a larger aftermarket one?
 
That's a good point. I was never sure if there would be enough force to have a significant impact on the bushings. It was OEM design after all, one would like to think it'd last the life of the car in that configuration. Perhaps not in aggressive conditions.
 
3G & 4G is equivalent to 1G and Evo front suspension - most likely "almost" interchangeable. Totally different to the 2G / 93-8 Galant suspension.

The 99/3 & 4g wheel bearings are "very slightly" different, they are in essence completely interchangeable with the single wrinkle that you have to use the matching brake rotor. Pre-99 2G wheel bearings have a single, smooth transition from the centre ring to the hub face plate; 99 and 3/4G have a multiply-contoured transition instead - pre-99 rotors will not sit flush on the 99+ hub. I do not know whether 99+ rotors will fit on pre-99 hubs.

99+ hubs are cheaper and easier to acquire, so it probably would be worth making the switch when the front hubs wear out. There will come a time when the pre-99 hubs will be NLA, and that will happen years before the 99+ hubs go the same way.

So can someone confirm that the front suspension for a 3g/Evo is the same as a 1g. That would be sweet if true but I can't find any information confirming this.
 
While searching for what Prothane bushings I need to use for 3g rear UCA's on my 2g, I stumbled across this very informative thread.
REAR Prothane Bushing Install Information - Club3G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Forums

The most interesting point made in there is the difference between 2g/3g RS/GS (4 cylinder) and 3g GT/GTS (6 cylinder) toe arms. This might be common knowledge among people in this thread, but I had never heard of it before.

I thought this a minor inconvenience at first as I could easily make a bushing that would fit the arms larger outer diameter. That’s when I started digging into the differences between 2g Eclipse and 3g Eclipse toe arms. The 2g Eclipse and 3g Eclipse FOUR CYL cars use the same toe arms as each other, NOT the SIX CYL. The 6 cyl 3g Eclipse (gt or gts) use toe arms which are not only different in part number, but different in the way they work as well.

The inner toe arm bushing on a 2g Eclipse and 3g Eclipse 4 cyl is a “simple bushing.” Basically a very hard piece of rubber with a steel sleeve through the center. The 3g Eclipse 6 cyl uses an actual swiveling joint. It’s similar to a ball joint in the way it can move. It has a much greater range of movement than a simple bushing. There is also no flex in this joint like you would find with a rubber bushing. It’s very rigid, hence no need for an after market bushing.

2g and 3g Eclipse 4 cylinder simple bushing:
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3g Eclipse 6 cylinder pivoting bushing:
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See the pivoting motion:
M4H01076.mp4 Video by buddhalawton | Photobucket
 
Yup, here's a part list and part numbers for the rear LCA's and sway bar set-up

Rear sway bar / MR369694 / $44.56 each / Qty required, 1
Rear sway bar end link / MR333762 / $14.78 each / Qty required, 2
Rear sway bar end link nut / MB288653 / $0.94 each / Qty required, 4
Rear sway bar bushing / MR272717 / $2.95 each / Qty required, 2
Rear sway bar bushing bracket / MR369748 / $1.36 each / Qty required, 2
Rear sway bar bushing bracket bolt / MF241281 / $0.94 each / Qty required, 4
Lower control arm left / MR369664 / $30.71 each / Qty required, 1
Lower control arm right / MR369665 / $30.71 each / Qty required, 1

There are different sway bar part numbers for the 2.4 and 3.0. The ones above are the 3.0, they should have came with a larger rear bar.

And UCA part numbers...

Upper control arm left MR369955
Upper control arm right MR369956

Rear spindals are the same as well, same part number.

These are GreenGoblin's pictures of the parts on his car. Hope it's ok with him that I post them...

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And a How-To on Mitsu-Media
3g rear sway bar in 2g RS, GS and GST only/no GSX/ - Mitsu-Media

I am planning on doing this in January. Question is that this set up is different than the rest on this post. The sway bar links are mounting on the front of the lower control arm rather than back like everyone else. I assume that is the 3g sway bar from what you said at the bottom with the link (Link doesn't work for me). Also everyone using the 3g sway bar is using the 3g sway bar links but you are using the 2g sway bar links. I like your set up better than the rest because everyone else the sway bar sits way low at the ends and yours are tucked way up away from the ground.

Just want to make sure I understand it fully like your set up better because my car sits way low and don't want to ruin my sway bars if they bottom out. Thanks.
 
I am planning on doing this in January. Question is that this set up is different than the rest on this post. The sway bar links are mounting on the front of the lower control arm rather than back like everyone else. I assume that is the 3g sway bar from what you said at the bottom with the link (Link doesn't work for me). Also everyone using the 3g sway bar is using the 3g sway bar links but you are using the 2g sway bar links. I like your set up better than the rest because everyone else the sway bar sits way low at the ends and yours are tucked way up away from the ground.

Just want to make sure I understand it fully like your set up better because my car sits way low and don't want to ruin my sway bars if they bottom out. Thanks.

When I first installed the setup, I had the control arms switched which made the bar hang down.

I corrected the issue and now the sway bar "end" is above the control arm.

Side Note: I'd make a spacer for the sway bar brackets (like how the 3G has), which is 7/8". The oem 3G bar comes to a point in the middle which interfered with my subframe/crossmember.
 
When I first installed the setup, I had the control arms switched which made the bar hang down.

I corrected the issue and now the sway bar "end" is above the control arm.

Side Note: I'd make a spacer for the sway bar brackets (like how the 3G has), which is 7/8". The oem 3G bar comes to a point in the middle which interfered with my subframe/crossmember.

Are you using the 3g sway bar? I ask because it's red and I can't seem to find an after market rear sway bar and that you are using a 2g sway bar link.
 
can anybody confirm the weight of the 3g parts compared to the 2g. And maybe a over all weight savings?
 
2g and 3g upper arms are within a couple grams of each other when I weighed them.

2g 1426grams
3g 1429grams

Both were used arms with old bushings. I didn't weigh the lower arms.
 
So not really worth doing the uppers for a 4g difference LOL , anyone weighed the lower?
 
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Does anyone else see an issue here? And why the 3G bar is SIGNIFICANTLY bigger in diameter (and heavier bar if not hollow)!

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The sta-bar (sway-bar if you haven't read my other posts) loads the control-arm OFF CENTER-LINE. The sta-bar imparts twist into arm & bushings, and the conical rate of these bushings is relatively low... this system has very poor efficiency, hence the huge diameter sta-bar.

If you mount a GoPro and watch this during cornering the LCAs will look like Chubby Checker.

Personally, I see no advantages for the 3G system, only disadvantages. Sorry.
 

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Back from the dead thread. Adapter and spacer mount. 3g 22mm st rear bar. Now I have not done yet but some custom strut mount bolts will be in order. So the links will bolt to the knuckle and not the lca
 

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