Next up I decided I needed an under tray to again help flow. Bought a little scrap cutoff stainless pieces on the cheap and built a quick one in about an hour.








Looks way more flowie to me! Hahhaah.







Now for the ducting. Started with a cardboard template and quickly moved to the stainless. Got a bender at Princess Auto on sale for $40 too. Love a good sale.











Template was daaamn close to the final product.









Coped in the ends around the intercooler and secured it right to the rad itself.





Some holes for the intercooler/bumper bracket in the duct....









And some sweet little foam pieces I coped in around the bracket to seal it up against the ducting...





Used some foil tape to seal it up under the foam seal and around the bracket....

Foam to seal up the bottom of the rad to the intercooler....













Foam to seal up the top of the ducting to the rad....

Fans back in with lots of room to flow all that flowieness...









Full ducting looking gooooooooooOOOOOOOOODDD....







Bumper back in and coped....new 2Gb headlights in as well....






The ducting JUST fits in and behind the headlights. It doesn't look like much but there is a 1 1/8" tall channel in the duct behind the headlight that is about 3" wide by 5" long and seems adequate to flow at least a little airflow.












Final upper intercooler gap. Loooooooooots of space for air to move now....







Shiny new undertray....





Had to lengthen the lower rad hose a little bit....its just angled right to be just above the lower bumper plane. Shouldn't have any issue with draggin at all. Was a bit worried about this part but in the end worked out perfectly. The pics don't do it justice but it really is up and out of the way.

All bolted up, cleaned up, topped up, and started up.












The FINAL results:

HUGE improvement!

My cruising temps were about 108*C and my "20 secs of boosting temps" were a block melting 112-115*. Waaaaaaaay to fcukin hot man. Just sooooooooo hot all the time.

Now I'm at 85-88* cruising and my "boosting like I stole it" for many many many minutes straight.... I didn't see more than 98*. A solid +20*C reduction in cruising temps and NOW I can throw as much WOT as I want at it for as long as I want.

When the fans first came on when I was warming it up, I did the "hand" test with my hand in the opening and it flows a shiiit TOOOON of air now. Before it was anemic compared to now. With your hand up and inside where the opening is up and over the intercooler you can feel the majority of the air going up and over it. If I had to throw a dart at a number I would say 60-70% of the air is moving up and around it with the fans on. At speed who know, but I'd imagine similar.

I was also worried that it would be too far the other way with flow and the intercooler either would be still blocking too much and coolant temps would be too high (which proved to be false thankfully) or it would open it up too much and IAT would start to climb.

Upon testing the coolant temps were very nice now and after many many minutes straight of boosting it around my IAT never rose higher than 28*C. Outside temps were ~22*C so I'd hazard to say the opening is just perfectly sized.

I might have to take note from this and build my own cooling panel for mine. Great job!

Nice work!

AdR said:

I might have to take note from this and build my own cooling panel for mine. Great job!

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familyMAN said:

Nice work!

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Thanks!

Nice job!

Hood vent addition with ducting makes it work even better I found and keeps temps under hood Cool. Which is another plus plus. The ducting is now creating more pressure under the hood. With my ducting and the hood vent the cruising temps are very consistent nice and cool in 90F plus degrees at idle.I can feel the fans pulling the air through the hood vent also as a result. You will be surprised how much heat gets released especially under boost. A must if you plan on road racing your car.

Clayfmbtwn4124 said:

Nice job!

Click to expand...

Thank you.

ceedawg said:

Hood vent addition with ducting makes it work even better I found and keeps temps under hood Cool. Which is another plus plus. The ducting is now creating more pressure under the hood. With my ducting and the hood vent the cruising temps are very consistent nice and cool in 90F plus degrees at idle.I can feel the fans pulling the air through the hood vent also as a result. You will be surprised how much heat gets released especially under boost. A must if you plan on road racing your car.

Click to expand...

Hood vents are my immediate next step

All that air in needs a way out now.

kmetiuk said:

Thank you.



Hood vents are my immediate next step

All that air in needs a way out now.

Click to expand...

Trust me makes a nice difference cooling wise and with the pressure leaving under the hood. Should also help with some stability at high speeds and handling because of the pressure differential.

ceedawg said:

Trust me makes a nice difference cooling wise and with the pressure leaving under the hood. Should also help with some stability at high speeds and handling because of the pressure differential.

