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Not a good day at the autocross

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It looks worse than it is, had to take the fender off, to get the bumper off, to get it on the trailer.
My Paul Volk lower arms are ok except it sheared the ball joint in two, but they are replaceable so hooray!
At least I confirmed my overheating issue is fixed.

Damn. That sucks the big one. But.....silver linings about the overheating issue.
 
A few setbacks on getting the car fixed, ordered the wrong couplers for the intercooler, found some damage to the toe arm.
Getting closer to back on the track, sucks having the car garaged 350 miles away. At least I have a back-up DSM.
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So is this un-bling or anti-bling?
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I run 275 width R-comps on a road course with stock oil pan / no dry sump. No issues. YMMV.

Do you run A compound Hoosiers or a "lesser" race tire?

My son lost his engine at the last autox, we suspect it was due to a LONG left turn and his relatively soft suspension (body roll in the "wrong", for oil pickup, direction).

Not sure what is worse, a long high G turn, or a shorter duration Higher G turn.
I figure if a 3qt accusump is fast enough for autocross maneuvers, it shoul be fine for road racing.
 
Finally got the car back together, and after having the front axle come apart twice, found this. Could explain the "sloppy" feel of the car.

I suppose I will have to install those aluminum subframe bushings now. No more excuses.

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Was planning on looking for a replacement.
I'll probably look into welding some reinforcements in (because hoosiers).

I think I got all the other bent items replaced.
 
Ouch!

Might be a good time to raise the pick-up points on the replacement. Might as well while it's out of the car...

By that you mean change where the suspension components mount? Unfortunately, that is where Street Modified Rules draw the line, chassis mounting points need to remain stock :(
 
By that you mean change where the suspension components mount? Unfortunately, that is where Street Modified Rules draw the line, chassis mounting points need to remain stock :(
Ahh, bummer. So not that I'm advocating that you start cheating, but how would they ever know? I only ask because I'm curious how they determine a car's inboard mounting points have been moved up a half inch? (provided the fab work was done well enough that you can't tell just by looking at it)
 
Ahh, bummer. So not that I'm advocating that you start cheating, but how would they ever know? I only ask because I'm curious how they determine a car's inboard mounting points have been moved up a half inch? (provided the fab work was done well enough that you can't tell just by looking at it)


Something new at this year's Nationals... every car had to sit on jackstands with the front wheels off while in impound for free and clear inspection by your competitors. This is after the run heat is over.
 
Samuel would know and it'd eat at his soul. ;)

I kind of want to win based on my driving ability (and to a much lesser extent my car building prowess, or my ability to copy what Charles Moss has done).
 
Something new at this year's Nationals... every car had to sit on jackstands with the front wheels off while in impound for free and clear inspection by your competitors. This is after the run heat is over.

They have been doing this for a few years now, mostly in the Street classes, as any illegal changes from stock would be more obvious. I guess some guy this year didn't bring a jack and didn't want to borrow one; being midpack he just took the DSQ.

Illegal - not following the class rules.
Ileagle - not obeying the laws of physics in an automobile.
 
Finally got the subframe out, and it's worse than my previously posted picture appeared. At least I have a replacement now.
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When I saw the ball joint sheared in the first pic I told my wife that your car will be way worse off than you thought. Sucks but not surprised. Hope you get it all back together and you should really look over everything several times. Esp your control arms. If they are powder coated they could easily be hiding cracks.
 
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