While doing some street tuning near where I live, a T-fitting for my turbo oil feed/oil pressure gauge cracked. The oil dummy light turned on so I drove it home (stupid move I know, but I was only a few blocks away). Sent my 68hta to Justin after finding some in and out shaft play. His findings were, "It's 100% fixable...honestly it doesn't even look like it had any oil starvation as there's no bearing transfer at all on the shaft or housing, just appears the thrust plate failed because they're not using upgraded thrust hardware on these turbos when they're built."

Installed everything back on and did a leakdown and compression test last night after driving the car around to warm it up. The photos below show my numbers along with my piston info. I rebuilt the motor (6 bolt in a 2g) less than a thousand miles ago.

What do you guys think? Do I need to pull the motor, rehone, and install new rings or is there something else going on? From what I've read those leakdown numbers are really bad, but the compression looks good. One thing to note though, when I did the compression test is it took many cranks (around 30/ea. cylinder) for the needle to finally stop at 170psi.

Did you try to find out where it was leaking to during the leak down test? Like opening the rad cap and seeing if there were bubbles in the coolant or opening the oil cap, dipstick tube, or PCV valve and listening for air?

Yeah, prior to installing the turbo I did a cold leakdown test and some air was coming from the oil cap so I took the valve cover off and it seemed to be coming from the crankcase, but it was hard to tell exactly. Pretty sure it wasn't from the valves seats though.

When I did the test last night I forgot to check the oil cap , but I did hear hissing from the dipstick. Just wanted to get a quick run down of the numbers.

Are you sure the leakdown tester is functioning properly?

Is there a way to confirm that it is operating correctly? It's a Harbor Freight unit.

I like the compression numbers. Pretty sure the leakdown is best performed warm tho.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

I like the compression numbers. Pretty sure the leakdown is best performed warm tho.

Click to expand...

The numbers posted the photo were from a warm leakdown test. Sorry if I caused any confusion...

My standard number of revolutions for a compression test is 6. If you had to crank it 30 times to get a solid number then I wouldn't trust those compression numbers.

SOADweskey said:

My standard number of revolutions for a compression test is 6. If you had to crank it 30 times to get a solid number then I wouldn't trust those compression numbers.

Click to expand...

Any ideas as to why it would still give me a consistant 170 all across though?

That I'm not sure of, have you ever seen that tester show higher than 170? Total shot in the dark but that could be the highest your gauge will read. If yours is from harbor freight like mine then it wouldn't be unheard of for it to act strange.

I mean that shouldn't matter because a properly functioning tester won't keep going up the longer you crank it. But it does seem really weird to me that it took that long to stabilize.

Hmm, not sure if its ever read higher than 170.. I had a harbor freight one but it crapped out on me. so I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006V2BRS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No way those leakdown numbers are real if it was done correctly. I recommend removing the cams and repeating the leakdown.

Noticed that the car is burning some oil on WOT drives.