Click to expand...

Totally agree. I have the ducts already just need to install them. I also want to get one more and make a small air box for the air filter so that it gets the coolest air it can.....get those IAT's down even more.

I'm anxious to see you accomplish that part as that is something I need to do as well. However I will say my IATs have dropped considerably after doing the ducting and hood vent. So I will keep up with your progress so please continue with the posts and pics.

I also like the idea of the aluminum thermal tape,I used black racing tape.


PS meant to tell you great idea with the undertray as I did that too but with polyurethane. The undertray I feel makes the whole ducting idea work at its best. Props to you on adding that as well.

ceedawg said:

I'm anxious to see you accomplish that part as that is something I need to do as well. However I will say my IATs have dropped considerably after doing the ducting and hood vent. So I will keep up with your progress so please continue with the posts and pics.

I also like the idea of the aluminum thermal tape,I used black racing tape.


PS meant to tell you great idea with the undertray as I did that too but with polyurethane. The undertray I feel makes the whole ducting idea work at its best. Props to you on adding that as well.

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I'm very happy with the results as well. Soooo nice and cool now both IAT's and coolant temps.

The foil tape is awesome to work with. I went a little overborad b/c its so easy hahaha.

I totally agree on the undertray. Mos def req'd to force that air up and into the front. I was gonna do a proper splitter (bought all the parts) but I got the temps down to a safe area finally so I'm moving forward with my motor build now instead. I also have a set of 96 "twisty" side skirts as well as a my current 2Gb talon rear bumper that I want to do an complete undertray from tip to tail to really really get that air flow right at the front and under the car. We'll see how long it takes for engine parts to show up as I'll be doing the hood vents while waiting and may get around to the undertray depending on how long shipping takes. Idle hands and all.

Or put on an Evo carbon fiber style hood with the vents in it already.few guys here have that style hood. I went a different route and placed a RRE hood vent in my stock hood. Semi pain in the arse to do but it works lovely. I think I followed a thread Snowboarder started on how he installed the same vent.

I noticed after reading the whole thread that you had problems tuning the high z 1650's I thought that was odd. Think mines came with a resistor box if I remember right. Car idles like a charm according to my tuner who has the car right now. Will be running E85 since the flex fuel stuff has been added. Don't have to worry about these 1650s rusting up inside like the 2150s when the car sits for long times. So I was surprised , did you order yours with the resistor box when you installed them? I heard that's a must with the high z's

ceedawg said:

Or put on an Evo carbon fiber style hood with the vents in it already.few guys here have that style hood. I went a different route and placed a RRE hood vent in my stock hood. Semi pain in the arse to do but it works lovely. I think I followed a thread Snomboarder started on how he installed the same vent.

I noticed after reading the whole thread that you had problems tuning the high z 1650's I thought that was odd. Think mines came with a resistor box if I remember right. Car lidles like a charm according to my tuner who has the car right now. Will be running E85 since the flex fuel stuff has been added. Don't have to worry about these 1650s rusting up inside like the 2150s when the car sits for long times. So I was surprised , did you order yours with the resistor box when you installed them? I heard that's a must with the high z's

Click to expand...

I thought about the EVO style hood and it came down to style in the end. In my humble opinion, and no disrespect to others, I don't like how mush "thicker" the front end looks with that hood. To me when looking at the car from the side or from the front and down low....it looked like the vents req'd the hood to have a larger cross section which I didn't like. I like the look of the stock hood and how its like hug the motor...plus I didn't want to get rid of the stock "turbo hump". To me that one bit is what gives the DSM the majority of its style and is kind of the DSM calling card so I want to keep it.

Past all the style, the other main actual consideration was the question: "How many vents should I add and will I want/need to add more/move them later?". The answer was "who the fcuk knows..." hahaha. So I know I will add or move/mod these vents and I also have 2 extra stock hoods from parts cars. B/c of that I decided I would do a bespoke hood that will have 1 vent that very nearly "plugs" into my rad to suck all that hot air out, another vent to relieve under hood pressure/temps, and a final inlet vent for the air filter to sip some cool air from outside the engine bay.


The 1650's....I had the low-Z ones and your just supposed to use the stocker resistor pack I thought. I had major issues b/c of that nonlinear portion on the graph. I could tune them for a decent idle but there was always a hiccup anywhere in the 2000-4000 RPM range (depending on where I stomped on er). B/c my goals were always to push the HE351VE as far as it would go I was worried that hiccup would hurt something eventually.

