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A front cross member to mount the 2g engine/trans into a 1g would be nice (front motor mount is on the transmission for a 2g rather than the block like the 1g). I'm currently having to make my own but I would happily buy a product if it were available.
 
A front cross member to mount the 2g engine/trans into a 1g would be nice (front motor mount is on the transmission for a 2g rather than the block like the 1g). I'm currently having to make my own but I would happily buy a product if it were available.
I'd be happy to build/offer that. Only problem is that I'd need a 1G car with a 2G trans at my shop to position the roll stop on the crossmember. Too bad you weren't local to me.
 
Also having an option of a bushing would be nice. Heim joints are horrible for street driven/daily drivers. They wear out and get sloppy incredibility fast.
I can look into a bushing option. Although I feel that somewhat defeats a large potion of the benefits of the aftermarket arm set.

Regarding heims; it completely depends on which heim. They are all far from being equal to each other. Just like a Toyota Corolla isn't the best platform for Baja racing, carbon steel economy heims aren't the best for control arms, 4-links, and wheelie bars. It's all about picking the right part for the job.
 
I assume it has a lot to do with his specific ride height and available suspension travel.

While my car is lower than most 1G DSM's, the stock arms and the Ingall's arms BOTH have the bend for a reason. When my arms were straight they made contact with the unibody right where the factory arm bend is located. If your measure your suspension travel, and then remove both struts and use a jack to cycle the suspension you will see if the arms will hit at full compression. Mine did but that could be a function of the Ohlin's travel.

Aside from this, those extrusions look like they are very strong so if you can get away with your suspension no travelling as far as mine does this looks like the best offering out there!

I would also be interested in a rear tubular subframe. Been wishing someone would make a road course worthy setup for quite some time. Road race specific front tubular arms that retain sway bar mounts and perhaps some caster adjustability would be equally amazing. Very excited to see what you come up with is an understatement.
 
I would absolutely be in for a rear subframe. I've been looking for one for a while to match my front. Options for the 3kgt diff are awesome, but your mention of modifying the hubs/trailing arms makes me want it x10 more. Me and the guy that made my front subframe tossed ideas around on how to get rid of the cast iron arms, but never came up with anything. If I'm going to go tubular in the rear, I want to go all out.. not build around the stock heavy arms. Please keep us updated!
 
I'm down for everything including the sub-frame! We will talk for sure!
 
Paul,

Since you liked it, I know that you saw my post on the AFCO version of the control arms and I am glad to hear that you will be offering a superior option for those that want to do this modification. As for the low price or quality, I have no issues paying for the quality of your products. Thank you for offering a competitively priced product and continuing to produce parts that would otherwise vanish.

Robert
 
:hellyeah::hellyeah:Completely epic thread Paul, I will be waiting patiently for the rear sub frame with sway bar option, and the control arms " dont forget to offer the dust boots for the heim joints" as they help extend the life of the joints :thumb:, already have the toe eliminators. :applause::applause::applause:
 
I would be interested in the control arms (bent version), and possibly a rear tubular subframe if it means saving weight and added rigidity. My oldish car is getting a little rusty and could use a "reboot" with some quality parts. I would also be very interested in roadrace-oriented front control arms that keep sway bar mounts and perhaps have additional adjustability. BTW, I know that this is not what is being discussed here; but any chance you have future plans on making front fender braces like the 2g guys have? Thanks for support sir!
 
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I have been looking for a 1G harness bar for a while now and apparently nobody makes them. That would be another good investment since some of the seatbelts don't reach to the factory mounting brackets in the backseat thanks for all your hard work and dedication to the DSM forums.
 
can you make me a deal if I buy 2 of both items?

Meaning 2 sets of rear lca's and 2 sets of rear active toe eliminators.
Probably, but too early to tell. It all depends on how aggressively this tuff gets priced and I haven't got that far yet. I'm waiting on a Moog shipment now and then I'll get the UCA's on 3 cars for testing.

Also working on the subframe jig now.
 
:hellyeah::hellyeah:Completely epic thread Paul, I will be waiting patiently for the rear sub frame with sway bar option, and the control arms " dont forget to offer the dust boots for the heim joints" as they help extend the life of the joints :thumb:, already have the toe eliminators. :applause::applause::applause:
+1 on heim seals, aka dust covers. I use them and they keep out the rain and grit.

I had straight upper arms on my car for 3 years with no problems, plenty of clearance. It was set up fairly stiff with moderate drop tho.
 
I got a handful of rear UCA's and LCA's assembled. I'd like to get these on 3 cars for testing and feedback. I have two candidates already and I'm looking for a third or forth. If you're interested, message me. I'd be offering these at a one-time discount for testers.

Requirements:

1) I'd need you to install them and drive on them asap. No jackstand ballers. :) I'm looking for feedback as soon as possible. And the more usage, the better.
2) I'd like some installed pics.
3) Keep in touch with me on how they fit and perform. I'd need honest feedback and/or constructive criticism.

I have one set of UCA's and one set of LCA's. These particular LCA's do not have provisions for a sway bar attachment, so if you're a drag guy looking to shed some weight and ditch the rear sway bar, this is for you. Ideally, I'd like to find one car to get both sets on, but if two separate people want to split them up, that's fine with me.

I'm finishing up the aluminum standoffs this weekend and I'll be ready to ship on Monday.

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I have my rear subframe out and apart for some POR15. It's ready to go back together less some black paint. I'd be willing to test both but I just can't do a heim. Is your design set in stone? I prefer a bushing set up (like ingalls control arms) or at very least a johnny joint as my car isn't race only.
 
I have my rear subframe out and apart for some POR15. It's ready to go back together less some black paint. I'd be willing to test both but I just can't do a heim. Is your design set in stone? I prefer a bushing set up (like ingalls control arms) or at very least a johnny joint as my car isn't race only.
At this time, I'm only using heims. I'm not sure if I'll have a bushing option down the road or not. Personally, I don't have any reservations about running heims (especially higher end ones) on a street application.

Johnny joints are doable, but they cost quite a bit more than a nice 4130 heim, so the price would go way up.
 
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At this time, I'm only using heims. I'm not sure if I'll have a bushing option down the road or not. Personally, I don't have any reservations about running heims (especially higher end ones) on a street application.

Johnny joints are doable, but they cost quite a bit more than a nice 4130 heim, so the price would go way up.
Understood. They're looking really nice.
 
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