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2G 7 bolt swap to 6 bolt swap

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Eduardo Sanchez

Probationary Member
14
0
May 26, 2015
Modesto, California
Looking to see what's the easiest way to do the job. I'll be changing flywheel and clutch while I'm at it. Is it easier to pull out the engine and transmission together or does the transmission need to be unbolted to pull the engine out. I'm getting apr flywheel bolts and a stage three endurance clutch from southbend. As for flywheel I'll be running th act 11 pound flywheel. Any other recommendations while I'm getting into this swap
 

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ive always pulled both at teh same time remove the crank pully and both motor mounts on the left and right of the car lower the motor enough to get the trans mount turn motor lift straight up normally takes 2 hours to pull a eclipse motor and trans way less time if youve done it 2.3 million times LOL....
 
Thanks for your response. I'll defiantly be pulling out together. Tomorrow I'll be trying to pull it. With the head being off right now I know it will be slightly easy. I've pull the engine out before without the transmission. But this time I'm trying together.
Axles do have to be pulled out before taking out transmission. This this mean I have to take off the tie rods and drop the knuckle to pull axles out?
 
I did it separately, takes me an hour and a half to pull the tranny and then I'll pull the motor out after just seems easier to me than trying to angle the entire thing without hitting or messing anything up but that's just me. If you have the space to do it all at once by all means.

To answer your axle question me personally I unbolt the compression arm (the side attached to the chassis) then the LCA (same thing the body side) take the wishbone looking piece that attaches to the strut. and then take the axle out. or you can take out the LCA from the knuckle completely but in my experience I always had to use a pickle fork to separate it and always end up ripping the boots.
 
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I would personally drop the transmission and engine together, I would also change out the rear main seal ( behind the flywheel) just so you wont have to go in again in a while. You can either take a tie rod off or pop the control arm out either way it shouldn't be too hard to take the axle out.
 
I did it separately, takes me an hour and a half to pull the tranny and then I'll pull the motor out after just seems easier to me than trying to angle the entire thing without hitting or messing anything up but that's just me. If you have the space to do it all at once by all means.

To answer your axle question me personally I unbolt the compression arm (the side attached to the chassis) then the LCA (same thing the body side) take the wishbone looking piece that attaches to the strut. and then take the axle out. or you can take out the LCA from the knuckle completely but in my experience I always had to use a pickle fork to separate it and always end up ripping the boots.

Get a ball joint separator from any parts store or harbor freight. That $20 has saved me tons of boots. Plus you can periodically check the bjs for wear without destroyng them.
I popped the upper bj loose and tie rod ends. Getting the axles out and in can be annoying.
Just like to add on an auto you need to angle it pretty steep to pull it together, and its a tight squeeze but doable.
 
If you dont want your underhood area all dented and scratched up pull them seperate! in fact I pull the head and crank pulley from the engine so all I have to pull is a bare block.
 
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