When I did get my hi-z 2150's I did not get a resistor box either and I thought you were supposed to delete the OEM box to install (which I did). I got my FIC injector driver box almost the same time as my 2150's but I did test the driver with the 1650's and it did help with that nonlinear "hiccup" but did not get rid of it entirely..... which was why I order my 2150's immediately.

@ceedawg what box did you get with your hi-z's?

You don't need a "box" with the FIC 1650 high-z injectors. You actually need to eliminate a box to run them; the stock resistor box to be exact.

GST with PSI said:

You don't need a "box" with the FIC 1650 high-z injectors. You actually need to eliminate a box to run them; the stock resistor box to be exact.

Click to expand...

That's kinda what I thought too.... @ceedawg what box are you refering too?

GST with PSI said:

You don't need a "box" with the FIC 1650 high-z injectors. You actually need to eliminate a box to run them; the stock resistor box to be exact.

Click to expand...

Yes GSt is 100% correct .I purchased a resistor pack delete 25.00 from fic

Got the rest of my measuring tools today. I am now ready to tear the motor down....which begins as soon as I'm caffeinated here. So. fcuking. pumped.

Also picked up an old school (1975) valve hand lathe (for 90% off) and some Neway valve seat cutters. I did a LOT of research on doing your own valve job and TBH I don't think its rocket surgery so I am going to try and do a FULL DIY valve job. From what I have read on the vintage bike, vintage car, motorcross, and sledding/ATV forums....there are a lot of folks out there who have be doing their valves themselves for decades. While I was looking into the DIY valve job what sold me on it was the ability to control my seat width and also the back cut on the valve. From what I could gather, most machine shops have a "3 angle" cutter that is setup already so if you wanted a custom valve seat width they could do it but $$$. Since it is (apparently) quite common to do your own valves and I get better control of the outcome I said fcuk it lets give it a go.

While I was on the aforementioned forums, I stumbled across a thread where they were talking about using a cylinder hone stone (lisle 150000 style) for DIY honing and a several guys were boring over 0.020. Looking into it more, I found it again quite common in the vintage car/bike/sled circles. I'm skeptical of how well it will turn out but for the prices of the hone and 5 sets of stones @ $190 I again said fcuk it lets give it a go. I have the tools to measure it all in the end so we'll see how that turns out.

Can you bottle up and sell some of your ambition? because you're kinda making me feel lazy. Amazing work man. Very Impressed

19gsx91 said:

Can you bottle up and sell some of your ambition? because you're kinda making me feel lazy. Amazing work man. Very Impressed

Click to expand...

It would be a good drink, a smooth drink, definitely a hoppy flavor. Hahaha.

Ya, it might be over ambitious....I'm skeptical if the valves or cylinder honing will work out but I'm willing to fail at it to see what happens. The old dogs on the vintage forums get good results but they have many many more miles in life than me so we'll see.

I have been ghosting my build journal bc of working so hard. Sorry @Ludachris, I read the "keep the knowledge on the forums and off Facebook" post you did so ill give a quick update. I have another 1000 photos of my engine build, but it takes considerable time to put together. So I'll do a quickie right now instead.

I did end up using the cylinder hone to bore out the cylinders. It worked ok for bringing the bore out to 85.5mm, but it ruined the eccentricity. I got a lot of blow by and was burning oil within 500 miles. I parked it and reevaluated what I was doing. I pushed the motor to 33psi and it was pushing out a lot of air into the catch can so I needed to stop and fix that bc I'm leaving a lot on the table.

I will admit I am a bit arrogant in what I think I can do sometimes. Arrogance or over confidence is how I blindly start these projects without worrying about what can be done or what should be done and instead just knowing I will get there in the end. Often it works fine, but not this time. The hone is not meant to bore out 20 thou, it's meant to remove machine marks, give a uniform bore, and leave a nice crosshatch for oil. 1-2 thou is the most I will hone out next time. Next time being within the next month or so. I have a new block already and all the gaskets and rings and parts to do it right this time.


