The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

1G No Compression and no start :(

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Blkapache01

Proven Member
76
6
Mar 28, 2017
Birmingham, Alabama
Hey folks,

I'm a new member and I need some help with my baby. I have a 91 Eagle Talon, 2.0 16V, DOHC 5spd trans and here's my issue:
Been sitting in my garage for the past several years after I moved. I put in a new clutch,
cleaned the fuel tank, put in a new fuel pump, starter, thermostat, put in a new timing belt
and water pump just to be safe and got her cranked. Took it for a drive on the interstate and
came home fine. A few weeks later, decided to clean my injectors and go for another drive.
This time, it broke down on me about a mile from the house. Towed it back and did a compression
test. Here were my results: Cyl 1 29 psi
Cyl 2 28 psi
Cyl 3 32 psi
Cyl 4 59 psi
We took off the engine and replaced the piston rings, connecting bearings and head gasket with
brand new ones...still not cranking. The belt is moving but still no compression to make it turn
over and start. Can anyone help me with this, please? I'd like to get her back on the road this
summer. Thanks in advance.
 
Hey folks,

I'm a new member and I need some help with my baby. I have a 91 Eagle Talon, 2.0 16V, DOHC 5spd trans and here's my issue:
Been sitting in my garage for the past several years after I moved. I put in a new clutch,
cleaned the fuel tank, put in a new fuel pump, starter, thermostat, put in a new timing belt
and water pump just to be safe and got her cranked. Took it for a drive on the interstate and
came home fine. A few weeks later, decided to clean my injectors and go for another drive.
This time, it broke down on me about a mile from the house. Towed it back and did a compression
test. Here were my results: Cyl 1 29 psi
Cyl 2 28 psi
Cyl 3 32 psi
Cyl 4 59 psi
We took off the engine and replaced the piston rings, connecting bearings and head gasket with
brand new ones...still not cranking. The belt is moving but still no compression to make it turn
over and start. Can anyone help me with this, please? I'd like to get her back on the road this
summer. Thanks in advance.
There is alot of information required to properly diagnose what is actually wrong. Based on your compression numbers I would say that it isnt timing related. You either have issues with your valves sealing properly or your ring job didnt go as planned. What type of rebuild did you do. Did you hone the block? Have the head machined?
 
There is alot of information required to properly diagnose what is actually wrong. Based on your compression numbers I would say that it isnt timing related. You either have issues with your valves sealing properly or your ring job didnt go as planned. What type of rebuild did you do. Did you hone the block? Have the head machined?

No, I actually didn't hone it. I was surprised the block was AMAZINGLY clean and smooth. I didn't get the head machined, though. Replaced the head gasket (even though it still looked good) and piston rings as well as the connecting rod bearings.
 
Honing a block puts a specific cross hatch pattern in the bores and helps the rings seal could be some of the problem also did you check the bore size to find out if you have the correct ring size or no egg shape to cylinders? cant really check that by eye so what kind of oil did you put in it after the rings were installed could be another factor leading to engine failure.
 
Do a leakdown test.

Check for bubbles in the coolant. If there are any, you have a blown headgasket.
Listen by the throttle body. Any air coming from there would hint at bent intake valves
Air coming from the exhaust manifold would be exhaust valves
Air coming from the oil cap hole, dipstick tube, or PCV valve would mean your rings did not seat properly.
 
Honing a block puts a specific cross hatch pattern in the bores and helps the rings seal could be some of the problem also did you check the bore size to find out if you have the correct ring size or no egg shape to cylinders? cant really check that by eye so what kind of oil did you put in it after the rings were installed could be another factor leading to engine failure.
See, this is why I joined this site. I knew that you guys would have some great info. I have no idea why my mechanic didn't know that...but he's been good about working with me. As far as the oil used, Valvoline 10w 40
 
Do a leakdown test.

Check for bubbles in the coolant. If there are any, you have a blown headgasket.
Listen by the throttle body. Any air coming from there would hint at bent intake valves
Air coming from the exhaust manifold would be exhaust valves
Air coming from the oil cap hole, dipstick tube, or PCV valve would mean your rings did not seat properly.
The valves LOOKED good.....but maybe they're not seating as suggested. Looks like I'll have to take it back off to verify. :(
 
The valves LOOKED good.....but maybe they're not seating as suggested. Looks like I'll have to take it back off to verify. :(

I would do the leakdown test first as I stated. It will tell you exactly what you need to know.

Also the cross hatch not being put in is a huge issue. Piston rings will not seat without it.

More than likely you need to pull it all back apart and send it to a machine shop. The block, head, and crank all need to go the machine shop. All new gaskets, bearings, rings etc. Everything needs gapped properly and clearences need checked. You need new head studs if you reused the stock head bolts. They are TTY so they are not reusable.

A lot of reasearch goes into rebuilding an engine. All the information you need is here. Its just a matter of searching and applying it.
 
i feel that the head is most likely sealed i have put loads of motors back together like that, most were not under boost though. my sugestion would be the same as jakk220 but when all is said and done the oil you use for break in on metal to metal parts is a specific type its more of a big deal with flat tappet lifter type cam break in which we don't have but i like to use oils with zinc additive to help the break in process on any metal to metal in motor parts when replaced and i have had allot of luck doing that over the years. put together and drive it like you stole it... well usually have to break in the clutch first though:sneaky:
 
i feel that the head is most likely sealed i have put loads of motors back together like that, most were not under boost though. my sugestion would be the same as jakk220 but when all is said and done the oil you use for break in on metal to metal parts is a specific type its more of a big deal with flat tappet lifter type cam break in which we don't have but i like to use oils with zinc additive to help the break in process on any metal to metal in motor parts when replaced and i have had allot of luck doing that over the years. put together and drive it like you stole it... well usually have to break in the clutch first though:sneaky:
Did I read it correctly..... you didn't , hone the block? If you didn't your new rings will not seal properly at all. Your cylinders can be out of round..... so many possibilities
 
Ok, so I just talked to him today. He told me he honed the block as well as made sure that it was re-timed. My guess now is that the valves need to be re-seated. Sitting that long in my garage....I remember cleaning out a lot of gunk in the engine block when I flushed the engine installing the new water pump and cleaning out the gas tank. I suppose it's not a far-fetched possibility that the valves needed to be cleaned/re-seated after all that time too.
 
Ok, so I just talked to him today. He told me he honed the block as well as made sure that it was re-timed. My guess now is that the valves need to be re-seated. Sitting that long in my garage....I remember cleaning out a lot of gunk in the engine block when I flushed the engine installing the new water pump and cleaning out the gas tank. I suppose it's not a far-fetched possibility that the valves needed to be cleaned/re-seated after all that time too.
It sounds like you are unaware of what may or may not have occurred.....

Unless your "mechanic" happens to also be a machinist with the proportional tools. Then you are not having this work done correctly, or possible at all.

You cannot gauge the condition of a valve's sealing properties by eye sight alone.

Your head should of been pressure tested or had the chambers full with liquid and allowed to sit overnight.

Then once the test came back positive, the block would logically be next.

This is all assuming the HG looked great.

You either toss this, and pick up a replacement block or needed parts .
Or do the work correctly.

I also bring into question your "mechs" abilities as well.
 
Ive noticed several members recently with similar issues. Bolting a used head down without checking the valves or valve seat condition. Having the the cylinder head tested is a very important step in the build process. I think most guys check for flatness and if its within spec just slap the head back on......
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top