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98 GS-T questions

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devintaylor1998

Probationary Member
24
0
Jun 16, 2017
Berlin, Wisconsin
hey guys, just became a part of the DSM community (finally). The one I am in the process of buying is a 1998 GS-T with some mods (Greddy axle back I do believe, 16g turbo, Greddy type S BOV, greddy boost controller, 650cc injectors, other stuff I can't think of right now but I will post later) but it has boost leaks and runs super super rich. The coupler from the intercooler piping to turbo inlet is dryrotted (the guy just wrapped some duck tape around it to help reduce leaks, also if anyone knows of where I can just get a coupler that would be really helpful) and the air intake (coupler?) is ghetto but it's an Injen and I'd like to save it if possible. I couldn't complain at all, car was less than 2 grand with a little over 150xxx miles. Guy also claims it has a 6 bolt but I won't know until I pull off the flywheel (if there's an easier way, please let me know). I know I need an AFR, and some ECU parts to get it tuned. I make about 400 weekly working where I do and would rather go a cheap but reliable way for upgrades, so if anyone knows of reliable cheap parts such as ECU parts so I can get it tuned and a cheap yet reliable AFR gauge that would be helpful in many ways. Also would like your guys opinions on Glowshift, I hear they aren't the best but if it makes due for now I'd go with that. Sorry for the long post but I need all the help I can get haha. Thanks for all the help
 
It has upgraded injectors and fuel pump. Walbro 225 and 650cc injectors, not sure of which brand they are though.

When it misfires it smells of gas extremely bad. My buddy said it had black smoke coming out of the exhaust? I thought that this was because of to much fuel.

I mispronounced what I meant, I meant to say running rich but I was on break at work when I wrote that LOL.

This is a newbie question, but I've only experienced rich, never rode in a vehicle that ran lean. If it runs lean does that just mean it has fuel cut or something along those lines?
 
Most local auto parts stores have couplers.

I believe if its a 6 bolt it should not have a crank angle sensor. Just a cam sensor on the passenger side of the head.

I wouldn't recommend those. They are for those diy cold air intakes. Bought one and it started separating within a few weeks
 
Actually, it was a good plan LOL. It ran fine on the way home. Minus the misfire. Other than that I got to enjoy Boost launches a few times when the misfire was gone. Like I posted before, after half an hour or so of it driving or if I turn it off more than once and turn the key to crank it, the misfire comes back. Getting new plugs, wires, etc next week for it.

I just duck taped the old coupler for now seeming as that would do (hey, it fixes everything right?) until I can actually order the right size. On the bright side, it's hard piped to the stock intercooler. But I'm looking to get a front mount eventually.

Oh, had a guy in a lifted newer model Duramax talking shit to me at the local gas station here in my hometown. Let's just say the BOV after I took off from filling her shut him up LOL
 
Not trying to be rude, but I just don't want you to be made to look like a fool. Don't go around splashing your BOV in people's faces. That duramax likely could have easily pulled out and smoked your entire car leaving you to clean up after him. Just saying, leave the daddy's money diesel truck alone. I come from that world and most of them think very lowly of tuner/import cars. Plus if he, or you, knew anything about blow off valves, you both would know that it's nothing more than an attention grabber unless you're running 35 psi and 8 second 1/4 miles.
 
I think I may have a solution to your misfire, or more specifically, a reason as to why you are experiencing a misfire in the fashion you. You mentioned that you have a 6 bolt in the 2G you just picked up, I just happen to stumble onto a discussion about the 10K Pot Mod and found an excerpt that might be of some use - ***Credit to SPOOLIGAN***

"Many of us 2G guys like to put a 1G CAS in our 2G’s. Whether it be due to the fact that the 1G CAS is adjustable or for the simplicity of replacing the CAS. Especially the 2Ga guys that don’t have a CAS on the head at all.
This can be done, but I can pretty much guarantee you will be scratching your head after a while of driving like this.
With the 1G CAS on a 2G, you COULD have a random misfire issue. While cruising, you will get this misfire. It will feel like you are on 3 cylinders. To remedy this, you need to prevent the ECU from checking for random misfires.
This is a list of criteria that your ECU needs to see in order to not scan for misfires.
  • 300+ seconds of steady state RPM less than 80% throttle position
  • Engine coolant temperature -10C or higher
  • Intake air temperature -10C or higher
  • Barometric pressure greater than 76 kPa
So, if we can get one of these values outside of the criteria, the ECU won’t check for misfires.
Logically, the barometric pressure is really the only one from this list that can be altered without creating more problems.
The fix? The 10K Potentiometer Mod (10K Pot Mod). The Potentiometer is just a volume control knob and can be purchased at Radio Shack for just a few bucks.
You wire the Potentiometer into your barometric pressure sensor wire in your ECU harness. With the potentiometer turned up, it will change the resistance of the wire thus tricking your ECU into thinking you are on Mt. Everest. So, the ECU will not scan for any misfires.
The Pot Mod will generally lean the car out slightly. Which means you MAY feel a performance increase (if I did, it wasn’t much)."

This is something you should look into because I think this is the problem you're running into
 
I think I may have a solution to your misfire, or more specifically, a reason as to why you are experiencing a misfire in the fashion you. You mentioned that you have a 6 bolt in the 2G you just picked up, I just happen to stumble onto a discussion about the 10K Pot Mod and found an excerpt that might be of some use - ***Credit to SPOOLIGAN***

"Many of us 2G guys like to put a 1G CAS in our 2G’s. Whether it be due to the fact that the 1G CAS is adjustable or for the simplicity of replacing the CAS. Especially the 2Ga guys that don’t have a CAS on the head at all.
This can be done, but I can pretty much guarantee you will be scratching your head after a while of driving like this.
With the 1G CAS on a 2G, you COULD have a random misfire issue. While cruising, you will get this misfire. It will feel like you are on 3 cylinders. To remedy this, you need to prevent the ECU from checking for random misfires.
This is a list of criteria that your ECU needs to see in order to not scan for misfires.
  • 300+ seconds of steady state RPM less than 80% throttle position
  • Engine coolant temperature -10C or higher
  • Intake air temperature -10C or higher
  • Barometric pressure greater than 76 kPa
So, if we can get one of these values outside of the criteria, the ECU won’t check for misfires.
Logically, the barometric pressure is really the only one from this list that can be altered without creating more problems.
The fix? The 10K Potentiometer Mod (10K Pot Mod). The Potentiometer is just a volume control knob and can be purchased at Radio Shack for just a few bucks.
You wire the Potentiometer into your barometric pressure sensor wire in your ECU harness. With the potentiometer turned up, it will change the resistance of the wire thus tricking your ECU into thinking you are on Mt. Everest. So, the ECU will not scan for any misfires.
The Pot Mod will generally lean the car out slightly. Which means you MAY feel a performance increase (if I did, it wasn’t much)."

This is something you should look into because I think this is the problem you're running into

Hmm. Never heard of that, that is possible because as mentioned before it happens after about 1/2 an hour of driving.

I have a new problem, my coolant doesn't like to stay in my cooling system and instead go straight into my overflow. This had happened 2 times now,

The thermostat has been taken out, because I thought that was the issue. So it has direct flow to the rest of the engine (had it overheat 10 minutes out of town, turned into a 40 minute drive due to no insurance at the moment)

But now, I'm kind of thinking something else is wrong (obviously) so for you other experienced 4G63er's out there, how the hell do I fix this?
 
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