NOW because of my arrogance or over confidence, I want to bore it myself and in order to do that I need a mill. I went overkill. Waaaaaay overkill. I bought a Haas VF3 CNC Mill. It weighs 13,000 lbs and it's spindle is 15hp. It's a 3 phase industrial machine. It's a fcuking serious machine. It didn't even fit in my garage... so I lifted up the whole building 39" permanently. I did it solo in a single 23hr work day. I trenched in a new electrical trunk line from the house to get the 100Amps split phase I needed....plus the gas line to keep it warm. I've almost got the last little bits of my City Permit finished off too now. I'm stupid over confident sometimes. But it's done and buttoned up and has been holding a steady 19*C over the whole - 30*C winter. Like I said, bc of my arrogance or over confidence I know I will get alot of these project over the finish line in the end. Maybe I'm crazy, I dunno Hahahah.


I've been busy moving that machine and repairing it as it was neglected (gotta helluva deal on it). It took some time to get the utils figured too. I then spent some time figuring my Haas out and teaching myself to machine as I have never touched a mill at all untill I turned on my Haas on for the first time in Dec 18. Since then I have been figuring out this "machining thing" for the last 3 months by playing with aluminum and stainless 304. I have practiced facing manifolds, learning various metrology techniques, and just started practicing cylinder boring on a spare 7 bolt block I had. I've done this all alone in a vacuum with nothing but youtube to guide me. The rigidity of my Haas and the experience I have started to gain will net me the exact motor I need now. The first bore I did was incredibly straight and smooth. I'm practicing honing it out over the next week or so. I know I will make it over the finish line.



As I am about to start my new block build, I'm aware in the shift from forums to other platforms. Facebook is not my thing, but it has its uses. I don't post my builds there bc it's full of trolls. I keep all that stuff for Tunerz. I haven't been to Tuners since I left the last post on this thread. I honestly can't believe how time has flown by. In an effort to keep my own project history intact and relevant I have also started my own YouTube Channel called LucasIsBusy. I haven't put any DSM stuff on it yet, this block will be the first car project on it. However, I have put the building lift and the Haas and the 3 phase rotary converter build on it as I quickly try and get comfortable in front of the camera. I will say I am mos def cringy becuase I'm over compensating due to my discomfort of being on camera. It will get better I promise.


I also wanted to be very clear about this next part, even though I have added a channel to my DSM documentation workflow, I will never ever ever abandon DSMTunerz. I have learned so much here and will continue to pour my ever increasing knowledge back into this site for as long as it exists. You all have given me so much over the years, that it's just not in me to take...I also must give. My build thread will continue to grow forever, it just takes a long time to format and sequence the 1000+ photos into a readable format.


That's enough for now. I will be posting my "not so good" block build in this thread now that I have come clean about being a dumb ass with the hone. I think I may have been avoiding this site (and the update here TBH) bc @bastarddsm has trolled me over and over and over that I know this block hone disaster I created will be lorded over me. He has said it in those words in fact. But fcuk it, we here now. Thanks again DSMTuners, I would not be where I am now with out the vast amount of knowledge contained in this site. Thank you @Ludachris for continuing to make this site a beast. I'm sure it is not easy sometimes.

This is the starting video on my quest for 800 hp. I go through a lot in this one so get a snack first. I am gonna cross post on the engine build sub for posterity, but also here b/c my build thread is the master list of what I have done. I didn't want this to get buried in that so if its not allowed mods, plz lemme know and I will refrain next time.

This video goes through my plan for the block, why I need it to spin to 10,000 RPM, how I fcuked up the last block being an idiot, my plan for the next 2 weeks, in then setup the 4G63 in my mill, I indicate in the bores, I cut 2 bores on my pracitice 7 block motor, and then final indicating or measuring of the bores to show how damn straight my HAAS CNC VF3 mill can get it.

Also, I recently purchased a 1995 Haas VF3 Mill weighing 13,000 lbs, shipped it across country site unseen, made a few repairs, and I am now reaping that fruit. Slanging chips like theres no tomorrow. It takes 3 phase power so I installed a 100 amp sub panel, trench in the trunk line and gas, build my own rotary converter and fire it up with no issues. The mill didnt fit in the building when it got here ( i knew that ahead of time) so i raised the building 39" permanently by myself over a single 23 hr work day ( i slept for 2 days straight after it was lifted). I am literally moving mountains to make my dreams happen.


Everything going forward on my channel is DSM focused in the short term. I am gaining about 10% in subscribers on my channel every day but would love to start packing in the peeps who like DSM's.